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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know how to properly describe the issues but I'll do my best.
To be on the same page my car is a 2005 3g eclipse gts. I bought a subwoofer last year it's a single 12 skar evl with a 2500 watt Amp. My Car would bounce in rpm and potentially would stall depending on how hard it hits so I decide to do the big 3 upgrade and got a alternator that puts out 110 amps at idle and 230 amps at 1500 rpm the issue went away for a while then decided to come back but now it's jerking really aggressively while I'm driving with the bass on but it's not constant, there's times when my car can idle perfectly while hitting the hardest bass while other times it'll stall while playing taylor swift馃槀 so my question is wtf do I do? Add another battery or something i feel like my system shouldn't be this difficult don't get me wrong it hits hard but it's frustrating


This is another major concern, my car is pretty much dying while I'm driving at random with no music or anything playing, I did a little bit of research and everything is pointing towards sensors or the fuel system, the car shows no codes and run perfectly besides those random times it wants to kill me if someone have electrical experience/ car experience please help. Very much appreciated


Also I did a alternator test and it works fine
I replaced the spark plug a while ago and didn't have any issues until about 3-4 months ago
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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This car is built to use an 85w alternator, and is known to be picky about what brand you use other than oem.
The Big 3 cable upgrade is a good idea no matter which alternator you install, but if I was you and insisted on a high power amp and sub, I would seriously look into a dual battery setup with an oem (or equivalent) 85w alternator. I personally think that too much bass makes the music sound unnatural. Other members have installed less powerful subwoofers with a separate amp and have gotten good results. Sometimes its best to avoid the hype of "booming bass" and just go with something that works with the car's electrical system without much tinkering. When you start rewiring your electrical system, you are asking for trouble either now or somewhere down the road...
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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BTW, check that the "regulator" in your alternator is performing correctly, even when hot. Such as if the voltage jumps around abnormally, etc???
Use the search button, too, as there are a lot of posts concerning custom sound systems for this car and how members have worked around electrical issues.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Sorry, but MY neighborhood is infected with this disease. Sometimes at after midnight. TRUST ME. Nobody wants to hear this @#$! but you. Turn off the noise and DRIVE. ...J.D.
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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Appreciate it, but any answer on it dying even without the bass?
Dying without the bass on may or may not be a related issue. That could be fuel pump, ignition, faulty sensors, vacuum leak, etc. So you may have more than one problem. Any codes thrown???
There are numerous possible causes, but since you said the problem started AFTER you upgraded your sound system and Alternator, then it may be electrical issues. How did you test your alternator? Did you test for erratic voltage output?
Do your headlights dim or wipers slow down with the stereo on?
Also, Read other posts on using "Caps" with your sound system
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dying without the bass on may or may not be a related issue. That could be fuel pump, ignition, faulty sensors, vacuum leak, etc. So you may have more than one problem. Any codes thrown???
There are numerous possible causes, but since you said the problem started AFTER you upgraded your sound system and Alternator, then it may be electrical issues. How did you test your alternator? Did you test for erratic voltage output?
Do your headlights dim or wipers slow down with the stereo on?
Also, Read other posts on using "Caps" with your sound system
Yea I stated that before no codes and my alternator was tested and it's fine, first I simply get the voltage it was reading at 14.4 I believe then I disconnected the negative terminal and the car ran fine, but when I turned my sub on the voltage jumped all over the place. But yea I realized it could be MANY things that's my why I was hoping someone has the exact issue and had a solution
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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"You built it, you buy it". There are no instant experts out here. The younger generation someday needs to learn you cannot google your way out of every situation. Try taking some technical classes BEFORE you start clipping and hacking. I have spent over 16 years in technical classes. If you want the knowledge, you have put in the seat time. ...J.D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"You built it, you buy it". There are no instant experts out here. The younger generation someday needs to learn you cannot google your way out of every situation. Try taking some technical classes BEFORE you start clipping and hacking. I have spent over 16 years in technical classes. If you want the knowledge, you have put in the seat time. ...J.D.
Thanks for your opinion? I thought this form is to help inform others and expand knowledge but maybe it's just to be a old cock who new
 

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Thanks for your opinion? I thought this form is to help inform others and expand knowledge but maybe it's just to be a old cock who new
I鈥檓 pretty sure he鈥檚 just trying to say that even with all the info on this old forum, the likely hood of you getting a exact fix is highly unlikely. It鈥檚 always been issues of run around diagnosing and throwing parts at it from people on the forum telling you what you should do or what you should replace with it still not fixing what ever it is. I鈥檝e been on these forums for quite sometime and it鈥檚 simply impossible to give exact answers to a problem the reason why it鈥檚 called diagnosing/troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I鈥檓 pretty sure he鈥檚 just trying to say that even with all the info on this old forum, the likely hood of you getting a exact fix is highly unlikely. It鈥檚 always been issues of run around diagnosing and throwing parts at it from people on the forum telling you what you should do or what you should replace with it still not fixing what ever it is. I鈥檝e been on these forums for quite sometime and it鈥檚 simply impossible to give exact answers to a problem the reason why it鈥檚 called diagnosing/troubleshooting.
Yea maybe I was quick to judge, I realize I'm not gonna find the exact answer, the idea is to find someone with similar issues who found an answer that's all, also I figured it out, so I tested the alternator and it was fine but I wanted to double check so I tested it again and little behold it failed so I put the oem one back on and got the aftermarket one sent out for repairs
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Sorry, I did not mean to offend. It is just that you cannot expect in instant answer. Whatever you have going on is unique to your car. You cannot expect people to be able to see what you have in front of you. You have to diagnose the system you put together as to where you went wrong. again, there are no instant answers. ...J.D.
 
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