Radiator is in now but that picture gives you an idea of what removing the condenser can do for airflow.
2
A/C Delete
I'm posting this here because for the most part, the only people who would gut their A/C are those who have gone FI or are racing. Since hardly anyone races this platform... Well here it goes.
I've deleted the A/C out of my R/T in preparation for the twin turbo kit. I want as much space as possible for the routing of my piping and I want ZERO cooling issues especially since my car will be hitting road courses for Redline Time Attacks in the FWD class. (modified or unlimited) I'm gutting everything under the dash too so it really serves me no purpose.
The biggest hurdle in the deletion of the A/C is not the actual removal of the A/C system but how to route the alternator belt once you remove the compressor without having to fabricate anything. What I came up with is I believe, fairly elegant in it's simpleness. In order for this to work, you need an A/C bracket that has two tapped holes on the side facing the passenger frame rail. All SDS users have this bracket as it's required to mount up a small pulley for that system. Some eclipses, and more notably galants have a different pulley configuration than the majority of the 3Gs which is the reason for those two holes. All newer 3Gs come with an A/C bracket that does not have the two holes. There is an additional bracket with a pulley found on the early 3Gs that mounts to that location on the A/C bracket.
By leaving the A/C bracket in place and installing the additional bracket and pulley to it I was able to come up with a configuration that retains the use of the stock tensioner and keeps the belt from any bolts etc w/ great clearance. I did have to use a new belt instead of the standard belt. The OEM belt is either a 470 or 475 which translates into a 47 or 47.5" belt. I used a 6 ribbed belt that has a length of 46.5" or a 465 series belt. The Dayco part number is 5060465.
I'll post some pictures hopefully later tonight.
BTW, the removal of the condenser in front of the Radiator will TREMENDOUSLY help with heat soak and truly allow the radiator to actually expel the heat generated by the engine / turbo/s.
I've deleted the A/C out of my R/T in preparation for the twin turbo kit. I want as much space as possible for the routing of my piping and I want ZERO cooling issues especially since my car will be hitting road courses for Redline Time Attacks in the FWD class. (modified or unlimited) I'm gutting everything under the dash too so it really serves me no purpose.
The biggest hurdle in the deletion of the A/C is not the actual removal of the A/C system but how to route the alternator belt once you remove the compressor without having to fabricate anything. What I came up with is I believe, fairly elegant in it's simpleness. In order for this to work, you need an A/C bracket that has two tapped holes on the side facing the passenger frame rail. All SDS users have this bracket as it's required to mount up a small pulley for that system. Some eclipses, and more notably galants have a different pulley configuration than the majority of the 3Gs which is the reason for those two holes. All newer 3Gs come with an A/C bracket that does not have the two holes. There is an additional bracket with a pulley found on the early 3Gs that mounts to that location on the A/C bracket.
By leaving the A/C bracket in place and installing the additional bracket and pulley to it I was able to come up with a configuration that retains the use of the stock tensioner and keeps the belt from any bolts etc w/ great clearance. I did have to use a new belt instead of the standard belt. The OEM belt is either a 470 or 475 which translates into a 47 or 47.5" belt. I used a 6 ribbed belt that has a length of 46.5" or a 465 series belt. The Dayco part number is 5060465.
I'll post some pictures hopefully later tonight.
BTW, the removal of the condenser in front of the Radiator will TREMENDOUSLY help with heat soak and truly allow the radiator to actually expel the heat generated by the engine / turbo/s.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Radiator is in now but that picture gives you an idea of what removing the condenser can do for airflow.
2
Your right Pharm, I'm probably one of the only nuts owning this platform that decided to go racing!
Even with NA I deleted the complete AC system, of course mine was more for weight savings & like you getting rid of clutter!
Just a side note: how did all your pully's get so rusty,I know you drive it in the northern winters, sorry!
Even with NA I deleted the complete AC system, of course mine was more for weight savings & like you getting rid of clutter!
Just a side note: how did all your pully's get so rusty,I know you drive it in the northern winters, sorry!
Nice post, I'm actually excited to see any progression of your TT setup.
Nice work! I'd be interested in seeing a pic of that pulley and mounting bracket before installed on the AC bracket if you happen to have one. My 01 Spyder came with the tapped AC bracket but no "extra pulley" or the bracket to mount it to the AC bracket. Just curious what they look like.
His car has been sitting in his backyard forever, because he hasn't had time to work on it.
Just a side note: how did all your pully's get so rusty,I know you drive it in the northern winters, sorry!
Yup have this done as well. But with the RIPP system. All you get rid of is the extra bracket, their BMW idler pulley, & A/C I run a 56" belt with that setup.
Clipse3GT, post some pics for others who have the SDS to see as a reference.
When I find my camera's battery charger, I'll snap a shot of the bracket.
When I find my camera's battery charger, I'll snap a shot of the bracket.
Pharm - My AC compressor has been off for a while now. One of my shops just got rid of the whole thing, can't recall if they left the brackets though. Still have the lines in but those will be going too. Should look to see how they did it - I just know it's been gone with no special fabbing... :dunno:Clipse3GT, post some pics for others who have the SDS to see as a reference.
When I find my camera's battery charger, I'll snap a shot of the bracket.
Technically you could use the belt w/o this bracket and pulley but I don't like how close the two belts then are, like less than 1/8" of clearance.
Couldn't you use a slightly smaller belt around 45" or 45.5"? That would mean that the tensioner pulley would be higher up and far enough away from the other side of the belt.Technically you could use the belt w/o this bracket and pulley but I don't like how close the two belts then are, like less than 1/8" of clearance.
Doing this the belts are really close together probably a quarter/half an inch or something like that, but I don't have issues with them touching or rubbing. Ran it for the past two years this way and has been working fine. But the catch is to run a pretty tight belt, then use the tensioner minimally, since using it too much will cause the belts to touch.Technically you could use the belt w/o this bracket and pulley but I don't like how close the two belts then are, like less than 1/8" of clearance.
Yup, I'd rather play it safe and have inches between the belts instead of a fraction there of. 
Thought I'd update this thread. I've changed belt configurations. I removed the A/C bracket that bolts to the block along with the bracket that can be bolted to it with the extra pulley. I am now running just the crank pulley, tensioner pulley and alternator. The belt size is 5060415. If the belts were any closer I would have put the brackets back on but I liked getting rid of 18 pounds on the nose of the car by removing those brackets.
If I have a problem with the belts touching I will simply make a bracket to allow the alternator to pivot on the through bolt placing the pulley lower giving the belts more clearance. Actually I might design a way to tension the alternator itself and then it would be simply be the crank pulley and the alternator. I like that idea.
Damnit another thing to figure out! :lol:
If I have a problem with the belts touching I will simply make a bracket to allow the alternator to pivot on the through bolt placing the pulley lower giving the belts more clearance. Actually I might design a way to tension the alternator itself and then it would be simply be the crank pulley and the alternator. I like that idea.
Damnit another thing to figure out! :lol:
my ac compressor is blown and if my 4cyl one doesnt work, i want to get rid of my ac on my belt line. how do i find out how long the belt needs to be if i get rid of my ac. im going to keep it all there for when i get a new compressor but i dont want my belt to run around it.
as has been mentioned before:
make the belt you need from a piece of string. that will give you the length. take that piece of string (length), and your original belt (for width/pattern) to a autoparts store. any store worker worth his salt should be able to help you find the correct size belt with that info. and remember you just need to get real close, you can adjust the length ( a little) with the tension adjuster.
make the belt you need from a piece of string. that will give you the length. take that piece of string (length), and your original belt (for width/pattern) to a autoparts store. any store worker worth his salt should be able to help you find the correct size belt with that info. and remember you just need to get real close, you can adjust the length ( a little) with the tension adjuster.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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