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UMADBREH?
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Im new here and would like a little advice. i did look but cant find the answer im looking for. i recently put the 3.8 in my car and got it in and bolted up and tried to start and it was not getting any spark so then i narrowed it down to the distributor. so i pulled the distributor out and put in a 74 distributor that i had laying around and now it gets spark and starts but runs extremely rough and wont stay started unless u hold the throttle open. i have an 01 so my distributor is a 1 pulse and thats what the 74 is also so my question is why do you have to use the 72 distributor if thats the case. i understand it for the 03-05 guys that have 3 pulse distributors but for an 00-02 i dont see why the 74 one cant be used. thanks in advance for any help
Have u flashed/tuned the car?

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Im new here and would like a little advice. i did look but cant find the answer im looking for. i recently put the 3.8 in my car and got it in and bolted up and tried to start and it was not getting any spark so then i narrowed it down to the distributor. so i pulled the distributor out and put in a 74 distributor that i had laying around and now it gets spark and starts but runs extremely rough and wont stay started unless u hold the throttle open. i have an 01 so my distributor is a 1 pulse and thats what the 74 is also so my question is why do you have to use the 72 distributor if thats the case. i understand it for the 03-05 guys that have 3 pulse distributors but for an 00-02 i dont see why the 74 one cant be used. thanks in advance for any help
Depends on the cams you have in the motor. The cam angle sensor reluctor is only one variable. The 6g74 distributor can only be used with 6g74 cams. If you're using 6g72 or 6g75 cams you must use a 6g72 distributor. They are keyed 60 degrees off. If you want to make sure you've installed it right turn the motor to top dead center. Make sure all your timing marks line up and install the distributor such that the rotor points toward 5 o clock. Technically you can't install it wrong but I've seen plenty of people force it.

Also make sure you pay attention to the firing order on the distributor cap. The 6g72 and 6g74 CAPS are interchangeable HOWEVER the 74 cap is numbered in the correct firing order 123456 starting at 5 o clock but the 72 distributor has misplaced tabs to fit into a tighter engine bay and the wires are not in that order.

The CAS reluctors are completely irrelevant to the above. 00-02 ROMs need single pulse, 03-05 need three pulse. Make sure your distributor matches the cams and the reluctor matches the ROM.

So. Get a 6g72 distributor that works and install it properly then follow the wiring labels on the cap. Make sure you put in a single pulse reluctor if it doesn't come with one since you're an 01. You should be good to go then.
 

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ok thank you very much, that was my guess as to why it was running rough and wouldnt stay started. i just wanted to make sure b4 i went and forked out the cash for a brand new distributor when i could have possibly used the 74 one.
 

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Dude. Go to the junk yard and get one for $40. There may be one here in the FS section or post a Wanted to Buy thread in that forum. People sometimes have them laying around just like you had that '74 one laying around. There's a member here by the username of Drunkoffjuice who has a lot of junk yard parts or can get you one next time he's there. If nothing else I'll get you one but I don't know when the next time I'm going is.
 

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Thanks man, I didn't even think about that but I just went down and ordered one yesterday and will hopefully be putting it on tonight and hopefully that is the solution
 

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Like GTmitsu said, have you flashed/tuned the car? I doubt it would run if you didn't, but if it did it wouldn't run right and you could damage it pretty severely.
 

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UMADBREH?
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No it hasn't been tuned yet just trying to make sure I have every thing correct that it will start when time comes


You need a flashed ROM in order for the car to run right at all. That is most likely the issue, not the distributor.
 

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6G75 Turbo 3G
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No it hasn't been tuned yet just trying to make sure I have every thing correct that it will start when time comes
You need a flashed ROM in order for the car to run right at all. That is most likely the issue, not the distributor.
One up there man, you need it flashed before the car will run properly at all. Its not adding fuel right and that's totally screwing it up. The engine wont last at all if you dont get a tactrix cable and get a tune to at least get the air/fuel ratio in the right area
 

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i have everything to get it tuned. i just havent gotten that far yet haha. i just got it in the other day and was just checking to make sure it was getting fuel and spark and then i discovered it wasnt getting spark which i ended up tracing to the distributor which i just installed the new one today. now its just a matter of getting a tune and double checking everything and then im good to go
 

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i have everything to get it tuned. i just havent gotten that far yet haha. i just got it in the other day and was just checking to make sure it was getting fuel and spark and then i discovered it wasnt getting spark which i ended up tracing to the distributor which i just installed the new one today. now its just a matter of getting a tune and double checking everything and then im good to go
That's what I thought :lol:

It's true what they say about there being no good basemap for the 3.8, at least in my experience. What was an awesome, dialed-in tune for one car was having mine running lean and knocking. Even interpolating the fuel needs up 25-30% didn't cut it.

If you've never tuned I would strongly advise you get some help, whether you pay someone or find someone nice enough to help. I had a basic understanding of the concept with my own project but had no practical idea of what ot adjust to get my car safe.
 

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That's kinda the same boat I'm in, I have a basic understanding of how it all works and what needs to be done but I have never actually done it or had any practice with it which makes me very hesitant to try it myself cuz I don't want to have gone thru all this time and money to screw something up.
 

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Watch the YouTube series "How to Tune an Evo." I'd link it but I'm at work and youtube's blocked. Open up ECUflash and pause the videos to go in there and play around. You'll want to pull your stock ROM first (and make a read-only copy) so what r3compile explains, you can go try on your own. Some of it, you won't be able to, but that's ok.

It still won't be enough to have you tuning right away, but when you get some help you'll be better off having played with it a little.
 

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Yea I have been messing with it a little just with roms that I got online and I did watch those videos already and they were helpful. I pretty much know the basics of ecuflash and how to use it for the most part it's just a matter of getting comfortable enough to decide of I wanna try to tune it myself.
 

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I would like to put my 2 cents worth in the mix. Let me point out that all of you noobs and a couple not so noobs need to read more. When I did my swap, I read this discussion to the end and the 6g74 3.5l swap pages to the end. I took a lot of notes. I admit that I am no expert, but Justin is very accurate in his explanations. Him and I have had many discussions over the years. TX4Codeman is rainman when it comes to mail order tunes. I would like to point out that, the heads on the 75 are unique from the other 6g7x engines. The 75 LIM should be used with the engine, its ports match the 75's head. The 75 has a larger intake port than the others which is why it flows better. Boostzelot pointed that out years ago with his Galant build. I can speak first hand, I did the swap myself for much less than $1k, I believe in my swap thread that I actually gave the prices I paid for parts. I even put in a set of AEM cam gears when I did it. I have also probably put more miles on mine than most others. My car is still a beast and slaps the shit out of many unsuspecting victims, its awesome. I have run door to door with 3rd and 4th gen v8 Camaro's, late 90's to early '00 Mustang GT's, and all sorts of tuners. When tuned right, it is bad ass, and mine has simple bolt on mods, LR-CAI, Megan type headers and a free flowing semi-stock exhaust. And I can tell you this, you can peg the needle on the speedo with a dogomatic. I did it on a track day. The only reason I am thinking about selling it is because I want to build a bad ass f-body. I don't want to spend a ton of money for the little gain I would get out of my 2G Stratus.
 
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The 6g75 lower manifold isn't worth it. Takes an hour and a half to port the 74 lower into far superior shape and then your rails bolt on. Anyway..
 

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It makes sense for the way he did it (keeping '72 fuel rail and bending it into place) or if someone wanted to modify the '75 rail for the return. But I agree, using the 74 one was easy and porting it wasn't near as much of a deal-breaker as modding or bending a fuel rail.

Only thing I didn't like about the '74 lower mani is that, like others, this one didn't sit flush against the heads for me so I had to silicone it. Not a big deal, but prying it off when I had to remove it wasn't fun.
 

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Thanks Justin for the insight. There is more info out here now then when I did it. There was less than a handful of 75's actually running when I did mine. My mods to the fuel rail took me about 10 minutes to do. I didn't have a 74 lower or a pile of fuel rails and other parts to choose from. My point is that with some prep work, anyone can do this.
 

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keep your 75 UIM and modify your 75 fuel rail.
add a return line and modify the loop between the 2 rails
add a frp and set the pressure at 50. don't use the 72 frp it can't go over 42.
scale you injectors with ECU flash.
 

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Dynoed the '75 non-mivec today:

http://www.club3g.com/forum/members-rides/167177-turtletamers-03-gts-spyder-3.html#post3551722

261whp/277wtq

This was done with all the standard upgrades: RPW headers, 3" catback, CAI, etc with the addition of a decent port and polish on the heads. There was still a little room left in the tune, and there are still some more things to go, like a 4" maf adapter and air filter, synthetic engine and tranny oil. With aftermarket cams I don't see any reason not to be able to hit 300lb-ft at the wheels without MIVEC or FI.
 
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