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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2002 Spyder GS won't start (cranks but won't kick over, no spark on coil for 1 & 4)

Hi all,
I'm new to posting on here so I apologize in advance if I do something wrong. I'm not sure what else to do though. I have a 2002 Eclipse Spyder GS 2.4L 5 speed manual, 202K miles. Bought it early last April so I don't know everything about the car yet, but I've learned a bit. Engine light came on shortly after buying it, which I found out from Advance Auto Parts that it is an EGR valve code.
What happened was my wife took my car to the store (first mistake I know lol). Less than 5 minutes driving, it just died on her after making a right turn and wouldn't start back up. It cranks (although sounds just a little slower than normal), but won't kick over. I've since dragged it back to my house so it isn't stuck on a street. I've been doing a TON of searching on Google, this site, everywhere I can think of. Even brought it up to a local car group on Facebook. But I can't seem to find a solid answer, so I wanted to share this to see if anyone ran into the same problem or has any advice or input. Again, if there is a nearly identical post already on here, I apologize. Here's what I've checked so far.

- Sprayed starting fluid directly into intake, didn't start. I'm assuming this rules out fuel delivery as the main problem.
- Checked all fuses related to engine and ignition, all look good.
- Looked at timing belt (without completely removing cover, just unbolted, pulled it back a bit, and looked/touched). Looks fairly new and seems to be tight with not much slack.
- Used spark tester to test plugs and coils. If looking at engine from the front, coil pack on the left (2 and 3) had spark everywhere. Coil on right (1 and 4) had nothing at all.
- Got all excited that I found the issue, so I replaced the 1&4 coil with a new one. No spark. Got really bummed.
- Tested voltage in a few places with multimeter, but I'm no pro so I could have checked wrong places or missed something.

Considering I'm no mechanic (although I can do a little), I didn't check the crank sensor, cam sensor, or the TB to make sure it's TDC since I need to remove some things that I'm a bit nervous about, particularly belts. I don't want to do more damage at this point. What I've seen so far is that it could be a bad wire to the coil, bad ECM (or ECU? not sure of correct term), crank sensor, cam sensor, or timing belt jumped time. Is there anything else fairly simple I can fix before I drag it down to my mechanic to check out? And if you've been through this and took it to a mechanic, can you give me an idea of what the problem was and how much it ran you for the repair? I'm worried that I'll be paying out the rear for this to be fixed so I was hoping maybe there is something simple that could be the cause. I did pay less than $2K for the car so I expected some repairs to be needed, but not like this! Any advice or feedback would be GREATLY appreciated as I get more frustrated by the day from not driving my car and seeing it just sit there!

Thanks in advance!

Shawn
 
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