What kind of dyno did you run on?
I think you need to re-start at post #1.can you please tell me what post number to start reading at.. where your pilot post is located.. I think my problem is I started at page one and got lost in the information, I tried to take notes and piece it all together.. thanks
Time for a little summary, no more retarded questions evolving out of misinformation.
Parts REQUIREMENTS for the 6g75 Non Mivec Swap (subject to upgrades of course):
6g75 Non-mivec motor
Custom air intake: best bet is to make your own. Use 3" piping and a 4.5" MAF flange with dry flow filter. This is the cheapest and most effective method.
6g74 throttle body; TPS is plug and play, IAC pigtail needs transplanting, otherwise just pay attention to the vacuum setup.
Upper manifold options:
6g74: bolts on the same way it always does but it's a crap manifold compared to the second option
6g75 non mivec: bolts on but requires trimming the hood bracing above the left front corner of the runners and a throttle body flange transplant or adapter to fit the 74 throttle body without leaks. Cruise control on the 74 throttle body fits under the hood with this manifold if you clear away a small piece of bracing. Flattening out the right edge of the battery tray allows you to retain stock battery location as well. This manifold nets a solid 15whp 15-20wtq over the 74 manifold and sounds better. Very worth it.
6g74 lower manifold - use 6g74 or 6g75 injectors they fit the same, just note for tuning
6g74 fuel rails with spacers
6g72/6g74 fuel pressure regulator (supports full bolt ons and tune with stock pump)
6g72/4 crank position sensor with reluctor wheel
6g72 distributor with 6g72 wire set (NGK's fit, 74 distributor will NOT work)
6g74 upper power steering bracket
6g72/4 lower power steering bracket
6g74 lower timing cover (PS belt runs through the plastic degree tab on the 75 lower cover, you can either use the 74 lower cover or shave the tab off the 75 lower and seal it up epoxy or tape)
6g74 alternator bracket
6g72 AC bracket (same as 6g74 bracket)
Shaved axle bracket (same as 6g74 swap)
6g74 coolant housing - with thermostat of course and both coolant temp sensors, stock radiator hoses work fine, one of the heater core hoses will need shortening
Stage two Clutch: (stock and stage 1 will not handle it)
Exhaust: covered at the end of post
TUNING - this is requried, you will blow it up running it without tuning. Besides that you'll make 6g72 output as well.
Highly recommended upgrades:
Lightweight flywheel; sacrifices nothing and helps keep your drivetrain happy due to less rotating momentum.
Limited slip differential (The stock diff is easily cracked with the 72 and a higher stage clutch, if you beat on this motor with a higher stage clutch the stock differential will break eventually)
Urethane driveline mounts - all of them. This is basically a requirement, the stock motor destroys stock mounts (the front is a defective part anyway), the 75 will blow them out almost immediately and in the time it takes it will shake and cause massive amounts of wheel hop. The latest Prothane kits come with all four bushings and K member bushings too. They no longer produce bushings with relief holes so they are stronger, the pins are more appropriately sized. The energy suspension kit comes with the front and rear mounts and K member bushings and are much stronger than even the latest prothane set but don't come with side mounts. For best results you want to run the ES mount kit with the front, rear and k member bushings and get prothane sides.
Torque damper - by no means a replacement for the engine mounts, it is essentially useless without urethane mounts but it is HIGHLY recommendable to use WITH the urethane mount upgrade.
Urethane front lower control arm bushings - the FLCA bushings are just like the motor mounts, soft and easily destroyed. Upgrading to urethane will help you stick bigtime and help eliminate wheel hop. Prothane makes a set for early control arms (some early 00 build dates), energy suspension covers the rest of the years. Clarify which you have before purchase, late model arms have a nut on the end of the pin that sits in the large bushing. If you have this, buy the Energy Suspension kit. If drive an 00 and your arms simply have pins sitting in the bushings get the Prothane kit.
Other options and notes:
6g74 oil pans (both pans with dipstick, dipstick tube, pickup tube and baffle) - bolts up to the 75 almost entirely, two bolt holes won't line up for the upper pan to block surface but so long as you're good with RTV this won't produce an issue. With the 74 pans you can fit any header setup that fits on the 6g74, the 75 pans are a bit wide/deeper so you have to modify even some 6g74 stuff to fit.
6g72/6g74 side mount bracket - the 75 bracket has an extra mounting point on it that needs grinding down to fit the AC bracket. That or grind the AC bracket, either works.
Valve covers - any front or rear covers for the 24v SOHC will bolt up but there are a few things to note.
They all have the same timing marks so no worries there
To use the 6g75 upper manifold the 6g75 rear valve cover is required. The 75 upper manifold cuts off the rear PCV port on other valve covers which WILL results in blown valve cover gaskets and oil cap leakage.
The 75 front cover has a threaded PCV valve as the Chrysler 6g7 covers do and brackets for coil packs and the 75 engine cover if applicable. The front valve cover is otherwise a visual choice.
Cam gears; all 6g7 24V SOHC cam gears are identical. That said should you so break one or desire an upgrade those for the 72 or 74 work also.
Accessories: You reuse your stock power steering pump and AC compressor. The stock alternator usually reused as well however the 6g75 alternator CAN be used if you so desire. It is a 110 amp as opposed to 90 amp stock. Doing the swap with the 74 power steering and alternator brackets allows you to reuse stock serpentine belts as they are the same length as on the 74.
The 75 makes good use of a 2.5" catback, you WILL SEE GAINS using the 2.5 or 3.0" over the stock 2.25 system. They make no difference on the small motor but the 75 is capable enough to put these diameters to use.
Headers: 6g72 header setups will need modified downpipes to fit on this motor. The heads are higher up in the bay and further apart. If your setup fits a 74 then it will fit this motor if it is clad with 74 oil pans, however not all 74 setups will fit over the 75 oil pans either. In any case, expect to modify things to make it all work unless the setup is coming off another finished 75. RPW headers both long and short tube bolt onto this motor without modification.
If you're doing this swap don't be a retard, get headers.
All this aside do yourself a favor and do all your maintenance now. High quality timing belt kit with hydraulic adjuster and water pump, thoermostat, spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and anything else you think would be good to put in now.
Hmm my 3G says it was made in Normal, ILThe only thing different between the 3g eclipse and the 2g stratus coupes is the wheelbase and outer sheet metal. The engine compartment components are completely identical except for the shape of the core support. Same radiators, Transmissions, Engines, mounts, suspension, steering, etc. I mean they rolled out of the same plant in Holland, IL (?)