This just happened with my car took it to dealership because too big of a job for me but they replaced camshaft, crankshaft sensors and distributor. They tried to say bad ecu as well but we knew it wasnt so dont chnage that
Cam and crank sensor codes
Hello everyone!
I have recently been battling cam and crank sensor codes for my 01 GT Spyder. I replaced the distributor but no dice. I then had a local shop look into the sensors themselves and the timing belt but they didn’t find anything and suggested that it was probably a bad ECM. Does anyone know how much this might cost to repair?
I have recently been battling cam and crank sensor codes for my 01 GT Spyder. I replaced the distributor but no dice. I then had a local shop look into the sensors themselves and the timing belt but they didn’t find anything and suggested that it was probably a bad ECM. Does anyone know how much this might cost to repair?
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Gotcha. I replaced the distributor a week or two ago and am having the sensors replaced now so hopefully that fixes the issueThis just happened with my car took it to dealership because too big of a job for me but they replaced camshaft, crankshaft sensors and distributor. They tried to say bad ecu as well but we knew it wasnt so dont chnage that
Any distributor bought now a days, geez i sound old, has the wrong reluctor wheel inside of it. There is a 4 prong pin reluctor wheel for 02 and up. If you have anything under then yours is a single prong pin reluctor wheel. You'll need to swap the wheels to fix this. I literally just did this for the same reason. It's very easy to do. Hopefully you kept your old distributor. I didn't lol and had to source another member here who had some extra ones.
The reluctor wheel sends the signal to work with the camshaft signal. Replacing fixed mine, codes went away and car runs perfect. It won't necessarily hurt that much but it's also not good.
The reluctor wheel sends the signal to work with the camshaft signal. Replacing fixed mine, codes went away and car runs perfect. It won't necessarily hurt that much but it's also not good.
Sadly, I don’t have the old distributor. One of the shops said that they heard a noise coming from inside the timing cover so I’m wondering if the belt chewed up one of the sensors and it’s nocking around in thereAny distributor bought now a days, geez i sound old, has the wrong reluctor wheel inside of it. There is a 4 prong pin reluctor wheel for 02 and up. If you have anything under then yours is a single prong pin reluctor wheel. You'll need to swap the wheels to fix this. I literally just did this for the same reason. It's very easy to do. Hopefully you kept your old distributor. I didn't lol and had to source another member here who had some extra ones.
The reluctor wheel sends the signal to work with the camshaft signal. Replacing fixed mine, codes went away and car runs perfect. It won't necessarily hurt that much but it's also not good.
I know this thread is almost two years old, but I'm possibly replacing my distributor now for 2000 V6 GT. I want to make sure I purchase the right one, how can you identify the correct reluctor? I ran into the same problem with my crankshaft reluctor ring before, because that's something else Mitsubishi changed over the years.Any distributor bought now a days, geez i sound old, has the wrong reluctor wheel inside of it. There is a 4 prong pin reluctor wheel for 02 and up. If you have anything under then yours is a single prong pin reluctor wheel. You'll need to swap the wheels to fix this. I literally just did this for the same reason. It's very easy to do. Hopefully you kept your old distributor. I didn't lol and had to source another member here who had some extra ones.
The reluctor wheel sends the signal to work with the camshaft signal. Replacing fixed mine, codes went away and car runs perfect. It won't necessarily hurt that much but it's also not good.
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Here's what the two styles of reluctor wheels look like. You need to remove the distributor cap and rotor, then the black plastic dust cover. It's held in place with three small machine screws. There's also a ~1/2" o-ring you don't want to lose.
The top picture is a comparison of the two reluctors. The bottom is an exploded view of a distributor.
![Gas Engineering Machine Auto part Composite material]()
![Automotive tire Gas Font Auto part Screenshot]()
The top picture is a comparison of the two reluctors. The bottom is an exploded view of a distributor.
Thank you! This is super helpful! I will have to look into my problem a but more but im considering buying a re manufactured distributor as this engine was swapped previously and i am unsure if he used the correct distributor. The previous owner did many ******* temporary fixes that could cause tons of problems so he may have swapped the intake manifold and used an incorrect distributor despite it looking like the correct engine. Additionally i may be missing a ground that is near the distributor and that could also be a problem. I know there is meant to be a ground on the back of the intake manifold that mounts to the firewall. Is there another ground near the distributor that i could be missing as well?Here's what the two styles of reluctor wheels look like. You need to remove the distributor cap and rotor, then the black plastic dust cover. It's held in place with three small machine screws. There's also a ~1/2" o-ring you don't want to lose.
The top picture is a comparison of the two reluctors. The bottom is an exploded view of a distributor.
![Gas Engineering Machine Auto part Composite material]()
![Automotive tire Gas Font Auto part Screenshot]()
Good news is, assuming you didn't throw it out, you have the old distributor and can simply swap out the reluctor wheel to the new one, if necessary.
Grounding points need to be maintained just like anything else on your car, except most people don't until a problem arises.
Also, if you think a ground is missing, it will do no harm to add one even if there wasn't one originally.
Grounding points need to be maintained just like anything else on your car, except most people don't until a problem arises.
Also, if you think a ground is missing, it will do no harm to add one even if there wasn't one originally.
Agreed. Now after looking through the circuit diagram I did see that there are two cables from the 7 pin distributor connector that are grounded. Additionally I do not see this ground cable from the FSM. Where does the other end route to?Good news is, assuming you didn't throw it out, you have the old distributor and can simply swap out the reluctor wheel to the new one, if necessary.
Grounding points need to be maintained just like anything else on your car, except most people don't until a problem arises.
Also, if you think a ground is missing, it will do no harm to add one even if there wasn't one originally.
Keeping this thread alive one day after another.
Been busy so the project has sat. I've double checked timing and it's spot on. I've attached images of my timing marks. At this point considering this code keeps reoccurring, I've got to believe this is a fault of my distributor. I did notice the ground terminal of the distributor was on top of the transmission instead of the intake plenum. Relocated the grounds to the proper FSM location and going to see if the issue is somehow still occuring.
Been busy so the project has sat. I've double checked timing and it's spot on. I've attached images of my timing marks. At this point considering this code keeps reoccurring, I've got to believe this is a fault of my distributor. I did notice the ground terminal of the distributor was on top of the transmission instead of the intake plenum. Relocated the grounds to the proper FSM location and going to see if the issue is somehow still occuring.
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Your marks look correct. But I was expecting to see a dimple marking on the crankshaft sprocket tooth. Is the dimple just filled with grease?
I wouldn't replace the distributor a second time. I'd doublecheck the distributor wiring is all correct with no recessed connector pins, frayed wires, etc.
I wouldn't replace the distributor a second time. I'd doublecheck the distributor wiring is all correct with no recessed connector pins, frayed wires, etc.
You are correct there is no notch on one of the teeth like an OEM sprocket. This car sat next to a treeline for years before i started "Restoring" it. The original sprocket had the tabs from the reluctor ring break off inside so i had to buy a new sprocket. Oddly doesn't have the same mark but is the same tooth count and size as OEM just doesn't have a timing indicator.Your marks look correct. But I was expecting to see a dimple marking on the crankshaft sprocket tooth. Is the dimple just filled with grease?
I wouldn't replace the distributor a second time. I'd doublecheck the distributor wiring is all correct with no recessed connector pins, frayed wires, etc.
Going back to the distributor,
I have never actually removed the distributor, I worded it poorly but there was a previous owner who replaced the engine in this eclipse and i have little to zero info on mileage and whats been replaced. I had made a comment wondering if maybe he put a new distributor in here but possibly used the wrong distributor.
I have driven and started the car with this distributor that is in here now. I just wasn't sure if the incorrect distributor reluctor ring would cause codes, let alone even start.
This is why im considering replacing it as the wiring looks undamaged.
Regardless of the engine year, the reluctor wheel MUST match the ECU year.You are correct there is no notch on one of the teeth like an OEM sprocket. This car sat next to a treeline for years before i started "Restoring" it. The original sprocket had the tabs from the reluctor ring break off inside so i had to buy a new sprocket. Oddly doesn't have the same mark but is the same tooth count and size as OEM just doesn't have a timing indicator.
Going back to the distributor,
I have never actually removed the distributor, I worded it poorly but there was a previous owner who replaced the engine in this eclipse and i have little to zero info on mileage and whats been replaced. I had made a comment wondering if maybe he put a new distributor in here but possibly used the wrong distributor.
I have driven and started the car with this distributor that is in here now. I just wasn't sure if the incorrect distributor reluctor ring would cause codes, let alone even start.
This is why im considering replacing it as the wiring looks undamaged.
You'll have to pull each to verify manufacture year.
FYI, car will run with mismatched reluctor, but poorly.
Well I was able to actually drive the car around the neighborhood today. It died on me once after about 8 minutes. I got it back to my driveway and now it will start and idle momentarily before dying. After checking timing, and wiring I'm still getting the two codes, so it would be correct to believe now the distributor is the culprit?Regardless of the engine year, the reluctor wheel MUST match the ECU year.
You'll have to pull each to verify manufacture year.
FYI, car will run with mismatched reluctor, but poorly.
I can definitely pull the distributor off and check to make sure it's the correct distributor.
Oddly though the codes will come up in the pending codes, then after about 3 restarts it will populate into the stored CEL.
Well after finally having time to pull the distributor off it was indeed the wrong version as it had the 2002+ model dizzy.Regardless of the engine year, the reluctor wheel MUST match the ECU year.
You'll have to pull each to verify manufacture year.
FYI, car will run with mismatched reluctor, but poorly.
Now like ive mentioned before, the previous owner has replaced this motor with a used one at some point and i do not know if he got an engine from a 2002+ model. I do however know it has the correct year intake manifold, so im assuming he got a matching year engine and replaced the dizzy with the wrong model, OR there was a chance the previous owner used a 2002+ engine, reused his old intake manifold but never changed the dizzy.
Regardless of that I am replacing it as it has some rust/corrosion forming on the reluctor wheel from the same mouse urine that corroded the intake manifold when it sat.
Another thing i would like to do is verify that i have the correct ECU. I know the ECU is near the glove box and there is a front ECU module in the engine bay fuse box.
How can i go about verifying that i have the correct ECU?
It is unlikely the previous owner also swapped the ECU, rather than reflashing the old one. I base that assumption on the info you gave that you had the car running at some point after buying it. So it's possible the previous owner reflashed the ECU to get it to work with the swapped engine and distributor. If that assumption is correct, then simply replacing the distributor might solve the problem, since you mentioned rust.Well after finally having time to pull the distributor off it was indeed the wrong version as it had the 2002+ model dizzy.
Now like ive mentioned before, the previous owner has replaced this motor with a used one at some point and i do not know if he got an engine from a 2002+ model. I do however know it has the correct year intake manifold, so im assuming he got a matching year engine and replaced the dizzy with the wrong model, OR there was a chance the previous owner used a 2002+ engine, reused his old intake manifold but never changed the dizzy.
Regardless of that I am replacing it as it has some rust/corrosion forming on the reluctor wheel from the same mouse urine that corroded the intake manifold when it sat.
Another thing i would like to do is verify that i have the correct ECU. I know the ECU is near the glove box and there is a front ECU module in the engine bay fuse box.
How can i go about verifying that i have the correct ECU?
Otherwise, you would have to find an early year distributor with the correct reluctor wheel. When researching RockAuto.com, I noticed that they have 2000 v6 distributors with part numbers different from the 2005.
So first you need to determine if your ECU matches your model year OR if it has been reflashed. Then buy a new distributor based on that determination. A new distributor can be modified to match the ECU by swapping in the proper reflector wheel, which is easier than reflashing or swapping the ECU. This assumes the ECU is ok, and if not, it's a whole new ballgame.
I can look up the correct ECU and distributor part numbers based on your VIN number using the official Mitsubishi database software, if you like, just PM me your VIN.
I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say the previous owner did not reflash the ECU as some of the previously done work was very dodgy, and from my understanding out of his capabilities. I will PM you my VINIt is unlikely the previous owner also swapped the ECU, rather than reflashing the old one. I base that assumption on the info you gave that you had the car running at some point after buying it. So it's possible the previous owner reflashed the ECU to get it to work with the swapped engine and distributor. If that assumption is correct, then simply replacing the distributor might solve the problem, since you mentioned rust.
Otherwise, you would have to find an early year distributor with the correct reluctor wheel. When researching RockAuto.com, I noticed that they have 2000 v6 distributors with part numbers different from the 2005.
So first you need to determine if your ECU matches your model year OR if it has been reflashed. Then buy a new distributor based on that determination. A new distributor can be modified to match the ECU by swapping in the proper reflector wheel, which is easier than reflashing or swapping the ECU. This assumes the ECU is ok, and if not, it's a whole new ballgame.
I can look up the correct ECU and distributor part numbers based on your VIN number using the official Mitsubishi database software, if you like, just PM me your VIN.
Just would like to post my results in this thread for those who end up in this same position. I was getting cam and crank codes, timing was okay, new tensioners, belt and crank sensor. Was reduced down to the distributor and pulled it to find that it was the wrong distributor. I was able to run and drive the car with the wrong distributor but it was causing some odd issues of random not wanting to start, sometimes randomly dying, and just other odd end issues. Replaced it and cleared the codes. None have come back yet.
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