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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK DUMB QUESTION... I BOUGHT THE GAUGE FROM A FRIEND OF MINE AND IT DIDN'T COME WITH ANY OF THE HARDWARE WOULD I JUST BE ABLE TO USE A REGULAR O2 SENSOR AS THE PROBE OR SOMETHIG ELSE?
 

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NUFF SAID
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1,497 Posts
if it's not a wideband sell it now on ebay to some retard with a honda, narrowband sensors are useless and i have no idea why people buy them if you truely need one get a aem wideband.
 

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Zero Resistance, LLC
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1,948 Posts
you will have a useless blinky light that bounces back and forth.
Not true. You are just repeating what everyone else says. I've had an autometer "blinky light" gauge for years now. When it was hooked up to my narrow band it helped me diagnose many many problems with my car, like misfire issues and vacuum leaks. Now I have it hooked to a digital output of my LC-1. So, now it's a very affordable wideband gauge. Sure it has blinky lights, but it is far from useless.
 

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Lift and Separate
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2,259 Posts
You are just repeating what everyone else says.
Yeah, I really have no idea what I'm talking about. I just repeat what everyone else says. :nuts:

I had my Autometer A/F gauge hooked up to the simulated narrowband output on my Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband, but it still doesn't display the actual AFR like a wideband gauge. He was talking about using it with a narrowband sensor. In most cases, this is useless, especially if the car is minimally modified.
 

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OMFG
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6,632 Posts
if it's not a wideband sell it now on ebay to some retard with a honda, narrowband sensors are useless and i have no idea why people buy them if you truely need one get a aem wideband.
Zeitronix > AEM
TIA
:metal:

Not true. You are just repeating what everyone else says. I've had an autometer "blinky light" gauge for years now. When it was hooked up to my narrow band it helped me diagnose many many problems with my car, like misfire issues and vacuum leaks. Now I have it hooked to a digital output of my LC-1. So, now it's a very affordable wideband gauge. Sure it has blinky lights, but it is far from useless.
As you probably already know, A narrowband is incredibly nonlinear when you enter the zones outside of its usable output range (approx 200-800mV). So nonlinear thats its useless for user-tunability(I may have just made that word up, but it rocks) of the afr, which is supposed to be the primary reason for having it in the first place.

So while you may have used it for troubleshooting some issues, its still not something that anyone should attempt to tune with.
I also dont understand how hooking it to an LC-1 somehow changes the fundamentals of the sensor.... :scratch:
 

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Zero Resistance, LLC
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1,948 Posts
Yeah, I really have no idea what I'm talking about. I just repeat what everyone else says. :nuts:

I had my Autometer A/F gauge hooked up to the simulated narrowband output on my Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband, but it still doesn't display the actual AFR like a wideband gauge. He was talking about using it with a narrowband sensor. In most cases, this is useless, especially if the car is minimally modified.
I know what he was talking about, that's why i said it's very useful for diagnosing problems on the fly. Note, I did not mention anything about tuning. Then when he wants to go past minimally modified, it can be used as a wideband gauge. No, i am not talking about a simulated narrow band gauge like you mentioned, which is retarded. The lc-1 has user programmable analog outputs to display wideband readings on any device that can read voltage. Whether that's a lcd display of a cheap blinky light afr gauge.
 

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turbo? unf unf!
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1,972 Posts
Not true. You are just repeating what everyone else says. I've had an autometer "blinky light" gauge for years now. When it was hooked up to my narrow band it helped me diagnose many many problems with my car, like misfire issues and vacuum leaks. Now I have it hooked to a digital output of my LC-1. So, now it's a very affordable wideband gauge. Sure it has blinky lights, but it is far from useless.
i really didnt know misfires and VACUUM leaks could be tuned by using a gauge that says RICH or LEAN :D *SARCASM*
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
wow... all that and only one answer.... idiot honda owner it is! lol good thing i only paid a pack of smokes for it....
 

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Lift and Separate
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2,259 Posts
wow... all that and only one answer.... idiot honda owner it is! lol good thing i only paid a pack of smokes for it....
The A/F gauge will "work" with a narrowband sensor. If you really must know, you can either run a wire into your engine compartment and tap the signal wire straight from the sensor, or you can access the wire from below the ECU. I believe it is D-76.

 
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yeah thats really not a good idea...
1st: look at NAPALM's picture: Yes, thats a evo head, turboed to heaven and back (running over 20psi...)
2nd: look at his join date, then look at yours...

based on those two things, you should respect him a lil more than that. i know you meant it as a joke but still...narrowband A/F gauges are stupid, almost totally useless, and all everybody does with them is put them on the a-pillar with almost zero mods on the car to make it look cool ;)

:sam:
 

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Fullmetal
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541 Posts
Looks like the signal is hooked to somewhere else other than the correct line (I may be wrong, but I'll Check to make sure). I could ask a friend of mine with his A/F Gauge on his 3G, because his blinking light is moving just a little slower than the video is moving. I know it is suppose to move in that course of action (from left to right or vice versa), but that looks a little to fast.

I'd say the only way to tell if it is right is to give the car a few revs and see if the engine is actually sitting in the area of the Lean and Rich during your Revs only for a moment. If it's not I'd go back to the shop that installed it and get it correct it.
 

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Lift and Separate
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