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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Ill hook my vac gage and see thanks

Using 02 ecu for this car i get p0303 code after running eng a few second after coming off idle. Noticable back/misfire runs rough, after warms up it dies when you let off throttle and return to idle
I Think i cleaned map and port but ill dbl. Check them
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
You need the ECU to the GEN 2 vehicle or take the camshaft housing off of the Gen 2 and install it on the GEN 3 but all of the ignition parts have to match the ECU to start because of the key code set in the ECU at the factory. You need to use all of the same ingnition and camshaft housing parts from the GEN 2 or the GEN 3
The map is only thing from 97 besides injectors fuel rail. Resistor ,press. Reg. And turbo, intecooler, bov. Every thing else is stock to this car.
Ecu, cam, crank sensor, ign coils all stock 02 parts
 

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I posted"help cyl. E misfire" and got a few replies(thank you) BUT nothing ive done has fixed the cyl. 3 misfire. Ive.... Replaced plug wire, moved coil around, checked spark plug, checked wiring to injector, reman injector in hole, using correct resistor for injectors. Replaced head gasket reflashed ecu with larger injector info,checked timing belt alingment..... Wtf am i missing im about ready to send it to the crusher. Ijust rebuilt eng. And itdif not do this before rebuild is correct so what the hell am i not checking or doing please help i truly at my wits end
My vehicle takes a Pacific spark plug and coil and refuses to take the OEM or what it calls for I would try to switch over your spark plug and your coil to a different brand try off-brand like auto light something with a laser very fine tip point on the on the spark plugs and the coil packs I'll get something from O'Reilly's I think you're only problem is because some of those cars only go specifically by a certain plugs for me
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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My vehicle takes a Pacific spark plug and coil and refuses to take the OEM or what it calls for I would try to switch over your spark plug and your coil to a different brand try off-brand like auto light something with a laser very fine tip point on the on the spark plugs and the coil packs I'll get something from O'Reilly's I think you're only problem is because some of those cars only go specifically by a certain plugs for me
It is true that when turboed, you need to use a different rated plug (colder I think), but brand name or electrode tip style may or may not make a difference...trial and error or research other members who might know, as I'm not turboed and can't make a specific plug recommendation.
 

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Im using ngk irridiums stock heat range if you have any recommendations for turbo application that wold be great but first I need to figure out my missfire issue
For shits and giggles, try swapping the cyl 3 plug to a different cyl, so if the trouble code moves to the new cyl, then it's possibly just a bad plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Ok so the noid light says cyl.3 is not firing so i did a continuity test on the wire from ug to plug , inlector to ecu and it fine so at this point im assuming its the injector driver in the ecu.
Does any one know where i can send the ecu for repairs or do have to change it out and if so how do i register. The new ecu to my car?
Ill search the topic out but if any one can help speed up this process ide really like to drive this thing while its still convertable wreather out there.thanks...bc
 

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Probably easier cheaper to just grab a used ECU and flash out the immobilizer. Open the case up and look for visible damage tho to clue in to what caused your failure, make sure nothing is shorted and check how many amps it takes to open the injector.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Are you using the correct ECU for that Gen2 engine setup ? You pretty much drained my brain on this one, but I am not much of a four-banger kind of guy. Pretty frustrating, ...J.D.😧
Well jd i apreciate your help and this is what ive determined, after getting the noid light i found that cyl. 3 injector is not firing so i did a continuity chech from ecu plug to injector plug and it checks out fine so that leaves the ecu. I found a place that repairs thembut i dont know them or if there any good and they seem s bit pricey. Do you know or any ine else know a reputable place to get my ecu repaired?
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Probably easier cheaper to just grab a used ECU and flash out the immobilizer. Open the case up and look for visible damage tho to clue in to what caused your failure, make sure nothing is shorted and check how many amps it takes to open the injector.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
I opened the ecu and didnt see any blown components and no burt capacitor smell in fact it didnt look like any thing was wrong with the board.
Im using the resistor from the 97 with the 450 injectors from the 97 its wired correctly, positive voltage grom the mfi relay to the resistor... Out of the resistor to each injector... Neg from the ecu and correct wire to correct injector. I have a fresh reman injector in cyl. 3s hole the injector i bought has the correct resistance that matches the others. The car didn't have amisfire when i pulled the eng. And the eng. Rebuild was done correctly by me using the factory serv. Manual as a guide
So i have no clue as to what could have caused the driver in the ecu yo fail. I guess it dont matter why at this point i just dont want to have it reacure because i missed something. I opened the wire harness to the firewall and the wired were all intact no breaks in the insulation. I cut the wires sepratly so i dont know how it could have shorted the driver. From my description do you see anything i could have missed?
Your help is appreciated.....bc
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Well jd i apreciate your help and this is what ive determined, after getting the noid light i found that cyl. 3 injector is not firing so i did a continuity chech from ecu plug to injector plug and it checks out fine so that leaves the ecu. I found a place that repairs thembut i dont know them or if there any good and they seem s bit pricey. Do you know or any ine else know a reputable place to get my ecu repaired?
Afraid I cannot help you sourcing a rebuilt ECU. I know they are not cheap. At least you are getting down to the real issue here. I was worried there might be some changes between the 2nd and 3rd. gen cars in thier ECU. You become your own engineer when you build something like this. Also the difference between an ECU for a turbo engine as opposed to non- turbo [how does the ECU look at positive manifold pressure as opposed the vacuum in the manifold]. Again, I have little knowledge of the 4cyl. car other than owning one once. ...J.D.
 

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Well you're assuming the ground control side is dead from the PCM, make sure that injector is getting power. Could be as dumb as a pinched or broke wire feeding that injector power.

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Before you think about replacing the ECM, I'd use the noid light at the ECM to make darn sure it's not the wiring between the ECM and the injector.
I used a noid ligjt and did a continuity check of the wiring from injector plug to ecu plug and its fine. So that leaves the ecu. So the immobiliser delete hows that done? Do i simply not imput a value in that field or entet theinfi from my existing ecu or does ecu flash have a way to simply delete that parameter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Well you're assuming the ground control side is dead from the PCM, make sure that injector is getting power. Could be as dumb as a pinched or broke wire feeding that injector power.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
used a noid ligjt and did a continuity check of the wiring from injector plug to ecu plug and its fine. So that leaves the ecu. So the immobiliser delete hows that done? Do i simply not imput a value in that field or entet theinfi from my existing ecu or does ecu flash have a way to simply delete that parameter?
 

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I used a noid ligjt and did a continuity check of the wiring from injector plug to ecu plug and its fine. So that leaves the ecu. So the immobiliser delete hows that done? Do i simply not imput a value in that field or entet theinfi from my existing ecu or does ecu flash have a way to simply delete that parameter?
It's up to you and what you say makes sense, but I'd still check at the ECM for the injector signal just to be certain. Funny things can happen with old wires. For example, you could have a short to ground midway through the wire and you'd still get continuity when testing from end to end. But the electrical pulse to squirt the injector would take the path to ground instead and never make it to the injector.
 

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So just to go over basics here so we're all working the same knowledge set let's review how the injector circuit works.
There's a fuse that powers the injectors (and probably other things) that's running on a common wire to the injectors for shared fused power. The ECM pulls that +12 down to ground one injector at a time to turn it on. You should be seeing constant power at one wire with the ignition on and ground turning off and on at the other wire with the engine cranking or running. The noid light needs BOTH power and ground to light the bulb, the bulb not lighting does not automatically mean the ECU is not grounding it if you're only probing the injector. You need to connect the noid light to B+ AND the ECM injector control circuit AT the ECM connector via a backprobe to know it's the ECM. The noid light not lighting at the injector still leaves the possibility that injector power is the problem due to a broken or corroded wire somewhere. You should at least ohm check between the injector connector + terminal and the fuse and see low ohms, usually OEM's want under 5 ohms on circuits like that. The ECU should be the last thing to replace when throwing parts at a problem since it's a big ticket item, you want to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
It's up to you and what you say makes sense, but I'd still check at the ECM for the injector signal just to be certain. Funny things can happen with old wires. For example, you could have a short to ground midway through the wire and you'd still get continuity when testing from end to end. But the electrical pulse to squirt the injector would take the path to ground instead and never make it to the injector.
Good advice ill do that thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
So just to go over basics here so we're all working the same knowledge set let's review how the injector circuit works.
There's a fuse that powers the injectors (and probably other things) that's running on a common wire to the injectors for shared fused power. The ECM pulls that +12 down to ground one injector at a time to turn it on. You should be seeing constant power at one wire with the ignition on and ground turning off and on at the other wire with the engine cranking or running. The noid light needs BOTH power and ground to light the bulb, the bulb not lighting does not automatically mean the ECU is not grounding it if you're only probing the injector. You need to connect the noid light to B+ AND the ECM injector control circuit AT the ECM connector via a backprobe to know it's the ECM. The noid light not lighting at the injector still leaves the possibility that injector power is the problem due to a broken or corroded wire somewhere. You should at least ohm check between the injector connector + terminal and the fuse and see low ohms, usually OEM's want under 5 ohms on circuits like that. The ECU should be the last thing to replace when throwing parts at a problem since it's a big ticket item, you want to be sure.
Ill do that thanks one question though the resistor should or should not be in the circet during test with noid light...the 450s im using out of the 97 require a resistor being low impedance its in the positive side from the mfi relay
 
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