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CF Resin/Layering Questions

1156 Views 32 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  gunslinger
I've just started working with CF and I have a question some of you may be able to help with. For my 1st piece I am overlaying an armrest. I have already done the following:

1) attached fabric to armrest
2) coated with resin and allowed to dry until tacky (45mins-1hr)
3) laid a 2nd coat of resin
4) allowed the 2nd coat to dry completely (rock hard).

Now I see that there are a couple of low spots that could really go for another coat. I think they are too deep to just use a spray on clearcoat. When it comes to laying down additional layers of resin, now that the top coat is hard, do I have to sand and clean the hard resin top coat before applying more resin? I'm hoping I can just spread more on it without sanding but I figured I would ask before I take a chance of ruining my current work.

FWIW, I am using a special polyurethane resin that dries perfectly clear. This is not the same as your standard fiberglassing resin which tends to dry an amber color. Not sure if that would make a difference.

Also, if the resin becomes chipped/cracked is it ok to apply resin on top of that or do you have to sand/clean first? I ask "just in case". I do not have any cracking as of yet.

I'm also curious as to what you all use to remove resin from your skin and brushes. So far I have just been trashing the brushes after each single use :( And I found that soap and water don't do JACK for cleaning resin off your skin! I ound my hands were covered with paper towel scraps after washing up :lol: I thought someon said "Gojo" works well :dunno: I have been using a pair of Gojo gloves and they rock but I don't always wear them while working with the resin.

Thoughts? Tips? TIA!
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The GoJo worked pretty well for me. As far the the brushes I keep trashing them too. Just kep getting the cheapest ones I could find! But in your case I wouldn't want to risk bristles getting stuck in the resin because of a cheap brush.
Wear surgical gloves, that's what I would wear when working with any type of resin. Just pop them off and trash when finished. :)

As far as brushes, I used foam brushes and dispose after each use.
Ya, I was using nitrile gloves but they got to be a pain once resin got on them, even though it wasn't tacky yet. So then I popped them off and got the shit on my hands. After trying to clean them (and running out of nitrile gloves) I switched to the thicker Gojo gloves.

Looks like I will be picking up some of the Gojo hand cleaner stuff tonight. Any idea on the layering questions? Should I sand and clean before adding more resin or should clear resin on clear resin stick and look fine?
To clean my hands I use brake parts cleaner, then gojo..

As for how I did my peices, I Did each peice with one coat of epoxy resin. After letting that dry, I sanded with 400 grit then globbed on a shit load of fiberglass resin. The reason I globbed it on because I was going to sand alot of it off.. Oh yeah, it does leave it kind of amber but after clearing it it doesnt look to bad. You can keep putting on the clear resin but that shits expensive.

I started with 60 grit then worked to 100 then 140. The reason I started with such a coarse paper was to get all the bumps and divots out. The end result is awesome, but its still not perfect. It's good enough for me tho. Now I have to work on clearing/buffing and it will look professional.

Btw, Lets see some pics!
Update: I "globbed" :) on another layer of resin without sanding the hardened layer 1st. It stuck just fine and appeared perfectly clear. Tonight I will start sanding/smoothing and try to get some pics.

How exactly do you go about polishing it? I have an 8" buffer/polisher but I have no clue what kind of wheel or compound would be used to polish a resin :dunno: Plastic compound I would guess? :dunno:
Update: I "globbed" :) on another layer of resin without sanding the hardened layer 1st. It stuck just fine and appeared perfectly clear. Tonight I will start sanding/smoothing and try to get some pics.

How exactly do you go about polishing it? I have an 8" buffer/polisher but I have no clue what kind of wheel or compound would be used to polish a resin :dunno: Plastic compound I would guess? :dunno:
Treat it as if it was clearcoat. Wetsand, going up to higher grits, and even as high as 3000 if you want the BEST finish and use a medium cut compound, polish, etc.
So by polishing you all are saying to use a high grit paper in conjunction with a polishing compound?? I thought water was used when "wet" sanding :dunno: Please confirm! Thanks. Just seems to me that using a sandpaper with a compound would result in a big mess... Would you consider Tripoli compound to be "medium cut"?
So by polishing you all are saying to use a high grit paper in conjunction with a polishing compound?? I thought water was used when "wet" sanding :dunno: Please confirm! Thanks. Just seems to me that using a sandpaper with a compound would result in a big mess... Would you consider Tripoli compound to be "medium cut"?
Whoa.. no no.

Yes, you wetsand.. liek I said, just treat it the same way you would when finishing out a clearcoat.

Wetsand working your way up through higher grip papers.. then use a medium dense foam pad and rubbing compound, to a softer pad and polish, etc.

The only compounds I use are 3M or Meguiar's
Hijacker - Thx for the clarification! Makes sense now. I got confused due to my recent metal polishing work (Tripoli LOL).

Dark - Thx for the link. +repped.
I want to see some images of your work so far. I am very intersted in doing the same, and getting some of that silver carbo fiber weave that you've got. Still intersted in wrapping my a-pillars in that stuff once you've got the technique down? BTW - Check the problem reports thread and you'll see I got my car fixed. Now onto wasting more money on useless appearance crap! Lol.
Well, this was he 1st piece I tried wrapping so it is NOT looking that good. However, I expect much better results from my next piece. I found that the problem areas for me have been:

1) Getting the krazy glue to hold the fabric in place well.
2) Preventing the fabric from stetching while pulling it around edges.

What happened to me at first was I used krazy glue to hold the CF in place. Well some of that came loose and when I went to reapply it and rp it around the edgesor the armrest it it pulled the weave apart a little bit allowing you to see what is underneath the CF in a couple small areas. The plastic was white so you can see some white coming through. Had I coated the plastic in grey primer then it would not have been noticable. I plan to do that for my next piece. Hell, I may even just sand this one down and wrap it with another layer of CF :dunno: I'm using this as a testing piece so its no big deal. I had to reapply glue to the edges of the armrest (where the fabric wraps around to the bottom) and due to me being in a rush I tried using 3 spray adhesive. It looks like that is yellow and if you use too much it can come through the fabric and look like shit.

I'll get pics up once this thing is worthy. Right now its not worth taking a pic, even for a test/1st piece. Based off my limited experience thus far I DO think the next piece will look much better. I'm definatly not read to do this as a service yet. I haven't even tried doing something with real curves and concaves like a gauge pillar. I'm thinking that will be all about the Krazy glue though. I'm sure I will have pics up before the w/e.

On a side note: Anyone know where to get a silver or light grey (colored) adhesive sprays? Having that could cut my glueing time down by a day or so (for larger items).

Also, What kind of solvent is used to clean up this FG/CF resin?
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Also, What kind of solvent is used to clean up this FG/CF resin?
This I have yet to figure out which is why I abandoned attempting these projects - makes an absolute mess.

I did however do the work over a spare sheet of thick glass. Once finished and the excess amounts harden on the glass, you can remove using a nice scraper. Otherwise, do the work over cardboard and just scrap the cardboard when finished.
So far I have done all my resin laying over newspaper then I trash that once the resin hardens. Pretty easy clean up there. I just hate wasting brushes and plastic mixing containers so I was hoping to find something that cleans those. So far my Googling only lists the following as possible solvents:
-acetone
-denatured alcohol
-mineral spirits
*solvents for polyurethane adhesives

I'll check my chemical "stockpile" tonight and see if I have any of these to try out. If so I will report back my findings. I'm pretty sure once the resin has cured that you are SOL as far as saving the brushes/containers but I usually have a minute or two to clean up before things start getting stiff.
I didn't have much luck with Acetone, and that's probably the most plentiful chemical I have in the cabinet. Containers, brushes, etc.. I always just toss out.
I use foam brushes that i get for like $0.57 a piece, latex gloves, as for mixing containers i use an old gallon jug of windshield washer that i cut in half. I've used the bristle brushes and cleaned them with acetone brush cleaner but sometimes it would leave hairs behind, so foam brushes ftw, also i break off te old handles off the foam brushes and use them as stiring sticks for the resin. hope that helps.
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So I ran into a problem when wetsanding... I used an air DA sander with 3" disc and soft pad and 600grit paper. I cleaned the top of the armres with rubbing alcohol and wipe it with a cloth. Let it dry a few minutes. Then I used a spray bottle to wet the polyester resin coat and hit it with the sander on the lowest setting. The resin started to get cloudy as expected but then thing got very sticky and a greyish "glue" appeared on the surface. It seems to harden after I stop sanding and then is near impossible to remove.





Any idea what I may have done wrong? I see a website talks about selling a "sanding-aid" for the resin I am using but it is not listed in their catalog :( Think I may need that? I tried hand sanding with 1000grit after the "glue" showed up and as soon as the paper hits that glue it stops. I'm not sure how to remove this sticky stuff without hurting the hardened resin underneath :dunno: Thoughts?
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when i did carbon fiber and sanded sometimes it would cloud up also, but it never got sticky. For me it was just after sanding i would rinse the piece and then when it would dry it would look cloudy, so i would just sand it more carefully. Also i don't use rubbing alcohol i just use soap water when i clean my parts. I don't know if maybe thats causing a chemical reaction and making the resin sticky again.
FWIW, I am in the process of shaving off the gummy residue with a razor blade. I wetsanded with a wood block and 600grit and now I am seeing the cloudiness appear. Looks like I'm back on track :yesway: Thx!
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