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Car works in idle but wont drive

1242 Views 20 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  MGCall
Someone recently broke in my car and snatched my wires out of my rear view so the light would shut off. anyway, i tried to plug them back up then my radio cut off, I went to start my engine and the car cut on and idled at 1k rpm and died, i cut it on again and it idle continuously, but when i tried to drive the car gets weak and shut off my sunroof also wont close, its like I have no electric or power in my car, i looked at the radio fuse and engine fuse and they both are fine I have no idea whats wrong, could you all please help me.
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Last year I ahd my headunit ripped out of my car. This caused several fuses to blow. Repair any broken or bare wires then begin replacing fuses as needed.
i dont know what wires to look for, and so far all the fuses i looked at were ok, i cant look at the radio fuse in my engine compartment because theres this yellow thing preventing me
A visual inspection on fuses does not mean they are good. you can use a multimeter to test for resistance. If the resistance shows up at a 0, -0, 1, or -1 then the fuse is no good. The readout for an open circuit using a cheap multimeter is usually one fo the numbers I listed. On mine the number shows up clear to the left side of the screen.

You have fuses on the driver side dash, and more under the hood of the car near the battery. Your problem is most likely either A) reconnected wires wrong. B) blown fuse. C) Wires are open else where along the circuit.
Ok the yellow thing pull it up until it doesn't come up anymore. using needle nose grab hold of the fuse in the yellow block. Giving it a slight turn when pulling it up will release it.
ok thanks, the radio and sunroof now works, the engine still starts and drops to 500 rpms then raises to 1k, then when i drive and stop the engine acts like it wants to die, any ideas about this problem? i checked all the fuses and the rest are good
Your idle problem I had and it was a fuse issue. If you are sure that all fuses are working, and that the wiring is 100% correct then disconnect the neg battery wire and try letting the computer relearn. Also make sure that the fuses in the yellow box are seated right before you press the yellow box back down.
FYI: The fuses that you just replaced pull them out and see if they are blown. If so you need to recheck the wiring that was messed up.
Are you using a multimeter or some type of test light to check the fuses?
no, im just looking at them, i dont have the multimeter, when you keep saying check the wiring waht do you mean? i took the wiring back out because i dont want anything to mess up so i just unconnected it like it was at first, ar ethere any fuses i should check for expecially? relay, etc.
Ok any wires that were messed up needs to be fixed first. For about 10 dollars you can get a cheap multimeter at walmart, or go to autozone and get a fuse tester. I suggest getting a multimeter because it will serve you later on.

IF you are unsure if your multimeter is telling you open circuit which means the fuse is not good then put a resister in series. The multimeter will read out the resistance of the resister IF the circuit is closed (fuse is good). IF you get a 0,1,- then the circuit is open (fuse is no good).
If you are not sure how to use a multimeter then here is what you do. Go to radioshack and tell them you need a 2.2K resistor. The resistor will have three red bands around it with a gold band at one end. When you get home hook the multimeter up to the resistor. Turnt he dial on teh multimeter Until it the display shows 2.2. It might display a number near 2.2 which is fine because the gold band indicates the % that the resistor might be from the actual 2.2K. Now all you have to do it hook the multimeter up in series with the fuse and resistor.

SO red wire from multimeter to ressitor. Resistor to fuse. Then Black wire from multimeter to other end of fuse.

IF you do not use a resistor then you need to put the multimeter on the lowest resistance setting. IF you don't then a good fuse might display as open because you are testing out side of the resistance range of the circuit.
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Ok, that all sounds good, but you say i need to fix the wires first, i dont know how to, there's like 3 or four wires and I dont which goes where, im getting frustrated cause i know nothing about multimeters or resistors, how much would it cost if i took it to a professional
and i searched a few post, do you think it could be that i have a bad ground?
If this happened after they ripped the wires out then im sure the problem si with the wires they yanked out. If you can't find where the wires go to then just use some electrical tape on the wires coming from the harness. Tape each wire off then move on to the fuses.

With the fuses here is an easy solution if you don't want to mess with a multimeter. Goto autozone and get a fuse tester, but like I said a multimeter is a better investment.

The wires are they green/yellow, black, green, and another color? Like the ones that go to your hazard light button?
from reading your posts, i highly doubt you have the skills and knowledge to fix this correctly and without causing further damage.

take it to a shop, where they'll atleast unhook the battery first.
but how much will that cost
but how much will that cost
wont know till they fix it, or they give you a quote. may help if you tell them you only have $$$ to work with.
I know you don't live where I do, but I called a local mechanic up and he said that if you know what wire was ripped out it would be a simple fix that would require less then an hour, but you would be charged for one hour of labor and parts. So call your local shops and tell them what happen and if they try to charge you more then an hours worth of work then pass them up.

This is also under the assumption nothing has to be taking apart to get to the wires.
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