It sounds like he isn't interested in doing the job, but still wants some money from you. You should be concerned with insisting that he does do the job; perhaps his reticence results from lack of skill or knowledge.
Whoa! Hold on there a minute. That's some crazy stuff to do for a hydraulic problem. If it's really a hydraulic problem, the clutch pedal will have lots of play, perhaps even sinking to the floor or near it. That's all it takes to identify that as a cause (that and low fluid level). Don't go around killing people or your car.You could do this:
1) Pull the slave cylinder out of the trans (be sure to get the push rod out of it so it wont fall out while driving. DONT STEP ON THE CLUTCH WHILE THE SLAVE IS REMOVED or you will blow it out.)
2) By pass the cluch switch on the pedal so the car will start.
3) put the car in first gear with plenty of open road in front of you.
4) start the car (it will be in gear and take off after some bucking and kicking so BE CAREFULL!!!)
5) drive around in an area with plenty of space so you dont have to stop. Go through the gears and floor board it a few times to try and get the clutch to slip. (Remember do not press the clutch pedal. You will have to sycroshift which our cars are pretty easy to do)
6) If it still slips you know for sure it is a clutch/pressure plate problem.
7) If it is working just fine then it is either a slave or clutch master cylinder problem.
That is pretty much what I would do if I suspected a hydraulic problem.
I would also recommend as above taking it to a different mechanic.
BTW you will love the flywheel. I recommend all solid motor mounts too.
Doing what I just described is free and easy if you know what you are doing.Whoa! Hold on there a minute. That's some crazy stuff to do for a hydraulic problem. If it's really a hydraulic problem, the clutch pedal will have lots of play, perhaps even sinking to the floor or near it. That's all it takes to identify that as a cause (that and low fluid level). Don't go around killing people or your car.
No one. He did not inspect your clutch. Call the BBB or talk to the shop manager about getting a refund. If they say no we inspected your clutch and it really is just a bad slave cylinder then say "Fine replace it and I'll pay you." That should cost under $100-150. If they give it back and you are no longer slipping then hold off on the clutch replacement until it is truely needed. However, I think we all agree that your clutch is bad and needs replacement AND the mechanic looking at your car was/is a shitbag and should not be trusted.AND WHO THE HELL CAN PULL A TRANNY/CLUTCH PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND DRIVE IT AGAIN IN LESS THAN 2 HOURS?!?!?!
Mileage makes do difference on the clutch if you are not ingauging and disingauging it. I just drive like a normal person for a while. It is just like a big brake pad and rotor. You have to bed it in....I've read all kinds of break-in procedures for clutches either from manufactures and car enthusiasts, but what is a safe bet for breaking in the new one? I've heard 200 and I've heard 500, but I've also heard take it downtown and do a lot of stop and go's real nice and easy...but I also heard that clutches don't have break in periods
I guess that is a jab at me.There's no need to do anything ridiculous like ramming a car with poor clutch engagement into gear and letting it take off.