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Discussion Starter #1
New to the forum

Started looking around a bit, and have a question to see if there is an "easy" way to verify my timing belt is broke.

Drove my car for an hour after work seemed fine, maybe a little wierd Ideling, but turned it off at the package store, come out and it will not start, cranks (and sounds somewhat different than normal cranking)

Got the ODB2 code P0340 for camshaft sensor, changed that and still in the same boat. I have cranked it a couple times so if my belt is broke i think im out of luck already.:mecry2:

Is removing the valve cover and trying to crank the engine about the easiest way to verify my timing belt is broke?

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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It's like 4 bolts to the upper timing belt cover on the passenger side that you should be able to take off to check . No need to remove the valve cover .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well I got a good look at the timing belt. Does not look broken, but when i crank the engine it does not spin, and the valve's or rocker arm do not move.

So I would assume I have broken teeth on the belt.

Make sense I should have to change timing belt?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well i am getting into my manual/book on this.

Had a questions on what to do for TDC if my belt is already broke?

It says to turn the crankshaft till all marks line up then i have #1 TDC. But my camshaft is not turning due to broken teeth on timing belt (i think that is the prob, i am in the process of totally opeing it up now will let you know what i find:eek3:)

Also saw some recomendations to look into the :"Look in the garage section. There's a how-to on doing the timing belt."... but i am still new to this site and could not totally find it, maybe i need to be a paying member?
 

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Timing belt repair

Just take off the top cover or cut a little window in the cover for viewing. (i broke off my bottom cover.) And replace the lttle. belt and big belt along with the crankshaft position sensorrotate the crank around more than twice when its all said and done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
ok crank turns, cam does not, its timing belt.

1. so i need to figure out how to verify i have #1 piston TDC if my cam wont turn with crank. (cause I can't just line up all timing marks) Do I need to line up crank timing mark and verify with screwdriver in #3 spark plug hole to make sure #3 piston is down all the way?

2. Then need to figure out how, and when to turn cam to line up with marks. Assuming damage is already done to valves, do i just need to remove valve's and head them line up camshaft, then reinstall head and valves? Does it matter if cam is spun CCW or CW? I know Crank has to go CW.

3. Can anyone verify the 2003 Eclipse 2.4L 4 cyl engine is in fact an Interference Engine?

Thanks so much for your help so far, I was a helicopter mechanic in the USN so i'm not worried about the work, just need to get er right. I will also now check out the link to the "garage - timing belt" Thanks again.
 

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1. The timing mark on the crank gives you TDC. That's all you need to set.

2. You can rotate the crank 90 degrees from the timing mark. This will give your pistons clearance from the valves. It doesn't matter which way you turn unless the timing belt is on. Then try to rotate only clockwise.

3. Yes since you cranked it, that's a guaranteed valve destruction. Get a rebuilt head or get yours rebuilt if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
1. The timing mark on the crank gives you TDC. That's all you need to set.

2. You can rotate the crank 90 degrees from the timing mark. This will give your pistons clearance from the valves. It doesn't matter which way you turn unless the timing belt is on. Then try to rotate only clockwise.

3. Yes since you cranked it, that's a guaranteed valve destruction. Get a rebuilt head or get yours rebuilt if possible.
I want to make sure i am doing it right, for #1. crank shaft timing mark lined up can give me either TDC for Compression or TDC for Exhaust. The book says to have it at TDC for compression.

So when timing marks are lined up either #1 piston is TDC in compression, or #4 piston is TDC in compression.

How can i verify if #1 or #4 is TDC in Compression?:scratch: (I would assume TDC compression means the piston is all way up, and TDC exhaust piston is all way down, but not totally sure)

Or does it not matter with my engine if my engine has #1 or #4 TDC? Although it says in the book that the if crank marks line up, and cam marks line up then #1 is TDC, so does it matter if #1 or #4 is TDC when i line up both marks?
 

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The piston position doesn't matter. The cam position determines if it's at #1 compression stroke or #4. Luckily there's a mark on the cam gear that tells you when you are at #1 compression stroke, you pretty much answered that in your last sentence.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The piston position doesn't matter. The cam position determines if it's at #1 compression stroke or #4. Luckily there's a mark on the cam gear that tells you when you are at #1 compression stroke, you pretty much answered that in your last sentence.
Thanks a ton, that clears it up for me. I got some parts on order and I will let you know how it all turns out.

Got the timing belt all visible now, and yes I lost the teeth on the timing belt down by the crank shaft.
 

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just make sure you stick with oem parts when it comes to stuff like that.
i had a buddy who order a timing belt kit off ebay, and fu** his motor up a couple months later after his rebuild
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok...

I got the new belt and pulley's, and pump on. I rotate the crank CW and every 2 revolutions all the timing marks line up. but... It basically wont stay running. Seeming to sputter along the first time it tried it.

So...

1. If all the timing marks line up every 2 rotations of the crank, is it safe to assume i have it timed right?

2. since it barelly runs, is it safe to assume i have valve and or head damage?:facepalm:

3. what is the quickest or easiest way to verify i have valve or head damage?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
would a

" used cylinder head that was removed from a 1997 Mitsubishi Galant 2.4L SOHC 4G64 "

work on my 2003 eclipse 2.4L, 4 cyl engine?

I would assume yes considering the 4G64, but wanted to ask you guys too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just to clarify earlier posts and replys.

So if I turn the crank shaft 1 revolution, and the oil pump and cam are in time. then I turn the crank 1 more revolution and the oil pump and the cam are NOT in time.

So if I disconnect the timing belt and leave the oil pump, and cam in time, and turn the crank 1 revoltion....

Would that change anything?

Basically, every time I rotate the crank 1 revolution are the piston's in the same position after every revolution?

Keep in mind i have the 2003 2.4L, 4cyl.
 

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Yeah it runs like crap because one or more cylinders isn't getting compression from the bent valves. And yes you got the timing right.

It will mess up the timing because the sprockets have different numbers of teeth. Also you don't want to rotate the crank independently of the cams, that's how it got destroyed remember?

That's kind of an old head so it might not have good sealing of the valves and the stem seals would need to be replaced
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Ok, I got everything disconnected from the head. I think I will stop for the night.

But i had a question on how to remove a double threaded post from the head?

If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. I will start googling too.(I googled it and is what I was thinking, use 2 nuts tightened on the stud then screw stud off, I was worried about wrecking the threads on the post when tightening 2 nuts though


Thanks for all the help so far.
 
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