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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Built motor in prior to turbo:


On the dyno, NA output.


7 psi of boost

Spinning on the dyno at 15 pounds.














2014 Update It's been blown up and parted out twice and now rebuilt.













Latest Dyno




Latest mods list:
Wheels:
Evo 8 Enkei’s

Tires:
Front – Hankook Ventus RS3 255/40R17
Rear - Bridgestone Potenza Grid 245/45/R17

Brakes:
Brembo front calipers
Stoptech slotted rotors
Stoptech pads
AEM oversize rear disc kit

Drivetrain:
Quaife LSD

Clutch:
Comp stage 4 sprung 6 puck kit
New OEM throw out bearing

Shifting:
Megan SS
Prothane shifter bushings
Brass cable bushings from Speed Source
Custom SS clutch line

Mounts:
Ingalls ETD
ES Roll stops and K member bushings
Prothane Sides

Suspension:
100% urethane bushings
Bomz rear lower tie bar
D2's
Alignment kits

Boost setup:
Custom Holset 6764
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Custom hotside in and out
Mailbox resonator catback
TR10C intercooler
Custom coldside all around
Greddy RS

Top end:
Second stage ported and rebuilt throttle body
Deep PNP 6g75 UM
Fully ported LM with PCV delete

Heads:
SPE stage 2+ cams
SPE springs
Full port and polish


Shortblock: 3.6 liters
9:1 custom JE Forged pistons
Custom H beams
Fully balanced and blueprinted - ARP mains

Fuel:
AEM 320
Big bore rails – AN 6 fittings/loop
Fuel Lab mini FPR
Evo 560's

Ignition:
MSD 6A ignition box
MSD Blaster SS Coil
NGK wires
NGK BKR7E @ 0.028

Cooling:
Mishimoto Aluminum radiator
FB Pushers run via stock control box
180* Gates Thermostat

PCV setup:
1/2" ID vents
Catch can VTA






The story as it began:
I've had enough people asking me to make a thread and since the mods like to keep things specific I guess I'll round everything up here. I'm not huge into the whole "oh boy look at my shit" stuff but for those into performance and the knitty gritty on this platform, maybe you'll find something useful or at least interesting.

History:
Bought my 3g back on December 19th, 2008 for 6k flat after taxes and fees. Had 83k on it, but it was in rough shape. Needed brakes and tires, eventually a harmonic balancer and belts, both window regulators, a complete rear suspension rebuild, a new clutch, and the usual maintainence stuff. I did the clutch in december which rounded out the last of all these repairs and have enjoyed driving a reliable, well running car for until last wednesday, well almost.

Now:
For those of you who have stuck your head into the performance sections this forum you've probably seen glimpses of what I've been up to. I've done a fair amount of exploration but all of it has been oriented towards a turbo build on a 6g74. Not just any turbo, and not just any 6g74. :naughty: Well, now the time has come. I've got all the parts and the shortblock is due in tomorrow or Friday. I tore into the car last Wednesday, I'm still very busy but its been the focus of daily work so I'm getting places with it. Here's a few shitty pics of what's going on.

I'd also like to mention I'm breaking the motor in NA which is why the turbo stuff isn't relevant just yet.

First thing I decided to do was strip my interior. Its really easy.

Actually I just pulled the seat cushion to put in my Walbro 255, the hatch trim is out because the PO cracked it when he deleted the rear wiper and it rattled enough to end its presence in my car. The install is very simple, just a serious pain in the ass. Since my car is of Iowa origin, the area under the seat was fully of dust from a gravel road which essentially siezed the black ring onto the assembly, as well as 12 years of age. Luckily I got the stinker off and swapped the pumps out. For anyone doing this install a belt sander works 1000x easier then a Dremel for shortening the stock pickup sock. Once back together I let it idle for a couple minutes to make sure it sealed properly, it runs noticeably richer without a real fpr and the stock tune.

Parked it at last. Been working towards this day for 2 years.


First thing I pulled off was the muffler. Stupid thing cracked off the pipe 2 weeks before breakdown day. Stock exhaust minus this and an extra resonator, sounded awesome.


Started the tear down.


Hubs out


Keep on pullin stuff


Drained all the fluids. This being the trans. Fluid was still very clean from the clutch job I did 3k ago.


Ready to pull engine and trans


Stock motor came out easily. I pulled the exhaust manifolds off hoping to find something worth porting and was direly disappointed. The 00 Fed spec manifolds aren't actually cast, they're two halves and two flanges all welded together. There isn't enough metail to actually make them flow worth shit so I have to figure something else out. Might just use the RPW shorties I have. Anywho, the front of my motor has been doused with oil. It saturated even the exhaust gaskets. Can't figure out how it bled so much, the oil cap was always tight and I couldn't believe the valve covers would let this much go with a good clean PCV valve.


Exedy stage 1 clutch, put it in 3k miles ago with a resurfaced stock flywheel. Broke it in properly, it grabbed wonderfully. The machining on the flywheel is still fully visible and feelable and the disc is very healthy.


Out and shoved in the corner until future attention.


Shot of the whole situation.


One of the more irritating tasks... soldering in the IAC pigtail. The one off the 74 harness uses much thicker gauge wire and my heat sinc kept biting through the insulation, not to mention there isn't any good work surface in there. Got her done nicely though, shrink wrapped then wrapped with 3 layers of tape.



The next attention was given to the 6g75 upper manifold. Specific details on it can be found here: http://www.club3g.com/forum/3g-eclipse-gt-gts-specific/142719-75-galant-upper-manifold-swap-thread.html
The final task was fitting the throttle cable to the manifold. I had a bracket premade but of course the adjustment still wasn't enough. I actually simplified it a lot in the end. Just a basic SS L bracket and the 6g74 manifold tb cable bracket bolted onto it. Nice and sturdy too.


Next on the list was/is the ECU. Since I have an 00, I'm fucked for tuning. I have an Emanage ultimate, but I want to give the stock ECU's a run for their money with big maps first. I have an 03 GTS Ecu and a 1.3 cable, already tested them and they work together fine. I pulled the 00 to send out to a friend (Thanks Teyler/Black_Out!) to read for me since he has a 2.0 cable. Once I have that ROM I'm sending it to Acamus for a custom big maps ROM, a knock off of Damian's/02meclipse. Its a late 02 ROM so its the 3 pulse distributor reluctor (Thanks charles and greg) and the 3 bar Evo MDP sensor. Anywho.


Anyone who attempts this should be weary of the main harness. You can tear it when squeezing the ECU out of there and I also warn the bracket its on is sharper then it looks as I got a nice red surprise when thing got tight.

My buddy Connor is my helper on this and he was off doing his own thing for awhile so I took an hour to get started on some of the tedious suspension stuff. Moog endlinks and prothane bushings for the control arms and sway bar is the plan (Front, rear is another story I'll cover later). I cut the links in half then popped them with a 2' break bar just to see how easy it was. The link flexes plenty before it pops but neither are good, they are junk. Come out in about 15 pieces too.


Today, May 25, 2011. Things get real. The engine was out last Thursday but between Rugby and a weekend up north and Connors starter blowing progress slowed. I was pissed, and ready to kick some ass. Went to my shop to kick 'em in the pants to getting my shortblock done. Supposedly it'll be done tomorrow, if not, Friday. He said he'd give me the final price by the end of the day but he never called so I'm going to have to wait til Friday to pick it up anyway. That's fine because I've got plenty to do. After that I went to mitsu and ordered the rollers and speedo gear for the Wavetrac. Between trips I managed this:





Stock pumpkin vs Wavetrac. The Wavetrac is a 12 lb tank. I now understand why people break these things so often (my stocker is officially up for sale). The sun gears are tiny, and worthless. The pin that holds the sun axle in also likes to fall out so I'm surprised people don't throw them more often. There's an awesome thread on the differential stuff here: http://www.club3g.com/forum/3g-eclipse-gt-gts-specific/147925-limited-slip-differential-install.html Thanks to everyone who is and will be helping me and contributing info to that.

Anywho, that's all I got for now. Plan for tomorrow is still a bit up the in air. I'll know better what's next when the engine is home but for tomorrow I'm thinking I'll do the control arm and sway bar bushings and install/grease the Moogs then start wiring up the gauges. The biggest thorn in my side right now is the exhaust. Since I'm going all custom I have to fab it up and get lots of costly materials. Furthermore the fucking o2 sensors are seized in tighter then I knew what to do about so I had to cut them off the car. Still have to get them off the exhaust so I'll have to nuke them with pb blaster and put a big bar and hope they pop. Otherwise its smooth sailing ahead. Differential bits come Monday so I'll zip that up then and hopefully begin assembling the 74. Friday I'm working on the car all day so I'll get as much done then as I can and hopefully get it running sometime late next week.

More pics and stories to come!
 

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Guru of Rice!!!!!!
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damn youve been doing some insane work i cant wait till you finish up this build i wanna see the numbers on this thing
 

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Fuck salt.
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You actually do have an eclipse Justin!! I thought you've been lying the whole time!! :fawk:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
damn youve been doing some insane work i cant wait till you finish up this build i wanna see the numbers on this thing
400whp and 400+wtq is the plan. It is more then doable with the turbo I'm building, people on Tuners have pushed it deep into the 500whp range. I'll be making 400 on a much smaller level of psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
why not just buy new o2 sensors? have fun with the build!
Thanks. A pair of o2's is like 100$ at the cheapest, and that's ordering off rock auto and waiting for shipping. It'd be cheap and easy to put a wrench on the current ones and reusing them. Plus I guarantee they work, some of the replacement stuff is hit and miss.
 

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Guru of Rice!!!!!!
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9,677 Posts
400whp and 400+wtq is the plan. It is more then doable with the turbo I'm building, people on Tuners have pushed it deep into the 500whp range. I'll be making 400 on a much smaller level of psi.
damn man thats insane i want to see this finished lol
Will you finish it before Charles
 

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R.I.P. silverside
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damn man thats insane i want to see this finished lol
Will you finish it before Charles
:rolleyes: rsingh12, I'll be polite here and say to you don't try to start any drama by bringing my 3G build into this as there isn't any competition or race between myself and anyone here. Sure he'll finish it before me and I hope he does. You know I'm building 2 other cars by the same person which is my focus right now. This is Silvertune's build thread and let's be happy for him while watching his work. Let Silvertune do his thing, I'll do mine and you do yours.


Now,

Congrats Justin :). I'm glad to see your progress as I know it's been a struggle but without struggle there is no progress. I'll be watching this thread and if I could further assist you in any way let me know. I'm kind of slow when it comes to answering PM's but you know I got a lot of stuff going on ;). Keep up the good work, I want to see your 3G hitting the streets :yesway::yesway:
 

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passport applied for
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Deffinately happy for you after reading all your posts the last few months, keep us updated..
 

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Guru of Rice!!!!!!
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:rolleyes: rsingh12, I'll be polite here and say to you don't try to start any drama by bringing my 3G build into this as there isn't any competition or race between myself and anyone here. Sure he'll finish it before me and I hope he does. You know I'm building 2 other cars by the same person which is my focus right now. This is Silvertune's build thread and let's be happy for him while watching his work. Let Silvertune do his thing, I'll do mine and you do yours.


Woah, Charles didnt mean it like that man. I have nothing but respect for you man I was just trying to be kind of funny. Sorry for the mis-understanding. Didnt mean to disrespect you
 

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R.I.P. silverside
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Woah, Charles didnt mean it like that man. I have nothing but respect for you man I was just trying to be kind of funny. Sorry for the mis-understanding. Didnt mean to disrespect you
Aight man, it's just that kind of humor has run it's course long ago. We're good.


Silvertune do your thing bro. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
:wub: Oh man guys. :lol: I hold no animosity for any other 3ger here except maybe a few of the idiots poluting the forum with their misleaded antics. By that I mean I am in no way competing with anyone, least of all Charles. I have a great respect for what he is doing and have learned through my own endeavors about taking ones time. I have afterall been working on this since June 15th 2009. That day I bought a 6g72, a hoist and a stand and began learning. Honestly I say for any noob starting from zero (and I'm sure some of you remember when I was there) who actually wants to get somewhere and get good with this car, just dive in. There's nothing you can do turning bolts that you can't fix or undo or put back together. Might be stressful, but as long as you don't cut something unreplaceable then you'll make it out fine. Reading is/has taught me the conceptual stuff, but for everything I know about the 3g I got from pulling apart my own car and others. Hands on is the way to go.

Anyway, I wasn't kidding when I said I was going all out on this. Yesterday was huge, here's a few shitty pics of what's going on.

I spent a good 4 hours at the junkyard on Monday looking through suspension setups. I wanted a few parts for my own so I could trade out some bushings ahead of time. Didn't find anything worth pulling, so I went ahead and ripped mine apart anyway. I must comment though, after looking through thousands (literally thousands) of suspension setups I have to compliment the 3g's. Geometrically its a great design, tubular rear arms, rigid geometry, the fault is the soft stock bushings. These things kill the handling of the car, along with a set of soft springs and shocks. However even with the stock springs and struts its extremely improveable. This is how:

Rip the worthless shit out. A full prothane bushing set for our suspension goes for under 200$. If you go for the gold get 2 pairs of GST upper knuckle bushings too to do the upper and lower bushings on the rear knuckles to perfect it (this is what I've done/am doing).

For anyone whose done motor mounts, particularly if they've sleeved them tight, take the difference that gave between stock and apply it to every bushing in the suspension. The difference is astounding.

For those who have the 00 like me, we have a slightly different control arm setup in front then the rest of the years. The big bushing has an outer sleeve but not inner. The peg on the C-arm rids rid on the bushing (other years have an inner sleeve too). This allows the peg to rust and bind up the bushing and tear it up. The small bushing has an inner sleeve but not an outer sleeve so you can press it out and pull the rubber out of cut the entire thing out.

The previous owner did a lot with sound, so there was a lot of wiring that I've been cleaning up. There's one hole in the firewall intend to use for the gauges, of course I may need to make it a bit bigger. The MN rust is killing me, though I'm getting rid of a lot of it.


Back to the C arms. For anyone wanting to do bushings, you don't need a press. It makes life hella easier but the second option is the employment of hole saws. I have 3 sizes that I've done the whole suspenion with. I'll need one more to do the rear upper arms later this month. The trick is at Ace Hardware, their Bi-metal saws are unstoppable and super durable. I've put them through 1.5" of solid aluminum and multiple bushings without issue. Only bit of warning is in any case that the bushing starts to burn or melt, DO NOT BREATHE THE FUMES. It is insanely toxic, it can kill you. That said I've never had an issue.


While doing the control arm bushings it is stupid not to do the front sway bar bushings too. They're a whopping 10$, and I garentee your stocker are shot. I could move my bar all over the place, as well as bend the crap out of the endlinks.





With the prothanes in it is rock solid, I can't wait to drive it. (camara is sidways, the bushing comes out the bottom)

Prothane everything with Moog endlinks freshly installed and greased, all set to go.


My 3 gauge pod was painted silver by the PO, so I went and returned it to black with some Krylon Fushion, very good plastic paint when applied right.

I used this same paint on my bumper inserts 2 years ago and it hasn't chipped or decolored even after 2 winters.

Next task, finishing the injector harness. On GT's the rear harness is a completely seperate entity that you can unplug. I had an extra one so I hacked that up ahead of time, so I had to finish the front now that its high impedence duties are over with.

10 ohm 20 watt resistors bought off amazon. Only get the 20 watt, 10 watt will blow during extended use.

I used to hate wiring and electronics. Now I don't mind at all. I've done probably 6 hours of soldering this week alone.

Resistor goes on the hot/red wire. I'm also switching out the injector clips to run my PT 550's.

Finished product. I taped the resistors to the plastic casing for the time being which is why its so ugly. Once I have the clips on the injectors I'll cut the tape off and place them permanantly in the perfect place so they won't pull on the wires. It'll look nicer too. Everything was shrink wrapped with super nice heat shrink, its a clear kind that melts on the inside when it shrinks so it makes a perfect seal.


For anyone who gets a mishimoto radiator... bring your dremel. The stock fans fit, almost. You'll have to enlarge the holes in the mounting tabs at least a little. I got the drivers fan to bolt up just fine but the bottom 2 mounts on the passenger fan were off so I had to cut it a little. Also, don't be freaked out if a few fins have been brushed when you open it up brand new. Its packaged wonderfully but even though mine was brand spanking new a few fins were mildly tweaked in shipping.


Finished product.


That's all for yesterday's progress. Now I'm off to go pick up the shortblock. Yes, for real, time to pick this mofo up.
 

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REDLINE ALL GEARS
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Did you have to drop the cross member to remove the front sway bar
 

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REDLINE ALL GEARS
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Yeah drop the cross member then the control arms. 10 bolts total, big parts but very easy.

Hmmmm seems easy enough. Probably have to have something support the engine while dropping the cross member. We shall see
 
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