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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Most of you guys know my stage two setup by now. I never got the part throttle misfire figured, because I'm still dead broke from installing this thing. I'm pretty sure it's the TPS or 02's.


The new problem. I got my exhaust fixed and other then part throttle problems my car has 3500 miles on the SDS under 14psi with no problems. It's a friggin champ. I got down here to CA last weekend (moved from Boise elev. 3000 feet) and developed this new trauma. I was racing a GTO onto the freeway from the on ramp, and at about the top of fourth my car stopped accelerating at around 4000 rpms. RPM's wouldn't go any further, car would not accelerate. I let off immediately and checked AFR and temp.....all good. Right after releasing the throttle the car choked its self out. So, I'm cruising in neutral at about 80-90mph and have to coast the car off the freeway, NOT a good thing. I get onto the nearest road and pull over. I tried starting the car while coasting and it would turn and turn but not start. I popped the hood and noticed the hose from my PCV on the rear manifold had smoke coming out of. Not billowing out of the engine bay, but just steady smoke. All I could smell was oil.

No, my PCV was not hooked up to the end of my air filter because I never received the right filter or hardware to connect it from the guy that sold me the kit. My RIPP instructions made no mention of it either. I also read that some people had a breather on it with no problems.

I let the car sit for a few, and then started it. No, SES, vitals all normal. However I have a loud tick (card in bike spokes) noise coming from what sounds like the lifters. It also goes faster with RPMs. I've read about numerous problems with the PCV system but have no definitive ideas. I'm wondering if something could've broke or a gasket could've opened up from the pressure. My car is driving fine (I have no choice) other then the noise. I'm going to hook up my Oil PSI guage tonight and see what it reads. Oh, and the car occasinally stutters at idle and has blue smoke puff out of the tail pipe. No codes, no change in temps, nothing. I'm confused. I checked the oil and coolant and both look fine. I pulled my plug boots and have seen no oil either. I have not had the chance to pull the plugs. So, what could it be...


God I wish I had the money to update to the new ripp system.....
 

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are you burning oil or blowing oil? are you sure the oil isnt coming out of the cap and onto the manifold and burning? i noticed when i started boosting over 8psi the stock PCV cant handle it and pressurizes the engine causing oil to come out of the oil filler cap. i bought those krank vents that were mentioned and my problem was fixed.
 

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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter #3
I was reading up on those and the new ripp upgraded PCV deal trying to make sense of the information overload. The smoke is coming from my tail pipe, nothing in the engine bay. The only time smoke came out of the rear valve cover spout (the one that used to dump into the intake) was when the car choked its self out. I'm hoping it's a simple problem like I blew the stock PCV and it's recirc'ing oil into the intake, causing it to burn off into the exhaust. I don't know what the noise could be though. After searching through threads it sounds like there is a 1:10 chance it's a blown headgasket, or spun bearing. :ugh: However, there are no SES codes to support that, the coolant and oil are normal and smell normal, and my car is not overheating. It is slowly using up oil though. I was a quart low after 3500 on the SDS. I've noticed the faint smell of engine oil during driving before, but never had visible indicator's, i.e. smoke. I'm convinced it's a PCV issue, and praying that it's a simple part that need fixed.

One other worry is that MAYBE a valve cover gasket blew, and oil is leaking down into one of my spark plug holes. :confused: you think?

I'm going to hit up a SoCAL3g meet tonight and hang out in SD, tommorow, hopefully the guys will help me figure it out.
 

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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter #4
On a better note..... After getting my flex section fixed on my exhaust. I blew the gasket to the 2.25" stock catback. I made friends with a guy in Boise who had a back yard exhaust shop right before I moved. He made a 3" catback, with a 3"X10" resonator and Flowmaster 40, to fit my car for $40 and a ride down the road. :twothumb: I swear to god my car picked up 50hp with this one mod. That stock exhaust was as one member put it, "Like putting a condom over a fire hose, and poking a pinhole in it." lol.
 

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turbo? unf unf!
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busted compression ring?
 

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Never Too Much HP
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ticking that comes from the engine and varries with RPM is usally a spun bearing (rod) or a lifter. As for the oil problem i would do a leak down test on the motor and that will tell you if you scuffed a wall. If she leak tests fine, then the oil problem is coming from your breater issue. 1 qt of oil every 3000 miles is not the end of the world but its some to take a look at before it becomes a bigger problem. Also try taking a long rod (like off your jack handle) and setting it on top of the valve covers while the engine is running. put your ear right on the handle and listen. move the handle around to listen to see if the ticking gets louder or softer. Also put it down by the oil pan and listen to the bottom end. Did you hook up your oil pressure gauge yet? Ticking is never a good sound though. I would look into that problem first or the leak test and go from there. i think the ticking might lead you to your other problems.
 

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Ah yes...
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TheFranchise said:
are you burning oil or blowing oil? are you sure the oil isnt coming out of the cap and onto the manifold and burning? i noticed when i started boosting over 8psi the stock PCV cant handle it and pressurizes the engine causing oil to come out of the oil filler cap. i bought those krank vents that were mentioned and my problem was fixed.
:agreed: Krank Vents work great. :yesway:
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
What is the "Krank Vents" you all speak of, it sounds like some german guy "Vee-dub holding it down on the engineering tip".

All you have to do is run a hose into somewhere before your blower, it's just a simple PCV recirc, if you want to get real fancy get a catch can.
 

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Tearstone said:
What is the "Krank Vents" you all speak of, it sounds like some german guy "Vee-dub holding it down on the engineering tip".

All you have to do is run a hose into somewhere before your blower, it's just a simple PCV recirc, if you want to get real fancy get a catch can.
the Krank Vent is a FI designed PCV type thingy that prevents boost overun of the stock PCV (front manifold) and/or intake breather (rear manifold) it keeps them operating as 1 way street as designed. boost over approx 8psi will seep in the front and out the rear manifolds. this causes pressurizing the front manifold and rear. i ay 8psi b/c i never noticed oil leaking from my filler cap until i upped boost past this to double digits. the Krank Vent is rated over 30 psi or something like that and prevent all back positive pressure from the intake manifold back to the front manifold.
 

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Kampfbereit
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17,852 Posts
TheFranchise said:
the Krank Vent is a FI designed PCV type thingy that prevents boost overun of the stock PCV (front manifold) and/or intake breather (rear manifold) it keeps them operating as 1 way street as designed. boost over approx 8psi will seep in the front and out the rear manifolds. this causes pressurizing the front manifold and rear. i ay 8psi b/c i never noticed oil leaking from my filler cap until i upped boost past this to double digits. the Krank Vent is rated over 30 psi or something like that and prevent all back positive pressure from the intake manifold back to the front manifold.
Is this something that would come stock on the VR-4 per say, or what is it they use to get around this problem?

There is a line that goes between both heads stock to balance out pressure on both sides.

Do you have pictures of these "Krank Vents"? I'm a better visual person at these things.
 

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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter #14
I have the RIPP (weisco) 9.5:1 forged pistons. What could have caused a spun bearing? I haven't got the oil psi hooked up, hoping I have time tommorow.
 

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CIAGENT said:
I have the RIPP (weisco) 9.5:1 forged pistons. What could have caused a spun bearing? I haven't got the oil psi hooked up, hoping I have time tommorow.
the usual cause for a spun bearing is low oil pressure/low oil level, improper clearances, improperly torqued main caps, and i suppose that heavey detonation could cause a spun bearing as well. that lack of acceleration at 4k rpm could have been due to very heavey detonation or a few other issues which include misfire due to spark supression.
 

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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter #16
I changed my oil yesterday, it was looking a little dark, however, no metal shavings.

I pulled the front plugs and cylinder number 2 was a little oil fouled. I did compression checks on all three cylinders and this is what I got:
2: 180
4: 168
6: 180

My oil pressure guage at idle, once the car was warm was 25psi. I haven't driven it yet though.

I'm not sure what to think. What do you guys think the noise could be, if it is in the valve train?
 

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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter #18
I had my whole engine redone. They honed the walls, bored them .020 over, balanced and decked the block. The heads are also P&P'd to the lower intake manifold. I'm starting to doubt the quality of the shops work after dealing with them. I paid 6 f'in K for all the work. This did not include parts, just labor, engine removal, block and head work, lsd/clutch/flywheel install, reassembly, and install, plus a few things like bearings and seals. I'm a little worried about the compression numbers. Heaven's knows when I'll have time to pull the manifold and check all six. The only thing is, the manual says to let the engine warm up before doing it, I did it on a cold motor.

The only thing I've seen that could've been done wrong on my end during the install is the crank pulley. The manual says not to rotate the crank pulley counter-clock wise, and i remember us doing that when we were trying to get the bolt loose on the end. We ended up doing it your way: torque wrench braced on floor, turn key over with no ignition, worked like a charm. Could that have messed anything up? Timing? Crank position? I figured every thing would stay in sync since the belts were all attatched.
 

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Stage 1 SDS @11+ psi
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3,018 Posts
#4 usually can tell you the health of your engine. It may be within spec, but the fact that it is lower than the other two, is reason to have some concern. Do the test again with the engine warm.

Burning oil is never a good sign: chipped piston, bend valve, cracked ring... who knows. If you want, you can take it to a dyno, but I'm starting to think you need to take appart the engine.
 

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Kampfbereit
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repforenzo said:
#4 usually can tell you the health of your engine. It may be within spec, but the fact that it lower than the other two, is reason to have some concern. Do the test again with the engine warm.

Burning oil is never a good sign: chipped piston, bend valve, cracked ring... who knows. If you want, you can take it to a dyno, but I'm starting to think you need to take appart the engine.
Actually if you have a different upper intake plenum that can totally change. Rulez was running normal compression on #4 after he blew his engine with the Diamante intake manifold.
 
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