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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't really seen this discussed before, so I figured I would give it a shot and see what people thing. Everyone, when discussing the rippmods blower, seems to mainly have problems with 1) The high cost, 2) Using the black box, 3) Their warranty service, and 4) The headers. I'm sure everyone noticed that they have a tuners package for like $2500 that has the blower and tubing and such. Why not just get that, a different piggyback ecu, or for the same price as the full kit, a standalone system, and some different headers. You won't have the warranty coverage, but you could also save about two grand off the price of their normal kit and installation. I just haven't figured out why more people don't get the tuners package and just do it themselves. I think that would make for some higher numbers provided you had good mechanical experience or knew a good shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm pretty sure it's just the stage one pulley setup, but I'm sure you can get a different pulley if you ask them.
 

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SlowGT said:
I haven't really seen this discussed before, so I figured I would give it a shot and see what people thing. Everyone, when discussing the rippmods blower, seems to mainly have problems with 1) The high cost, 2) Using the black box, 3) Their warranty service, and 4) The headers. I'm sure everyone noticed that they have a tuners package for like $2500 that has the blower and tubing and such. Why not just get that, a different piggyback ecu, or for the same price as the full kit, a standalone system, and some different headers. You won't have the warranty coverage, but you could also save about two grand off the price of their normal kit and installation. I just haven't figured out why more people don't get the tuners package and just do it themselves. I think that would make for some higher numbers provided you had good mechanical experience or knew a good shop.
So you would save the $2,000 and still have to buy a set of headers. Which ones do you suggest since I have had experience with most of them and the RIPP headers are the only ones to use. Oh and then you have to find some way to control the engine with our pesky computer that nobody has had much luck with. Then tune it all without tech support. By then you would have the same money invested and have something nobody knows how to work on ???

And you said higher numbers ? you mean higher than the 362whp that I made without nitrous ??? How much higher do you want ? And do you have the other mods necessary to handle that kind of power ???


Stick with RIPP man and you will be alright. One thing I have learned is that if something is cheap in life it isn't any good !!!!!
 

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Yeah, Im not a real pro here, but a standalone is going to cost about what, $1,500...then you either need to buy the equipment, or just have someone tune it for you (assuming you have the knowhow to do it).

After all that, the only reason I would see to buy the tuner kit is if you have cheap access to tuning gear, and can do it youself.
 

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npeifer said:
So you would save the $2,000 and still have to buy a set of headers. Which ones do you suggest since I have had experience with most of them and the RIPP headers are the only ones to use. Oh and then you have to find some way to control the engine with our pesky computer that nobody has had much luck with. Then tune it all without tech support. By then you would have the same money invested and have something nobody knows how to work on ???
Hytech headers > Ripp headers any day of the week.

This "pesky computer" is easily controlled by an AFC, but should be controlled by a more advanced E-Manage, we've been doing it for a year and half going strong.

Most people take it to a performance shop with a dyno tuner that can tune cars. If someone is getting the tuner kit, it is because they have an interest in getting the car work on their own accord and only need Rippmods to back up the craftsmanship of their products, not their tech support.

I would almost venture to say, that people would have better luck with the Rippmods kit if they got the tuner kit versus getting it with the grey/black box.
 

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Crewin323 said:
Yeah, Im not a real pro here, but a standalone is going to cost about what, $1,500...then you either need to buy the equipment, or just have someone tune it for you (assuming you have the knowhow to do it).

After all that, the only reason I would see to buy the tuner kit is if you have cheap access to tuning gear, and can do it youself.
You could still use a piggyback to tune over your stock ECU. A full Greddy E-Manage setup doesn't cost over $500 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for backing me up Tearstone

So you would save the $2,000 and still have to buy a set of headers.
The stage one setup, with ripp headers and installation from a shop would run about six grand ballpark. The tuners package, with a piggyback ecu (purchased or borrowed, and some cheaper headers, which work just as good as, if not better than ripps, comes to about $3500...You do the math.

And you said higher numbers ? you mean higher than the 362whp that I made without nitrous ??? How much higher do you want ? And do you have the other mods necessary to handle that kind of power ???
Ease up man, I'm not asking to race you, and no offense intended, but I don't need an unofficial rippmods spokesman, or I would still be on eclipseforums.org...I came here to look at different options.

All I am saying is that the supercharger isn't too bad a setup, and can obviously be priced a lot cheaper if you have some of the items yourself, and friends who are trained to install and tune forced induction equipment, and more importantly, friends who work for food and beer. (which I have, and I do : ) I love college, kinda sad to be graduating )

Also, if I'm not going to be covered by a ripp warranty, then why would I even need headers? I still say the car could run fine without them, and so do a lot of mechanics I've talked to, but in any case I will be going with XIR headers or some other brand besides ripp.
 

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For lower boost applications the AFC/AFR has no issues performing the necessary fuel management. For 7 psi or under there really aren't major timing adjustments needed. Now when you start running higher boost levels you need some sort of timing control as well, which requires a more advanced system. Its at this point the black/grey box is a great solution for the inexperienced tuner. I think this is more along the lines of what Russ was trying to say. :)
 

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SlowGT said:
Also, if I'm not going to be covered by a ripp warranty, then why would I even need headers? I still say the car could run fine without them, and so do a lot of mechanics I've talked to, but in any case I will be going with XIR headers or some other brand besides ripp.
you don't HAVE to have RIPP headers with the SDS, thats just RIPP's recommendation. I ran RPW short tubes for over a year with mine with no issues, and have been running Hytechs since.

personally I'd stay away from AMSS or XIR headers, RPW if you can get them is the best of the short tubes. If you decide to opt for the long tubes both RIPP and Hytechs will work very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the advice matt, I'll definately look into the hytech headers. I'm still curious though as to why we even need headers to run a supercharger? It just doesn't make sense to me.
 

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SlowGT said:
Thanks for the advice matt, I'll definately look into the hytech headers. I'm still curious though as to why we even need headers to run a supercharger? It just doesn't make sense to me.
more air in means more air out, the stock manifolds simply can't flow the cfm needed to run a SC.
 

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Tearstone said:
I bet the stock fed spec exhaust systems could get away without running headers with an SDS. :dunno:
possibly, but that comprises what, under 10% of all 3G's ever made? I've seen the effects of a cali spec manifold first hand, not pretty. And finding fed spec parts isn't the easiest thing to do. Like you've said in other threads, you believe in doing things right. Which in the case of teh SDS is using a set of long tube headers to help make power, or would you disagree?
 

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why dont you guys do the smart thing? flowbench your stock exhaust manifolds and then ask ripp to flowbench their $1000 ripp headers. and then compare them with the exhaust flow output of your engine. (simple calculation, i bet you can google it and find it in a few seconds)

sure the ripp headers are mandrel bent and are better for flow, but i'm pretty sure the stock manifolds are more than sufficient for 350hp.
 
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