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Discussion Starter #1
So besides my clutch slipping my mechanic is trying to stiff me I think.
Setup:
2000 GT, manual tranny, obviously....

Clutch has been slipping for a while now, as in, I press the gas pedal, the RPM's jump and the speed does not :(

I bought an Exedy Stage 1 clutch kit and a Fidanza lightweight flywheel, took it to the mechanic and told him to replace them.

He calls me about 2 hours later and says he drove the car, didn't feel the clutch slip at all, took it apart and inspected the clutch, and "didn't see any wear." Put it back together, drove it again, and still didn't feel it slip.

So I figured maybe it was in my imagination? So I pick my car up around midnight (I work 2nd shift)...with a $125 bill for labor?

I drive it home and the clutch slips still...So I take it back the next day, and I drive with him in the car, take my left foot, stick it out the window, and jam on the gas pedal at 35mph in 4th gear. The RPM's jump from about 1.5k to 3.5k then drop back down and then my spedometer goes up.

Then he tell's me its my slave cylinder...so I have the wife press on the clutch as I watch the cylinder go back and forth and I didn't see it act erratically (didn't stick when engaged or hesitate on the way back.)

So my question...could it be the slave cylinder and I'm not catching something, or is my clutch (about 4 years old) just worn out and needs to be replaced?....AND WHO THE HELL CAN PULL A TRANNY/CLUTCH PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND DRIVE IT AGAIN IN LESS THAN 2 HOURS?!?!?!
 

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(b)org banugee
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It sounds like he isn't interested in doing the job, but still wants some money from you. You should be concerned with insisting that he does do the job; perhaps his reticence results from lack of skill or knowledge.
 

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(b)org banugee
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He probably didn't know the trick for separating the transaxle from the engine on this car and gave up, saying that he didn't see any wear.
 

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You could do this:

1) Pull the slave cylinder out of the trans (be sure to get the push rod out of it so it wont fall out while driving. DONT STEP ON THE CLUTCH WHILE THE SLAVE IS REMOVED or you will blow it out.)

2) By pass the cluch switch on the pedal so the car will start.
3) put the car in first gear with plenty of open road in front of you.
4) start the car (it will be in gear and take off after some bucking and kicking so BE CAREFULL!!!)
5) drive around in an area with plenty of space so you dont have to stop. Go through the gears and floor board it a few times to try and get the clutch to slip. (Remember do not press the clutch pedal. You will have to sycroshift which our cars are pretty easy to do)

6) If it still slips you know for sure it is a clutch/pressure plate problem.
7) If it is working just fine then it is either a slave or clutch master cylinder problem.

That is pretty much what I would do if I suspected a hydraulic problem.
I would also recommend as above taking it to a different mechanic.
BTW you will love the flywheel. I recommend all solid motor mounts too.
 

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Ah yes...
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I would say drop it on the highway. Go about 60mph in 5th gear. Then go WOT. If it happens again with the RPM spike, it definitely a clutch since it slips under load.

I say find a new place to go and install the parts. This guy seems like a idiot.
 

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(b)org banugee
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You could do this:

1) Pull the slave cylinder out of the trans (be sure to get the push rod out of it so it wont fall out while driving. DONT STEP ON THE CLUTCH WHILE THE SLAVE IS REMOVED or you will blow it out.)

2) By pass the cluch switch on the pedal so the car will start.
3) put the car in first gear with plenty of open road in front of you.
4) start the car (it will be in gear and take off after some bucking and kicking so BE CAREFULL!!!)
5) drive around in an area with plenty of space so you dont have to stop. Go through the gears and floor board it a few times to try and get the clutch to slip. (Remember do not press the clutch pedal. You will have to sycroshift which our cars are pretty easy to do)

6) If it still slips you know for sure it is a clutch/pressure plate problem.
7) If it is working just fine then it is either a slave or clutch master cylinder problem.

That is pretty much what I would do if I suspected a hydraulic problem.
I would also recommend as above taking it to a different mechanic.
BTW you will love the flywheel. I recommend all solid motor mounts too.
Whoa! Hold on there a minute. That's some crazy stuff to do for a hydraulic problem. If it's really a hydraulic problem, the clutch pedal will have lots of play, perhaps even sinking to the floor or near it. That's all it takes to identify that as a cause (that and low fluid level). Don't go around killing people or your car.
 

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Whoa! Hold on there a minute. That's some crazy stuff to do for a hydraulic problem. If it's really a hydraulic problem, the clutch pedal will have lots of play, perhaps even sinking to the floor or near it. That's all it takes to identify that as a cause (that and low fluid level). Don't go around killing people or your car.
Doing what I just described is free and easy if you know what you are doing.
LOL knowone has to be killed but if you are not familiar with doing stuff like this then I would just take it to someone else.

It is probaly just a clutch. If there were doubt in my mind and it was my own car or a customers car though I would do what I wrote above.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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AND WHO THE HELL CAN PULL A TRANNY/CLUTCH PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AND DRIVE IT AGAIN IN LESS THAN 2 HOURS?!?!?!
No one. He did not inspect your clutch. Call the BBB or talk to the shop manager about getting a refund. If they say no we inspected your clutch and it really is just a bad slave cylinder then say "Fine replace it and I'll pay you." That should cost under $100-150. If they give it back and you are no longer slipping then hold off on the clutch replacement until it is truely needed. However, I think we all agree that your clutch is bad and needs replacement AND the mechanic looking at your car was/is a shitbag and should not be trusted.

If they do anymore checking on the clutch then ask them to take a pic after the tranny has been dropped, as proof. I bet they say no one has a camera phone, LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you guys for all your input. I'm 100% sure its the clutch now, tried a few of your guy's ideas and let the wife drive it so I could get a nice whiff of nasty burning clutch. I tried it his way with the slave cylinder and bought one (buddy works at O'reilly's so I got one for $15) and he put it in today. He tried to charge me $60 for labor, but I said let's go for a drive first....yup, it still slips. I told him I'm not paying a dime until I WATCH him put the new clutch and flywheel (excited for 9lbs of goodness :D) I'm taking it in on Saturday. I think I'm going to be a prick about it and only pay him the difference between what he quoted me the first time and what I payed him for "labor," and I'm not paying him jack for the slave cylinder...If he would have just done what I told him to in the first place, then I wouldn't have had to buy one in the first place.

If he really did pull it and "inspect" it the first time, then he should be able to breeze right through it this time, so we'll see how it goes.

Thanks again for all the input and advice, I'll post what happened Saturday evening...But before I go...I've read all kinds of break-in procedures for clutches either from manufactures and car enthusiasts, but what is a safe bet for breaking in the new one? I've heard 200 and I've heard 500, but I've also heard take it downtown and do a lot of stop and go's real nice and easy...but I also heard that clutches don't have break in periods :p
 

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(b)org banugee
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It's just as well that you replaced the slave cylinder. It's not uncommon on cars with hydraulically operated clutches for the slave cylinder to fail a few months after the installation of a new clutch.

If you're ever concerned about a hydraulic problem in the future, simply checking the fluid level and verifying pedal feel is all you really need to do. If the pedal ever goes soft, you know what the problem is. There's no need to do anything ridiculous like ramming a car with poor clutch engagement into gear and letting it take off.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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Ninja - Make sure to tell him to keep ALL old parts for you to look at. Dont even pay them if they fail to give you your old parts. This is a way to help prevent fraud and ensure that he replaced ALL the pieces you paid them to replace.

Stop-n-go traffic is how I broke my clutch in. I've also heard you should not drop the clutch (burnout/takeoff/etc) for atleast 500mi.
 

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...I've read all kinds of break-in procedures for clutches either from manufactures and car enthusiasts, but what is a safe bet for breaking in the new one? I've heard 200 and I've heard 500, but I've also heard take it downtown and do a lot of stop and go's real nice and easy...but I also heard that clutches don't have break in periods :p
Mileage makes do difference on the clutch if you are not ingauging and disingauging it. I just drive like a normal person for a while. It is just like a big brake pad and rotor. You have to bed it in.
 
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