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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, it's an 01 GT 3.0. I have codes p0335 and p0340. Not sure how it's possible to have a cam sensor code when there is no cam sensor, but I'll bite since I don't know this engine.

Driving the other night, doing 40 in 4th on an on-ramp, go to accelerate and the car starts bucking. Now it randomly does it. If I am idling, it will shut down. Before I bought the car, it sat for 2 years. Before that, it got a new distributor put on it. However, the reluctor wheels had to be swapped because it wouldn't start with the new one. This was done by a mechanic with 20 + years experience. All I have done so far is plugs and wires, a heavy seafoam treatment through the vacuum system, through the fuel system, and through the oil over 2 changes due to sitting for so long.

I am lost as to where to begin with this. Don't really deal with this on 15L diesels. If I'm being stupid here, feel free to point it out. But any help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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I have both of those codes on my 2.4 rs. I swapped the pcm because old one fried. Upon installing pcm it gave those codes and havent been able to clear them. Though. No symptoms show at all
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's either not reading them correctly or they could have been hard codes thrown by the car you took the pcm from. A reflash or hard reboot may take care of that. Mine is actually seeing a problem. Will diving in over the long holiday weekend.
 

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Just know that when you get both cam and crank codes, it usually (but not always) means timing belt issues. Perhaps jumping a tooth or more, auto-tensioner issue etc. You need to check your timing marks ASAP!


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Timing belt is tight. It runs absolutely perfect except when it bucks. My other car will be up and running tomorrow though. So the 3g is getting parked and ready for some major work. New ckp sensor, new distributor, timing belt, water pump and tensioners, new convertible top (rear window is out), new seats if I can find them, new carpet, all dash panels. Or maybe just park it, yank the engine and interior, and get ready for new strut towers and paint.
 

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Stage 1 SDS @11+ psi
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Timing belt is tight. It runs absolutely perfect except when it bucks. My other car will be up and running tomorrow though. So the 3g is getting parked and ready for some major work. New ckp sensor, new distributor, timing belt, water pump and tensioners, new convertible top (rear window is out), new seats if I can find them, new carpet, all dash panels. Or maybe just park it, yank the engine and interior, and get ready for new strut towers and paint.
A tight timing belt doesn't mean it didn't jumped a tooth or more. Got to check the marks.... I wouldn't drive it until that was confirmed. But it looks like you are going to do that work anyway. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A tight timing belt doesn't mean it didn't jumped a tooth or more. Got to check the marks.... I wouldn't drive it until that was confirmed. But it looks like you are going to do that work anyway. (y)
I get what you're saying now. I failed to think about that. I haven't worked on a gas engine to this depth in years. I work on semi's for a living. No timing belts or chains to jump. It's all gear driven and those don't jump. I bought this car as a project because I never got to build my last import. Kids. Now they are old enough to learn and help. Plus $750 for running Spyder GT with a manual gearbox was hard to pass up. Thanks for the advice. I may fix it for now and enjoy the top down this summer and get started on the rest over the winter.
 

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Timing belt is tight. It runs absolutely perfect except when it bucks. My other car will be up and running tomorrow though. So the 3g is getting parked and ready for some major work. New ckp sensor, new distributor, timing belt, water pump and tensioners, new convertible top (rear window is out), new seats if I can find them, new carpet, all dash panels. Or maybe just park it, yank the engine and interior, and get ready for new strut towers and paint.
Go the whole 9 yards and pull it. Been having alot of fun with mine
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Go the whole 9 yards and pull it. Been having alot of fun with mine
I am still working out the details of space first. I don't have a garage at home and waiting for permission to do everything at my employers shop. I would have to store the car and everything there while the work is completed and not sure if they are willing to allow for that. If they approve it, I will be sourcing the new engine first in order to have it ready to go in, along with all of the turbo piping, after the body work, paint, and top are done.
 
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