I personally have an PSB subwoofer, which I really dig for the money. There are a ton of options though. What's your budget?
Budget Powered Subwoofer Recommendations.
Looking for recommendations on a powered subwoofer 10-12" down firing.
Receiver is Onkyo TX-SR674: 95 Watt - 8 Ohm - THD0.08 % - 7 channel(s) (Surround)
Thanks!
Receiver is Onkyo TX-SR674: 95 Watt - 8 Ohm - THD0.08 % - 7 channel(s) (Surround)
Thanks!
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
My budget would be somewhere between $200-$400. I just can't justify my sub being the most expensive part of my theater. I've gone to Fry's, Best Buy, etc to compare specs and prices but I've seen anywhere from $120 upwards of $3000. Ultimately I want something that produces a good string rumble but it has to be tight. I cannot stand "loose" bass. I like it to hit and stop. Everywhere I've been that has equipment setup for testing has so many things blaring around the store that it is pointless.
What makes you fond of the PSB? I know a while back I was looking at purchasing a SVSound PB10 but decided against it due to living in an apartment. Now that I am in a house, I can thump away.
What makes you fond of the PSB? I know a while back I was looking at purchasing a SVSound PB10 but decided against it due to living in an apartment. Now that I am in a house, I can thump away.
Hmmm this seems to be the accepted recommendation of AVS Forums for my price range.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=407
Driver Size 12"
Driver Quantity 1
Driver Excursion 15.1mm 1-Way Linear
Total Driver Linear Displacement 1645.92cm^3
Room Tuning
20Hz
Frequency Response (+/-3dB) 18-100Hz
18!
Amplifier RMS Power 200w
Cabinet Type Vented
Shipping Weight 71Lbs
Internal Size 2.45cF
External Size 3.70cF
Width 18.00"
Height 18"
Depth 21.5"
Vent Size 4"
Amplifier Voltage 115/230V
Included Crossover Yes
Crossover Frequencies 40~160Hz
Phase Switch Yes
Line Level Input Yes
RCA Level Input Yes
Level Control Yes
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=2&products_id=407
Driver Size 12"
Driver Quantity 1
Driver Excursion 15.1mm 1-Way Linear
Total Driver Linear Displacement 1645.92cm^3
Room Tuning
20Hz
Frequency Response (+/-3dB) 18-100Hz
18!Amplifier RMS Power 200w
Cabinet Type Vented
Shipping Weight 71Lbs
Internal Size 2.45cF
External Size 3.70cF
Width 18.00"
Height 18"
Depth 21.5"
Vent Size 4"
Amplifier Voltage 115/230V
Included Crossover Yes
Crossover Frequencies 40~160Hz
Phase Switch Yes
Line Level Input Yes
RCA Level Input Yes
Level Control Yes
Interesting. It's vented, but I wonder if it is a bandpass enclosure. From the sound of it, you would seem to favor a direct firing woofer, as they are typically the tighest. I wonder if you can find somewhere to listen to this first?
I bought a cheap JBL E150P a couple of years back and am using it in the office now My office mates hate me but it's pretty good for a $150 sub
My office mates hate me but it's pretty good for a $150 sub 
Just real quickly, For a recommendation to carry any real weight, I would need to know firstly the main use. You have specified home theater and not mentioned music system so it will be a pick from list B, Ok.
Next, the size of the room and whether or not you will be allowed to correctly place the sub. This will tell the size and power of sub you need.
Then I need to know what type of speakers you are using as your mains. The brand and model to know whether they are full range and what db roll-off their crossovers use. This will narrow down the field and tell me where the sub needs to start its x-over. And or if you need a sub with an adjustable band pass.
If you don’t care about any of this just find a good buy and go with it.
Next, the size of the room and whether or not you will be allowed to correctly place the sub. This will tell the size and power of sub you need.
Then I need to know what type of speakers you are using as your mains. The brand and model to know whether they are full range and what db roll-off their crossovers use. This will narrow down the field and tell me where the sub needs to start its x-over. And or if you need a sub with an adjustable band pass.
If you don’t care about any of this just find a good buy and go with it.
The main use would be for movies and videogames. The living room is roughly 18 x 26. The lowest part of the vaulted ceiling is 8 feet. The highest part of the vaulted ceiling is ~10'6". Unless my math has gone to pot that comes out to roughly 3952 cubic feet. The room also has opening to the foyer for the front door, to the dining room, and to the hallway leading back to the bedroom/bathrooms. So all in all with a volume like that dual subs would probably be best but not currently in the budget.
Placement isn't a problem. Most people suggest placing a sub in a corner which was going to be my first location but I was going to move it around to see what sounded better to me.
My speakers are:
Infinity Primus 150 x 2 for rear surround
Placement isn't a problem. Most people suggest placing a sub in a corner which was going to be my first location but I was going to move it around to see what sounded better to me.
My speakers are:
Infinity Primus 150 x 2 for rear surround
Infinity Primus C25 for the centerDescription: Two-way, reflex-loaded, magnetically shielded, stand-mounted loudspeaker. Drive-units: ¾" "Metal Matrix"-dome tweeter, 5¼" "Metal Matrix"-cone woofer. Crossover frequency: 3.3kHz. Crossover slopes: 24dB/octave. Frequency response: 58Hz-20kHz, ±3dB. Sensitivity: 88dB/2.83V/m. Nominal impedance: 8 ohms. Recommended amplification: 10-100W.
Infinity Primus 360 x 2 for fronts
Thanks. :wavey:Description: Three-way, reflex-loaded, floorstanding loudspeaker. Drive-units: ¾" (19mm) MMD tweeter, 4" (100mm) MMD-cone midrange unit, two 6½" (165mm) MMD-cone woofers. Crossover frequencies: 350Hz, 3.3kHz. Crossover slopes: 24dB/octave. Frequency response: 38Hz–20kHz, ±3dB. Sensitivity: 93dB/2.83V/m. Nominal impedance: 8 ohms. Recommended amplification: 10–200W.
I would look closely at the Infinity PS 212.
It would be a good match with what you are running now. It is a front firing design and if you placed it on a hard surface like a piece of flag stone near (adjust for sound) the low wall you can take advantage of the slope of the ceiling to expand the wave front. Placing it on carpet will allow the box to move too much and diminish its efficiency slightly.
In the future if you feel you need more base for a Jurassic Park weekend or something you could add a twin easily.
I know you had wanted a down firing sub, is this because you have hard wood floors? If so I will keep looking for you but you know we may be stretching your budget with a quality down firing sub.
It would be a good match with what you are running now. It is a front firing design and if you placed it on a hard surface like a piece of flag stone near (adjust for sound) the low wall you can take advantage of the slope of the ceiling to expand the wave front. Placing it on carpet will allow the box to move too much and diminish its efficiency slightly.
In the future if you feel you need more base for a Jurassic Park weekend or something you could add a twin easily.
I know you had wanted a down firing sub, is this because you have hard wood floors? If so I will keep looking for you but you know we may be stretching your budget with a quality down firing sub.
Nah I wanted down firing because my buddy had one and it sounded great in his smaller living room. He does have hardwood but I have carpet. Eventually I plan on getting hardwoods but for the short term it will be in a carpeted area.
Sometimes subs work better in a large room than a small one. A low frequency wave front will find the closest hard surface and propagate along it, the greater the expanse the surface has the better the wave will couple to the room.
If your bud will let you test his sub in your place then you can use it to define a performance base line.
Also your mains need to be set on isolation spikes if they are not already. Use the ones that go all the way through your carpet. The reason here is not to isolate them so much as to stabilize the columns from vibrating on the carpet. Most Infinity speakers can benefit from this and from increasing the mass of the enclosures with a chunk of steel screwed to the bottom or lower back.
If your bud will let you test his sub in your place then you can use it to define a performance base line.
Also your mains need to be set on isolation spikes if they are not already. Use the ones that go all the way through your carpet. The reason here is not to isolate them so much as to stabilize the columns from vibrating on the carpet. Most Infinity speakers can benefit from this and from increasing the mass of the enclosures with a chunk of steel screwed to the bottom or lower back.
^^ :nod:
I found the Tannoys I have sound tighter and have better bass response one I got the spikes through the carpets and leveled.
I found the Tannoys I have sound tighter and have better bass response one I got the spikes through the carpets and leveled.
I was going to suggest an Infiniti sub too, Broman. Not because of anything WW said, but basically because they're adequate, inexpensive and they'll match your speakers visually.
All of your crossover settings will be done in your Onkyo, I imagine. You can also troll avsforums.com for people selling their subs. You can find killer deals on good equipment. I think I saw someone selling a Def tech powercube the other day. *swoon*.
All of your crossover settings will be done in your Onkyo, I imagine. You can also troll avsforums.com for people selling their subs. You can find killer deals on good equipment. I think I saw someone selling a Def tech powercube the other day. *swoon*.
All of your crossover settings will be done in your Onkyo, I imagine.
What do you mean by that?
The Infinity Primus 360’s don’t have separate driver terminals so they cant be bi-amped. They have an internal fixed cross over.
What a cross over does is split the spectrum of sound coming from the amp like a prism separates light. The highs get sent to the tweeters the midrange gets sent to the mid range speakers and the low frequencies get sent to the woofers. The roll-off curve defines how and where the mid range speaker gradually stops working and the woofer takes over. The smoother this transition happens the more accurate the reproduction of sound.
When you are using mains that have a low frequency driver it is important to have your separate sub unit conform to the same roll-off curve. If you don’t the woofers in the mains and the subs will be working agenst each other for all but a tiny bit of the frequency range they cover.
Its like this… On a tandem bike both peddlers need to pedals at the same rpm’s if one is slower, then the faster one is wasting energy to make the other one go faster. Besides loosing energy the sound will be muddy. Like when you us a 10 inch and a 12 inch together in the same car.
Well, I ran across an ad for Fry's and they had my towers (primus 362) on sale for $99. So I picked up two over lunch. In a 7.1 surround sound setup, do the sides or rears tend to receive more activity throughout the mids and highs? I figure the towers have more capability than the bookshelf style primus 150's and should be put in the setup in which they will do the most good.
Thanks.
Thanks.
i have 2 15 inch comp kicker subs hooked up to an old school rockford fosgate p400.2...makes alarms sound everytime!!!!!!!!!!!got the system cheap to about 300 dollas
Here it is...
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110705
Here it is...
http://www.club3g.com/forum/showthread.php?t=110705
We're talking about home stereo systems, not car audio.
Save the lecture, Teech. I know what a crossover is.What do you mean by that?
The Infinity Primus 360’s don’t have separate driver terminals so they cant be bi-amped. They have an internal fixed cross over.
What a cross over does is split the spectrum of sound coming from the amp like a prism separates light. The highs get sent to the tweeters the midrange gets sent to the mid range speakers and the low frequencies get sent to the woofers. The roll-off curve defines how and where the mid range speaker gradually stops working and the woofer takes over. The smoother this transition happens the more accurate the reproduction of sound.
When you are using mains that have a low frequency driver it is important to have your separate sub unit conform to the same roll-off curve. If you don’t the woofers in the mains and the subs will be working agenst each other for all but a tiny bit of the frequency range they cover.
Its like this… On a tandem bike both peddlers need to pedals at the same rpm’s if one is slower, then the faster one is wasting energy to make the other one go faster. Besides loosing energy the sound will be muddy. Like when you us a 10 inch and a 12 inch together in the same car.
I meant exactly what I wrote. The Onyko, his receiver (obviously somewhat current, if it's a 7.1) will have internal settings for what frequencies go where. He'll choose "Subwoofer crossover: 80hz" in his receiver setup more than likely. He'll probably also choose what size his mains are, thereby choosing their crossover point as well.
:rofl:...lmao oh my badWe're talking about home stereo systems, not car audio.
Save the lecture, Teech. I know what a crossover is.
I meant exactly what I wrote. The Onyko, his receiver (obviously somewhat current, if it's a 7.1) will have internal settings for what frequencies go where. He'll choose "Subwoofer crossover: 80hz" in his receiver setup more than likely. He'll probably also choose what size his mains are, thereby choosing their crossover point as well.
Perhaps YOU would do that, but then you would be wasting the low-end (frequency) potential of the 360’s.
The very reason for using a full range speaker for the mains is to take advantage of their low-end drivers. Many people believe that low frequencies are non directional, and it is true for the most part BUT the human ear is more remarkable than was earlier (the late 50’s and 60’s is when bell labs did most if the research and established the foundation for modern day acoustics.) believed. For example it is now known that low frequency sound acting on the sinus cavities in the face are transmitted to the back of the ear drum shifted in phase and are interpreted by the brain to help establish location.
In small rooms (living rooms) having full range speakers placed properly can and does create a sound stage that images events down to 60 hertz or so. In a home theatre, set up this way, and using recording techniques used in modern movies the exact location of an explosion for example can be rendered surprisingly well.
You need to face the fact that you are ignorant and do need to be schooled.
What you are describing that some receivers have is not a crossover it is a high cut control that attenuates all but the low frequency.
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Club
A forum community dedicated to Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, turbos, engine swaps, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Recommended Communities
