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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys...finally I decided to go in pretty new subject to me and get knowledge in car alarm system. And for first it was pretty easy, but after spent some hours and hours on researching and looking for answer I finally got some question that I'm not understand, yet. And I hope that you going to help me and I'm going to help another people that going my way. Let it be small how-to. Because I will not just install this, but will explain for newbie persons like me how i did that ;)

Attention tons of pictures

This is guide that I followed for wire location

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810838126/" title="Wire location by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8304/7810838126_9f400d002c_c.jpg" width="425" height="800" alt="Wire location"></a>



Let's start

I bought this alarm Code Alarm CA6552 for good reference and nice price compare to DEI models. Anyway the install and guide that was provided as I understood is not easy for person who install it first.

Here is the clickable link with specification

My car is Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000GS. Here is below the description that I guided for connecting my alarm.


And here is questions:

1. Output Harness Ignition 3/ Active Output

As in manual said it's additional wire that can be programmed for different purpose especially for transporder bypass. And as I wish to install car alarm remote I understand that I need it. But as I looked on my wire diagram (Start and Immobilizer ) I can't find to which wire I need to contact it.

Here is below the picture what's manual said about this:

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810569372/" title="Ignition 3 Diagram by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/7810569372_c677488fa5.jpg" width="485" height="500" alt="Ignition 3 Diagram"></a>

So do I need to cut my starter cable and connect this like it on image 3 for remote start option

Here is the picture of what relay I have with this alarm
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810606914/" title="Relay by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8430/7810606914_c96c9fcea2_n.jpg" width="320" height="264" alt="Relay"></a>

2. Output Harness AUX 1

It's provides impulse signal to control my power window, sunroof etc. But I really don't know how and what I need to do with this wire. Here below description of it

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810624296/" title="AUX1 WIRE by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7127/7810624296_32a0940ce4.jpg" width="500" height="124" alt="AUX1 WIRE"></a>


3. Input Harness Door trigger input+

According to my electric diagram we have negative switch it's mean both wires from key cylinder has ground, so should I just cut this wire or I misunderstood the purpose of it

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810653814/" title="Door Trigger Input + by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8425/7810653814_867aaf2698.jpg" width="500" height="196" alt="Door Trigger Input +"></a>

4. Input Harness External Start Input (-)

Should I connect it to one of my ground wire on bypass kit DEI 556U. Right ?

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810663506/" title="external start (-) by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8291/7810663506_1a22e5a3fc.jpg" width="500" height="77" alt="external start (-)"></a>

5. Input Harness Neutral Safety Input(-)

It's necessary for remote start, and couldn't locate this wire. Is it in big junction box ?

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810683580/" title="Neutral safety input (-) by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8436/7810683580_2b666c35d4.jpg" width="500" height="158" alt="Neutral safety input (-)"></a>

6. Input Harness Tach Input

As professional guide side of wiring location the picture from the top thread which I followed it's some plug in my fuse box, can't locate it definitely so need help to find it.

Here is what alarm guide said :
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810709212/" title="Tach Input by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7810709212_9ea942c750.jpg" width="500" height="252" alt="Tach Input"></a>

7.Alternate Output Harness - Pulse during crank

Should I connect it just to starter wire, because as I understood I haven't second starter wire, and what actually this alarm wire doing.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810730362/" title="Pulse During Crank(-) by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8430/7810730362_abae7550f9.jpg" width="500" height="152" alt="Pulse During Crank(-)"></a>

8.Start Harness - Starter Output(+)

According to manual I should install starter killer, here where I should use this wire Ignition 3 from output harness. Right ? And is it really necessary to install this starter killer because I've immobilizer ?

So here we have pretty a lot of question that I wish to figure out for myself and I wish to help people who going to have probably the same question with DIY Car Alarm.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7810787180/" title="Starter Output (+) by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7127/7810787180_72d5679cca.jpg" width="500" height="212" alt="Starter Output (+)"></a>

And one more time the list of questions:

1. Output Harness Ignition 3/ Active Output
2. Output Harness AUX 1
3. Input Harness Door trigger input+
4. Input Harness External Start Input (-)
5. Input Harness Neutral Safety Input(-)
6. Input Harness Tach Input
7.Alternate Output Harness - Pulse during crank
8.Start Harness - Starter Output(+)


THE MAIN THREAD GOING BE UPDATED WHILE I'LL GET ANSWERS ON MY QUESTION AND EVERYTHING WOULD BE CLEAR.

So will do Small How To DIY Car Alarm in future from this thread


Thanks everybody who going to help me in this !!!;)
 

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"S" Car...Gooooooo
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Please forgive me if this comes off as sounding like a jerk, but these questions that you have is precisely the reason why jobs such as this really should be left to the professionals. These really are the basics. People who have been trained and have the understanding of the systems to make them work properly; NOT just attach this wire to that wire because a list I downloaded from the interwebs said so and say good enough. This is also why I have a HUGE problem with the websites that sell or give away the tech info so that "anybody can do install this at home". I can't count how many vehicles and systems I've had to repair because of botched jobs. :rant:

Now, rant over. I acknowledge the desire for anyone to pick up this skill and strive to better themselves along the way. We all (true professionals) started somewhere.


On to the questions without writing a novel.
1) this is used to turn on the transponder bypass along with the appropriate supporting hardware required based on what method/devise you have chosen
2) Used to drive additional devices. For most basic applications this isn't used. Consider this an advanced feature.
3) This wire sense whether the door is open or closed. It has NOTHING to with locking, unlocking, or the key cylinder in the door. This is a SENSING wire.
4) This is used typically when you add this remoter starter to an existing alarm system or to OE keyless entry. You don't need it for most applications.
5) If your vehicle is a manual transmission this wire MAY be used IF this model is capable of being used safely on such a car.
6) This goes to the tach wire in the car. There is a test connector in the eclipse with this wire in it to the side of the main JB under the hood. Alternatively you can use one of the injector wires if you feel adventurous.
7) This wire is commonly used for manual transmission vehicles to bypass the clutch safety switch with supporting hardware.
8) This wire supplies power for the starter it connects to the main starter wire in the ignition harness. If starter disable if desired, it goes to the "vehicle side" of the kill relay.

I wish you the best of luck in your project.
 

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Please forgive me if this comes off as sounding like a jerk, but these questions that you have is precisely the reason why jobs such as this really should be left to the professionals. These really are the basics. People who have been trained and have the understanding of the systems to make them work properly; NOT just attach this wire to that wire because a list I downloaded from the interwebs said so and say good enough. This is also why I have a HUGE problem with the websites that sell or give away the tech info so that "anybody can do install this at home". I can't count how many vehicles and systems I've had to repair because of botched jobs. :rant:


Amen brother.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
let's rock baby ;-)

Please forgive me if this comes off as sounding like a jerk, but these questions that you have is precisely the reason why jobs such as this really should be left to the professionals. These really are the basics. People who have been trained and have the understanding of the systems to make them work properly; NOT just attach this wire to that wire because a list I downloaded from the interwebs said so and say good enough. This is also why I have a HUGE problem with the websites that sell or give away the tech info so that "anybody can do install this at home". I can't count how many vehicles and systems I've had to repair because of botched jobs. :rant:

Now, rant over. I acknowledge the desire for anyone to pick up this skill and strive to better themselves along the way. We all (true professionals) started somewhere.



On to the questions without writing a novel.
1) this is used to turn on the transponder bypass along with the appropriate supporting hardware required based on what method/devise you have chosen
2) Used to drive additional devices. For most basic applications this isn't used. Consider this an advanced feature.
3) This wire sense whether the door is open or closed. It has NOTHING to with locking, unlocking, or the key cylinder in the door. This is a SENSING wire.
4) This is used typically when you add this remoter starter to an existing alarm system or to OE keyless entry. You don't need it for most applications.
5) If your vehicle is a manual transmission this wire MAY be used IF this model is capable of being used safely on such a car.
6) This goes to the tach wire in the car. There is a test connector in the eclipse with this wire in it to the side of the main JB under the hood. Alternatively you can use one of the injector wires if you feel adventurous.
7) This wire is commonly used for manual transmission vehicles to bypass the clutch safety switch with supporting hardware.
8) This wire supplies power for the starter it connects to the main starter wire in the ignition harness. If starter disable if desired, it goes to the "vehicle side" of the kill relay.

I wish you the best of luck in your project.

Okay. Here we are . First thanks for fast respond.
Second I really understand what you talking about when some dummies trying to do that what they not suppose to do. But I feel that this is not harder then to build aircraft. So just some knowledge, some good advices a lot of researches. PATIENCE PATIENCE and one more time Patience.
Any way very grateful for any help.

That's what I understood :

1. Output Harness Ignition 3/ Active Output
As I'm going to use DEI 556UW for bypass my immobilizare system this wire from alarm would be a signal wire ?

2. Output Harness AUX 1
For some accessories that I would install when become rich :) ?

3. Input Harness Door trigger input+
On the body side we have black door pin , this is door trigger and this signal wire going to send to brain signal when the door was opened not appropriate way ? According to table#1 (pic 1) in first post door trigger has constant (-) and this wire required door trigger input (+) so what you suggest me to do with that ? Or my suggestion that I need just one (-) or (+) to use correct ?

4. Input Harness External Start Input (-)
Will use it with DEI 556UW. This is ground for this device.

5. Input Harness Neutral Safety Input(-)
I have A/T car so, my question if I would leave it like it, would remote function work ?

6. Input Harness Tach Input
Thank will try to find it. Just for interest why the alarm brain need signal from it ?

7.Alternate Output Harness - Pulse during crank
Not need in A/T for remote start function correct ?

8.Start Harness - Starter Output
If I'm going to use relay should connect in circuit for starter kill.
Would think about it later. Right now just connect direct to starter wire

Actually here is the picture how I prepared for it.



All wires is twisted and should be appropriete length. After will finish this project would show video of full work. Thanks everybody and I hope this is not just for me ;)
 

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"S" Car...Gooooooo
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I was an AME (Canadian equivalent to A&P technician) for almost eight years myself. Strangely enough, aircraft electrical systems were often much more simple than many modern automobiles.

Here you go:

1) yes. along with a 12V ignition source
2) yes :p
3) no. the eclipse has negative door triggers. they rest at 12V+.
4) no. you do not require this connection
5) correct. as long as your car's safety switch works properly, this is not required either
6) you must open up the small rectangular box beside the JB to find it. it tells the RS when to disengage the starter because the engine is running
7) correct. not required for your application
8) best to do it all at the same time for a tidier install. google starter disable relay to give you an idea of what you need to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So far so well. Okay I pass my wires through the firewall for siren (+) and tacho wire.



Took me about 40 minutes to do that



Also found Hood Pin, as I understood it has two wires ( ground and signal wire) would be appreciated if somebody give me suggestion where the signal wire is go



Trying to find the Tach terminal it should be someplace near with T-shape connector in junk box. Still looking for it :)



May be this one ?



So project is moving. Hope in right directions with your help. Talk to you later ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was an AME (Canadian equivalent to A&P technician) for almost eight years myself. Strangely enough, aircraft electrical systems were often much more simple than many modern automobiles.

Here you go:

1) yes. along with a 12V ignition source
2) yes :p
3) no. the eclipse has negative door triggers. they rest at 12V+.
4) no. you do not require this connection
5) correct. as long as your car's safety switch works properly, this is not required either
6) you must open up the small rectangular box beside the JB to find it. it tells the RS when to disengage the starter because the engine is running
7) correct. not required for your application
8) best to do it all at the same time for a tidier install. google starter disable relay to give you an idea of what you need to do.
Thank you man. Just missed your post before did mine.

So :
1.No more questions.
2. No more questions.

3. Okay it has negative door triggers, as I got answer from another forum, I should use just one (-) or (+). Correct ?


4. that's what you wrote: This is used typically when you add this remoter starter to an existing alarm system What you mean, it's not using in any bypass kit ?

5. No more questions.

6. Okay, looked carefully and couldn't find it. aaaa. Can you direct me where I should look better, Just tell me number that it's close too :)



7.No more questions.

8. Going to read more about installing a relay)) but if would have some question))

Thanks anyway
 

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You so Kind :)
Not trying to be an ass, but have you ever had to redo someone's hack job?

If you had this done by a professional it would be installed in about 3-4 hours, not days.

Reference the stickied "Eclipse Alarm Install" thread, it answers a few of your questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So far...not so well

Not trying to be an ass, but have you ever had to redo someone's hack job?

If you had this done by a professional it would be installed in about 3-4 hours, not days.

Reference the stickied "Eclipse Alarm Install" thread, it answers a few of your questions.
So far, not so well :). But I'm still here and will do it. I'm sure


F...k spent whole day on assembling and after assembled all wires ( nothing about remote control ) the horn and siren start chirp like crazy, and only key in ignition for 10 second can stop it, after that it's show that it's arm, everything blinking like should , but nothing going how it should be.

1. The doors not locking, and when I lock them manually they don't unlock.
2. In disarm position I have blinking icon on my fob ( like door was opened ) even it's closed.
3. When opening trunk with key, the alarm not start. Should check tomorrow everything.

Never thought that's it take so much time. Plus to make all this wiring it's really a pain in the ass, because they are located it such place. Not very convenient...

I have couple theories why the door's is not locking.
1.First, the wire orange and light green black is not that wires that need for Lock, Unlock and Arm,Disarm. So R/S not get information from key cylinder.
2. Or I screwed up with door pin, and it's not get information that's why it's think that door is ajar.
3. If the lock switch is working, like in loop may be it's give the signal to R/S that passenger lock switch is hacked. Because, right now I don't have passenger window switch with lock button.
4. I have not just simple negative lock.
But:
a) Reverse polarity locks - Rest in ground and register positive voltage when the lock and Unlock switches are activated.
b) Negative Multiplexed locks - variable ground when switch activated
If this is going be true I would need additional parts to install for appropriate work of car alarm.

Huh..will do tomorrow double checking for each variant. There some problem that I going figure out. For sure.
If somebody have some suggestions would be appreciated to hear them.
 

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"S" Car...Gooooooo
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The eclipse has simple negative lock/unlock and arm/disarm. One wire for each. If you use the arm and disarm wires at the ETACS then the doors will also lock and unlock appropriately. You will need to "double pulse" the unlock/disarm to unlock the passenger side door with only one remote button press. Otherwise two quick unlock presses will be required by the user. The orange and orange/black wires are only used IF you have the factory alarm on the car. If your car is NOT equipped with the OE security then different wires are used for lock/unlock. Some alarm systems will not allow the doors to be locked if a door is open. Check your door trigger connection; It is likely wrong.

The door trigger on these cars is NEGATIVE. The purple sense wire on your module is looking for POSITIVE. Hint: use the GREEN wire, not the PURPLE wire (same harness)

I foresee a rats' nest. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The eclipse has simple negative lock/unlock and arm/disarm. One wire for each. If you use the arm and disarm wires at the ETACS then the doors will also lock and unlock appropriately. You will need to "double pulse" the unlock/disarm to unlock the passenger side door with only one remote button press. Otherwise two quick unlock presses will be required by the user. The orange and orange/black wires are only used IF you have the factory alarm on the car. If your car is NOT equipped with the OE security then different wires are used for lock/unlock. Some alarm systems will not allow the doors to be locked if a door is open. Check your door trigger connection; It is likely wrong.

The door trigger on these cars is NEGATIVE. The purple sense wire on your module is looking for POSITIVE. Hint: use the GREEN wire, not the PURPLE wire (same harness)

I foresee a rats' nest. :(
Thank you buddy. Yes you was right ;-) I did everything yesterday allmost at night, when got back home from work, so I screwed up the last connection. The lock wire :), just simple 2 wires for arm disarm.
And another one from output harness's for arm/ disarm was good. So that's why when I got connected it chirped. )))

fuh...finally it's working...Next step:

a) starter killer ( I even have a diagram how it should be) ;
b) remote start control ;
c) power window ;
d) sunroof ;
e) trunk solenoid ;

So it would be pretty big thread :)

P.s. your opinion on this diagram for start kill relay ( my friend draw it for me)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dear SvenHoek !
As I see only you here pretty related to electronics.
So I'm ask you to check my suggestion for starter killer installation.
If something wrong in my draw please tell me.
Thank a lot !!!:)

 

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Honestly, both those "diagrams" that you posted give me a headache. Your friend has over-complicated this. Refer to the first diagram that you see in the link that I provide to you in post #6. It is very self explanatory.

Note: if you were to wire up the starter kill relay the way it is in the last diagram, it would cause a direct short in the event of an attempted start with the alarm armed. Just saying. You must be wary of the direction of the diode on the relay, and the extra diodes drawn in the diagram are truly pointless for a basic starter kill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Honestly, both those "diagrams" that you posted give me a headache. Your friend has over-complicated this. Refer to the first diagram that you see in the link that I provide to you in post #6. It is very self explanatory.

Note: if you were to wire up the starter kill relay the way it is in the last diagram, it would cause a direct short in the event of an attempted start with the alarm armed. Just saying. You must be wary of the direction of the diode on the relay, and the extra diodes drawn in the diagram are truly pointless for a basic starter kill.
Okay, let's work according you diagram. but anyway the connection almost the same . Please look.



Yes, I got you. But I connected this wires according to the wires that comes from relay. And as you see that what I have on my relay

30 - white
87a - black
85 - red
86 - orange

And everything according this initial diagram, and wires that come from relay's pigtail.

And yes, I didn't fried my system because, first I wish to connect it on paper then in real life.

But anyway here is a picture that you clear see which one wire come from which pin (it's smooth but I marked them as you see)

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7841738268/" title="relay and connector by Narvi90, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8307/7841738268_2aa11fb186.jpg" width="500" height="379" alt="relay and connector"></a>
And I should connect like this ?

85red - to armed out(r/s)
86orange - to ignition green and pink (r/s)
87a black - to first part of cut starter's wire
30 white - to second part of cut starter's wire

So you should I swap like this :

1) 85red going to ignition green ;
2) 86 orange going to armed out ;

I'm totally frustrated because I did like the wire diagram said.
Hope that it's just mess in color from relay pigtail. Please clarify the situation for me. Thank you
 

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"almost the same" is NOT the same thing as "the same as"

It is not necessarily the pins of the relay that are critical so much as it is the function of each as applicable to your application. Look very carefully at "my" diagram, then look very carefully at your relay harness. Take notice of the diode. In my diagram, the stripe on the diode is towards pin 86, yet your relay harness has the stripe facing towards pin 85. While this may seem insignificant, it is actually a MAJOR difference. Applying +12V ignition to the non-stripe side of the diode, and then the - when armed to he striped side will bypass the coil in the relay altogether opting to go through the diode instead and cause a direct short in certain situations. ie your car is locked/armed and someone tries to hotwire it, or your car is locked/armed and you attempt to remote start the vehicle.

This is case and point for my earlier statement. UNDERSTANDING the system is very important, and "connect this wire to that wire just because the sheet or diagram told me to" falls horribly short.

Cliff notes:

1) Cut the starter wire in the ignition harness.
2) Connect relay harness as follows:

30 (W/B): engine side of cut starter wire, along with starter output from module
87a (B): switch side of cut starter wire
85 (R): +12V ignition from module
86 (O): - when armed output from module
 
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