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Is there a site to go for preformance parts for the 3.5? This discussion has inspired me lol and I don't have the $ or the tools needed for the 6g75 swap
 

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i would look on here for parts for my 3.5... if i had the $$ to buy them.. maybe try galantcenter or galantforum.com .org whatever it is. the 3.5 is popular in galants too so u could find parts there too. i think they got a soecific for sale section could be wrong tho.

let me know what you find cuz im in the same boat as you

or car-part.com is a good place to find factory parts 3.8 motor parts more specifically. its a nationwide junkyard search by model, year and part. youll love it. i found out about it by working @ a body shop couple years ago always getting parts shipped to us.
 

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The 3.8 swap is identical to the 3.5 swap except you need a few 3.5 parts on the 3.8...

What is there to want for performance parts? The only difference is the geometry of the headers. Otherwise everything else is the same.
 

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The 3.8 swap is identical to the 3.5 swap except you need a few 3.5 parts on the 3.8...

Is it really I thought from reading There's way more to it than that like new computer etc.

What is there to want for performance parts? The only difference is the geometry of the headers. Otherwise everything else is the same.
Ok Thanks
 

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Back from Deployment
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I don't now if this will help anyone but it's a write up I did myself to follow when I thought I was doing a 74 swap (did a 75 swap so I didn't use this, but much applies).

This maybe isn't complete and a few steps can be altered to fit individual needs/goals. Some are obviously missing like tune and tranny installation. But it was written with the idea of moving around the car and changing positions as little as possible.

A. Car on ground/Prep
1. Choose location, set e-brake and block wheels
2. Remove CAI
3. Disconnect battery
4. Remove battery and tray
5. Remove mounting brackets
6. Remove hood
7. Disconnect wiring harness
8. Disconnect and tie throttle cable
9. Remove throttle body
10. Remove plenum
11. Disconnect fuel lines and tie off
12. Disconnect shifter cables and tie off
13. Disconnect transmission electrical connections
14. Remove slave cylinder and tie off
15. Remove coolant reservoir
16. Loosen lug nuts

B. Car off ground
1. Remove wheels
2. Drain engine oil
3. Drain transmission oil
4. Drain coolant
5. Loosen and remove axle nuts
6. Reinstall all drain plugs
a. Driver’s Side
1. Remove splash shield
2. Disconnect sway bar end link
3. Remove securing hardware for brake line and ABS cable
4. Remove brake caliper and tie off
5. Disconnect shock absorber
6. Push CV spline through hub
7. Remove CV shaft
b. Passenger Side
1. Remove splash shield
2. Loosen tensioners and remove belts
3. Loosen crank pulley bolt and remove pulley
4. Disconnect end link
5. Remove securing hardware for brake line and ABS cable
6. Remove brake caliper and tie off
7. Disconnect shock absorber
8. Push CV spline through hub
c. Under car
1. Remove accessible o2 sensors
2. Remove Y-pipe
3. Remove CV shaft
4. Remove rear header
5. Remove starter
6. Remove PS pump
7. Remove radiator hoses and radiator
8. Disconnect and remove alternator
9. Remove A/C compressor
10. Disconnect heater hoses

C. Removal
1. Place chains on/around engine/transaxle
2. Take up tension with lift
3. Disconnect front/rear motor mounts
4. Remove crossmember
5. Disconnect and remove passenger side transaxle mount
6. Disconnect and remove driver side motor mount
7. Ensure there are no hoses/wires/connections
8. Remove motor/transaxle

D. Post-removal 6g72
1. Remove distributor
2. Remove valve covers
3. Remove timing covers
4. Remove timing belt
5. Remove valve train
6. Remove camshafts

E. Pre-installation 6g74
1. Install camshafts
2. Install valve train
3. Install valve covers
4. Install timing belt, tension
5. Install distributor
 

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don't know if i missed this or not, but are you using the same thermostat from the 74 or did you swap it? wasn't that the problem for supposed " other" overheating problems?


never mind... re-read everything
 
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Okay, so I really don't understand why my engine is running so hot. Not only does it melt away the windshield washer nozzles, but I noticed the other day the car was struggling to keep the engine cool. It was around 90 degrees that day, driving home from work, and the temperature slowly crept up a little, and stayed there until I came to a rest. Oil temp was 223 degrees, and all the fans were on. I just replaced the radiator last year, and I've had this engine in for 2 years.

In addition to this crap, I'm just starting to throw the p0455, evap emission control system leak, out of the blue. Got a new gas cap, nothing. Tested the solenoid under the hood, works. Vacuum tested the lines, no leaks.

/rant
 

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6G75 Turbo 3G
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Okay, so I really don't understand why my engine is running so hot. Not only does it melt away the windshield washer nozzles, but I noticed the other day the car was struggling to keep the engine cool. It was around 90 degrees that day, driving home from work, and the temperature slowly crept up a little, and stayed there until I came to a rest. Oil temp was 223 degrees, and all the fans were on. I just replaced the radiator last year, and I've had this engine in for 2 years.

In addition to this crap, I'm just starting to throw the p0455, evap emission control system leak, out of the blue. Got a new gas cap, nothing. Tested the solenoid under the hood, works. Vacuum tested the lines, no leaks.

/rant
The bumper is limiting the amount of air flow across your radiator.. I've already tested and confirmed this myself. My coolant temps significantly dropped by opening the bumper to allow more air flow. 210ºf driving stock bumper down to thermostat temperature of 180ºf after cutting bumper. Not saying that you have to, but it's the only way that I KNOW 100% that will knock the temps way down.
I'm sure hood spacers and/or a vented hood would help get the hot air out of the engine bay as well.
 

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Chuck Nasty
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3,855 Posts
i ran a csf dual row radiator dropped temps 10 degrees
 
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The bumper is limiting the amount of air flow across your radiator.. I've already tested and confirmed this myself. My coolant temps significantly dropped by opening the bumper to allow more air flow. 210ºf driving stock bumper down to thermostat temperature of 180ºf after cutting bumper. Not saying that you have to, but it's the only way that I KNOW 100% that will knock the temps way down.
I'm sure hood spacers and/or a vented hood would help get the hot air out of the engine bay as well.
So, right now, I have my front license plate zip tied to the front grill. You think if I remove it, I should see not only lower coolant temps, but lower under the hood temps? I looked up hood spacers, those things look terrible! Maybe I'll adjust the hood bump stops up a little. As it is, I already have poor bumper placement after I hit a deer a while back. :noplease:
 

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running into some engine problems with my 02 Eclipse GT(AT), keeps telling me i have a misfire in cylinder 6, shop told me i mght have a bad piston and might have to do an engine swap, as i'm looking into these different engine types i'm assuming the best swap for my car is the 6G74. or is there a better motor to swap it out with? i searched and found this thread but need to be a little more specific on what i can do in this situation.....also how much does will it end up costing to do the total engine swap like have everything working fine since i see that some ppl have heating issues?
 

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running into some engine problems with my 02 Eclipse GT(AT), keeps telling me i have a misfire in cylinder 6, shop told me i mght have a bad piston and might have to do an engine swap, as i'm looking into these different engine types i'm assuming the best swap for my car is the 6G74. or is there a better motor to swap it out with? i searched and found this thread but need to be a little more specific on what i can do in this situation.....also how much does will it end up costing to do the total engine swap like have everything working fine since i see that some ppl have heating issues?
6g75 is better in my opinion. And around 2k if you do it your self. 800 for engine 300 for tranny. (Rough estimates) and whatever little things you need/want.
 

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Which crank wheel sensor should I use with this swap? Whatever year ECU I have in my car? Car doesn't want to start anymore after having it tuned by Cody. Only turns over. Just put in upgraded SS fuel lines and aeromotive FPR and it's still responding the same way.
 

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The Ghost
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Yes, but what does that matter?
 

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After reading this entire thread I still have a couple questions. 1, is it mandatory to flash the eclipse ecu with the diamante ecu? if so can I just take the diamante ecu or do I have to flash my own. the only thing im confused about here is the ECU.
 
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