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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey 3g.
Hopefully this is the right area'ish. I need to finish up my last bit of work on my car but just moved to an apartment, so my car's sitting at my parents house (it got itself grounded by deciding blown head gaskets are cool). I finished almost everything, till I learned one head bolt thread was stripped (luckily the front/right head). I've got most of what I need to fix it, just not really the time or space. I'm curious if anyone's interested in finishing where I left off, or is willing to help. Of course i'll pay (not the $1000+ shops are asking for work I can do, could just really use the help/speed to finish).

Specs-
2000 Eclipse GT Fed Spec, 170k'ish.
Location: Chicago/South Suburbs

I know I should/could just grab a 3.5L and call it a day, but don't have the puller or lift to get stuff around. Also, I've got a new clutch I would like to get put in sometime this century if that's your 'forte'.
 

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So what di you want done? Motor swap? Or head swap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So what di you want done? Motor swap? Or head swap?
"IF" I did the 6g74, my main aim was for a motor swap. I considered just the heads, but wasn't sure if there were any other lurking problems with the motor from the blown gasket since i'm kind of at "baller status" with my miles (a.k.a. high miles).

...unless you have a preference :p? Lol, I'm always taking in advice on the topic. I've been back and forth with Silvertune and RC Maniac about this for awhile now.
 

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I would contact Bitter, 3gEclipse86, or mk3rider. They are some of the top notch 3g mechanics in and around your area. They would be the ones I would trust if I was by you.
 

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Thanks for the reference, but honestly from cradle to grave that is a $1000 job. What do you want done? How did the hole strip? That's cast iron...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
To be honest, not entirely sure when/how. Most likely it was something retarded on my behalf since I did/do all of my own work, just think it's odd though how there's still bite left in the threads to lock it firmly in place, but not to torque. It gets pretty close (judging from the tension I get from the torque wrench), but when it's about 10 ft-lbs off, it just loosens up a tad and starts back at square one. I'm going back to my house this weekend and hopefully find the patience within myself to finish it...if not, there might be another car in the FS threads :lol:

Regardless, thanks for the reference, as well as input you two. :yesway:

Edit-
I forgot to mention what I want done. I'm aiming at just getting "either" the hole re-threaded (I've got all the material needed for that) or to get my clutch finished up. And by any chance, do you resurface flywheels Bitter? I asked a few guys I saw when I was at Firestone and NTB...they had no idea what the h*** a flywheel was >.> Guessing I asked the wrong folk. I looked into just getting a light-weight flywheel and understand the pros and cons of doing so, as well as the main point in installing one for turbo applications (which I'm not), just figured the replaceable plate may be a huge plus...provided my car decides to live again.
 

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pull the head, get it towed somewhere, have them helicoil it or install a threaded insert, tow it back home, put the head on, torque it down and cross your fingers.

OR swap a 3.5 in, ecu flash, and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
pull the head, get it towed somewhere, have them helicoil it or install a threaded insert, tow it back home, put the head on, torque it down and cross your fingers.

OR swap a 3.5 in, ecu flash, and call it a day.
I'd tow it, but if I already pull the head, I may as well just heli-coil/perma-coil/time-sert it myself since I have the material there. I was just looking to save some time lol. I'm going to just coil it myself and see if it decides to run or blow, and if it goes, in comes the 3.5 L.

Come to think of it...wouldn't dropping in the 3.5 be less time then popping the head off then back on? I'm comparing the process of removing belts, alt brack, hoses, manifolds, water pump, etc., versus just pulling out the engine and putting the 3.5 in. I know there's work involved there, but not sure on what the time frame is...I could have missed that section of the thread.

Last question, then I guess this can close :yesway:. Is TxCodeman (I think there's a 4 somewhere in his name, working off of memory) still doing tunes? I've got the equipment to log it, just need someone to send it to. By any chance, know if the 3.5 will pass emissions in IL Bitter? I've got my test due, but can't do it till I've got the little buddy (car) back up again.
 

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as long as you've completed all but 2 of the emissions monitors in the OBD2 self testing then you'll pass just fine, and you should pass with a stock 3.5 ROM running a 3.5. I don't think they check anything other than the generic monitors.
 
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