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OK after "I lost track of time" hours of reading this forum, I am hoping to get a clear concise answer to this: I recently bought a 02 eclipse gt spyder, this makes my second 3g. I now own two 3gcars. Anyways I got the car for a steal, Just need to replace the engine. I want to get the absolute most power I can While keeping in mind that I am not rich. I have gathered all the parts I feel nessasery for this swap. I am going to list them below, Would be greatly appreciated if I can get some feedback on weather or not I need the part I list or not. My ENTIRE list is comprised from club3g. Once I get the parts list Finalized. I am going to make a new thread with pictures on a step by step for this engine swap. Here we go: btw.. its a 5 speed manual and I am using parts from 3 different engines.

2006 galant v6 3.8 65kmiles
Stage 2 clutch
lightweight flywheel
Catback exhaust

6g72-- the original eclipse gt 3.0l engine parts:
alternator
distributer
power steering pump
crank sensor
flexplate
lower belt tensioner bracket
motor mount brackets

6g74-- 98 diamante v6 3.5l engine parts:
alternator bracket
a/c bracket
upper power steering bracket
timing covers ALL 3
harmonic balancer
throttle body
fuel rails
upper intake manifold
lower intake manifold
throttle cable bracket
coolant manifold

6g75--- 06 galant gts v6 3.8l non-mivec engine parts:
wiring harness
305cc injectors
heads
cams
belts

if anybody can correct me if I am wrong or add more to the list or even send me links to more info, many thanks.
 

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6G74 Water Neck + Heat/Coolant Lines to firewall, that part was a pain to find locally but I've lucked out found someone parting out a diamante on craigslist..
Also had to get my ecu flashed by txcodeman, according to him since my car is a 2000 currently the roms are not defined for injector scalings, in order to use larger injectors
 

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being as though my car is a 2002, would i still need to get the ecu flashed, I think i read somewhere that 02-03 ecu's don't need flashed... Please correct me if i am wrong. Also, If i do need to flash it, what is the best way to go about it and what parts supplies would i need to do so. thanks in advance..... btw I'm pulling the 3.0 out today!
 

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care to elaborate please? and as of right now, I plan to get headers made, I eventually want to turbo this engine so I fig that was my best option. was also going to get the engine port and polished but don't feel the outcome for the money will be worth it. Most of my knowledge on this swap has come from you silvertune, so thanks!
 

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You clearly haven't read my posts in this thread which outline literally every facet of this swap. Getting headers made is a waste. It would cost more than the swap itself. If you're working on a budget then you should be following my pilot post to a T but you aren't.
 

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can you please tell me what post number to start reading at.. where your pilot post is located.. I think my problem is I started at page one and got lost in the information, I tried to take notes and piece it all together.. thanks
 

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can you please tell me what post number to start reading at.. where your pilot post is located.. I think my problem is I started at page one and got lost in the information, I tried to take notes and piece it all together.. thanks
I think you need to re-start at post #1.

Everything needed to know about this swap is in this thread.
 

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Never start at the beginning of a swap thread... That's where all the misinformation is. Start here at the end where people like me lose patience and summarize for people who cant read. Work back until you find it. It's very obvious, it's a massive post.
 

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A good place to start is about a year ago when i was starting my swap. Hell, look at my thread if you want. It's not the wealth of knowledge this post is, but it's at least another resource.

For this thread, maybe 2 years back. Thats when people really figure this stuff out and have given pretty good information.
 

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This incomp couldn't shoot fish in a barrel.



Time for a little summary, no more retarded questions evolving out of misinformation.

Parts REQUIREMENTS for the 6g75 Non Mivec Swap (subject to upgrades of course):
6g75 Non-mivec motor

Custom air intake: best bet is to make your own. Use 3" piping and a 4.5" MAF flange with dry flow filter. This is the cheapest and most effective method.

6g74 throttle body; TPS is plug and play, IAC pigtail needs transplanting, otherwise just pay attention to the vacuum setup.

Upper manifold options:
6g74: bolts on the same way it always does but it's a crap manifold compared to the second option

6g75 non mivec: bolts on but requires trimming the hood bracing above the left front corner of the runners and a throttle body flange transplant or adapter to fit the 74 throttle body without leaks. Cruise control on the 74 throttle body fits under the hood with this manifold if you clear away a small piece of bracing. Flattening out the right edge of the battery tray allows you to retain stock battery location as well. This manifold nets a solid 15whp 15-20wtq over the 74 manifold and sounds better. Very worth it.

6g74 lower manifold - use 6g74 or 6g75 injectors they fit the same, just note for tuning
6g74 fuel rails with spacers
6g72/6g74 fuel pressure regulator (supports full bolt ons and tune with stock pump)
6g72/4 crank position sensor with reluctor wheel
6g72 distributor with 6g72 wire set (NGK's fit, 74 distributor will NOT work)
6g74 upper power steering bracket
6g72/4 lower power steering bracket
6g74 lower timing cover (PS belt runs through the plastic degree tab on the 75 lower cover, you can either use the 74 lower cover or shave the tab off the 75 lower and seal it up epoxy or tape)
6g74 alternator bracket
6g72 AC bracket (same as 6g74 bracket)
Shaved axle bracket (same as 6g74 swap)
6g74 coolant housing - with thermostat of course and both coolant temp sensors, stock radiator hoses work fine, one of the heater core hoses will need shortening
Stage two Clutch: (stock and stage 1 will not handle it)
Exhaust: covered at the end of post

TUNING - this is requried, you will blow it up running it without tuning. Besides that you'll make 6g72 output as well.

Highly recommended upgrades:
Lightweight flywheel; sacrifices nothing and helps keep your drivetrain happy due to less rotating momentum.

Limited slip differential (The stock diff is easily cracked with the 72 and a higher stage clutch, if you beat on this motor with a higher stage clutch the stock differential will break eventually)

Urethane driveline mounts - all of them. This is basically a requirement, the stock motor destroys stock mounts (the front is a defective part anyway), the 75 will blow them out almost immediately and in the time it takes it will shake and cause massive amounts of wheel hop. The latest Prothane kits come with all four bushings and K member bushings too. They no longer produce bushings with relief holes so they are stronger, the pins are more appropriately sized. The energy suspension kit comes with the front and rear mounts and K member bushings and are much stronger than even the latest prothane set but don't come with side mounts. For best results you want to run the ES mount kit with the front, rear and k member bushings and get prothane sides.

Torque damper - by no means a replacement for the engine mounts, it is essentially useless without urethane mounts but it is HIGHLY recommendable to use WITH the urethane mount upgrade.

Urethane front lower control arm bushings - the FLCA bushings are just like the motor mounts, soft and easily destroyed. Upgrading to urethane will help you stick bigtime and help eliminate wheel hop. Prothane makes a set for early control arms (some early 00 build dates), energy suspension covers the rest of the years. Clarify which you have before purchase, late model arms have a nut on the end of the pin that sits in the large bushing. If you have this, buy the Energy Suspension kit. If drive an 00 and your arms simply have pins sitting in the bushings get the Prothane kit.

Other options and notes:
6g74 oil pans (both pans with dipstick, dipstick tube, pickup tube and baffle) - bolts up to the 75 almost entirely, two bolt holes won't line up for the upper pan to block surface but so long as you're good with RTV this won't produce an issue. With the 74 pans you can fit any header setup that fits on the 6g74, the 75 pans are a bit wide/deeper so you have to modify even some 6g74 stuff to fit.

6g72/6g74 side mount bracket - the 75 bracket has an extra mounting point on it that needs grinding down to fit the AC bracket. That or grind the AC bracket, either works.

Valve covers - any front or rear covers for the 24v SOHC will bolt up but there are a few things to note.
They all have the same timing marks so no worries there
To use the 6g75 upper manifold the 6g75 rear valve cover is required. The 75 upper manifold cuts off the rear PCV port on other valve covers which WILL results in blown valve cover gaskets and oil cap leakage.
The 75 front cover has a threaded PCV valve as the Chrysler 6g7 covers do and brackets for coil packs and the 75 engine cover if applicable. The front valve cover is otherwise a visual choice.

Cam gears; all 6g7 24V SOHC cam gears are identical. That said should you so break one or desire an upgrade those for the 72 or 74 work also.

Accessories: You reuse your stock power steering pump and AC compressor. The stock alternator usually reused as well however the 6g75 alternator CAN be used if you so desire. It is a 110 amp as opposed to 90 amp stock. Doing the swap with the 74 power steering and alternator brackets allows you to reuse stock serpentine belts as they are the same length as on the 74.


EXHAUST CLARIFICATION
The 75 makes good use of a 2.5" catback, you WILL SEE GAINS using the 2.5 or 3.0" over the stock 2.25 system. They make no difference on the small motor but the 75 is capable enough to put these diameters to use.

Headers: 6g72 header setups will need modified downpipes to fit on this motor. The heads are higher up in the bay and further apart. If your setup fits a 74 then it will fit this motor if it is clad with 74 oil pans, however not all 74 setups will fit over the 75 oil pans either. In any case, expect to modify things to make it all work unless the setup is coming off another finished 75. RPW headers both long and short tube bolt onto this motor without modification.

If you're doing this swap don't be a retard, get headers.

All this aside do yourself a favor and do all your maintenance now. High quality timing belt kit with hydraulic adjuster and water pump, thoermostat, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and anything else you think would be good to put in now.
 

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The only thing different between the 3g eclipse and the 2g stratus coupes is the wheelbase and outer sheet metal. The engine compartment components are completely identical except for the shape of the core support. Same radiators, Transmissions, Engines, mounts, suspension, steering, etc. I mean they rolled out of the same plant in Holland, IL (?)
Hmm my 3G says it was made in Normal, IL
 

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6g75 mivec sell top end or build and swap oh 01 3g gt.

Yea so picked up the 75m for 400 bucks spun rod bearing . Problem is I think it could be from the crank main studs only 33000 on the engine though . Anyway I know im gonna need a ecu flash tune if i decide to fix the engine , does anyone know of a place I can send the ecu for a swap like this. Oh and ive been reading all the threads I can on this for a month I think its possible from what ive read but will the engine run without the mivec hooked up . I mean i mainly only hear of rice switches or whatever . But with the oil control valve thing dosent sound like a good idea . I would like to have a box made before i touched it . And yes the engine was still running when it was taking out just gotta see what kind of damage is there. Also 2.5 borla catback, ebay leaky headers need mods anyways for the swap and aem cai are the only mods to the car . Yup any help or direction would be much appreciated . Thanks damn hope this thread isn't dead.
 

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I can send you a 2001 rom and xml for your swap.

I did 14.26sec on 1/4 mile with my tune and bad fwd traction.

Only 1 knockcount between 5000 and 6000 RPM.
6G75 Mivec is the best swap you can do.

F.Y.I. Buy a window switch to control the Mivec selenoids.

Good luck !
 
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