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Discussion Starter #1
Ok recently I have had a major problem with my new used eclipse 01. it has 60900 miles on it now and the clutch is fucking up badly. It started off as when i would shift up to the next gear and hit the gas, it would rev up 1k rpms more than what it was before it seemed like the clutch grabbed. It was noticeable but only lasted for a split second for it caught until yesterday....i tried to pull out in first gear and it took up to 5-6k rpms before it actually caught and my car started moving. Once it catches it will drive just fine until i change a different gear to which it does the same. it seems though once i get into 3rd and 4th it is barley drivable. Now though it will stay at 5-6k rpms for like 5 seconds flat until it starts to catch. I do have a limited warranty on several transmission parts knowing my luck whatever needs fixed won't be covered. Does anyone have any ideas? This seems like a problem that would be very obvious to someone who knows about 5-speeds.

Another note is the pedal has no use right now at all it seems. I can keep the car in first gear and let out the clutch and brake pedal and the car will slowly move without shutting off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
so then i need a new clutch? I know my transmission is covered for now so meaning if any damage was done to the tranny itself that will be covered however whats a new clutch to my wallet? Also if i need a new clutch might as get a good one. What is weird is my clutch doesn't seem to want to "disengage" I thought a new clutch was needed when it wouldn't engage. However i have noticed driving with it like this home i could smell the clutch
 

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NUFF SAID
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have you checked the master cylinder and that to make sure they aren't leaking or have air in the lines and that you have fluid.
 

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so then i need a new clutch? I know my transmission is covered for now so meaning if any damage was done to the tranny itself that will be covered however whats a new clutch to my wallet? Also if i need a new clutch might as get a good one. What is weird is my clutch doesn't seem to want to "disengage" I thought a new clutch was needed when it wouldn't engage. However i have noticed driving with it like this home i could smell the clutch
have you checked the master cylinder and that to make sure they aren't leaking or have air in the lines and that you have fluid.
This would match the problem I highlighted above, but wouldn't really explain the clutch engagement problems...it sounds like you probably have a combination of air and/or low fluid in the clutch hydraulic system, as well as a clutch itself that's on it's way out...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was thinking it was the hydraulic system from what i read before. I will check my fluid again since someone recently told me to check while the car is on. I will take it to a shop to have it looked at since i know nothing about cars. I have a haynes repair manual but know hardly anything. So when you say my "clutch is on it's way out" you mean it's the whole entire clutch or the flywheel itself burning up. I would have no problem paying 200 bucks or so for a decent upgrade to my clutch if they have to get into my clutch itself to fix it. It shifted a bit rough i thought.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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your clutch is probably not covered unless its new and was misinstalled (highly unlikely). I believe the clutch would be considered a maintainence item... could be wrong... check your contract and/or call.

the flywheel is solid metal and doesn't really wear. it should be fine. a new clutch ($200-400) usually costs about $300-600 to have installed (they have to remove the tranny which takes awhile).

the rough shifts would probably be more related to the transmission and, @ 60k miles, old tranny fluid could be the culprit. That fluid will have to be replaced when they change out the clutch anyway and that should be part of the clutch install cost. :yesway:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The manual clutch assembly is not covered I know that. Once again though I wouldn't mind putting in a nice clutch as an upgrade since it only has 60k miles and i want this car to last me another 6 years or so more than what that car had it. How much would you say a good clutch would cost on average after labor. I heard that ACT ones are good.
 

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your clutch is probably not covered unless its new and was misinstalled (highly unlikely). I believe the clutch would be considered a maintainence item... could be wrong... check your contract and/or call.

the flywheel is solid metal and doesn't really wear. it should be fine. a new clutch ($200-400) usually costs about $300-600 to have installed (they have to remove the tranny which takes awhile).

the rough shifts would probably be more related to the transmission and, @ 60k miles, old tranny fluid could be the culprit. That fluid will have to be replaced when they change out the clutch anyway and that should be part of the clutch install cost. :yesway:
:agreed:

Depending on the condition, the flywheel may be due for just a resurfacing. Other than that, by the clutch "being on it's way out" I was referring to the friction disc being worn beyond it's servicable limits...if that's the case, at the very least you'd need to replace that, but may also be due for a new pressure plate, throw out bearing, and resurface the flywheel as stated...
 

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Also, take your time and search through a lot of the threads in here...some people have had bad experiences with some of the clutches that are out there...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Would i be able to bleed the lines of my clutch fluid myself? Still i guess that wouldn't matter since my clutch problem is really disengagement.
 

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Would i be able to bleed the lines of my clutch fluid myself? Still i guess that wouldn't matter since my clutch problem is really disengagement.
You have that backwards...bleeding the lines would help with a disengagement problem...when you push the clutch pedal in, you're actually disengaging the clutch. Check that Haynes manual you have to see if it has clutch bleeding procedures...if not, search here to see if you can find them, or look in the Factory Service Manual that has been posted up...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Oh so really this problem would have nothing to do with replacing the whole clutch (that is if i haven't burnt it up yet) I drove it about 20 miles like this total so far to work and back. I hope I haven't done any major damage. I could smell the clutch but still...
 

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It sounds like you have two problems.

1. Hard to disengage: This is probably caused by air and/or low fluid in your clutch hydraulic system.

2. Slow to engage: This is probably caused by a worn clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
what have i said to make it seem like it engages slow? I'm confused on which is disengaging and engaging...i know that when you hit the clutch pedal you disengage it. However at this point my clutch pedal doesn't work at all.....what it seems like to me is that the clutch is being held in all the way but a little bit to let the car move...except all the time. I'm guessing how long it takes for it to spin the wheels is the clutch itself then...even though the car starts to move on it's on so wouldn't that be "engaging" in the first place?
 

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what have i said to make it seem like it engages slow? I'm confused on which is disengaging and engaging...i know that when you hit the clutch pedal you disengage it. However at this point my clutch pedal doesn't work at all.....what it seems like to me is that the clutch is being held in all the way but a little bit to let the car move...except all the time. I'm guessing how long it takes for it to spin the wheels is the clutch itself then...even though the car starts to move on it's on so wouldn't that be "engaging" in the first place?
I may not be understanding your correctly, but it sounds like this is what you're saying. When you push the clutch pedal in, it does not fully disengage. In addition, when you let the clutch pedal out, the clutch does not engage right away and you have to rev the engine up before the vehicle starts moving. Is that correct?

If you are stopped, push the clutch pedal in and hold it, put the transmission in first gear, then release the clutch pedal, the car should start to move as soon as the clutch starts engaging...you shouldn't have to rev the engine as high as you're stating. That is of course provided you're trying to start out in first gear...are you? Sorry, but I guess the question had to be asked. If you are trying to start out in first gear and the car does not start to move as you let the clutch pedal out, at least until you rev the engine up a bit, then your clutch is not properly engaging.

If you put the transmission in first gear and let the clutch out without pressing the gas pedal at all, does the car start to buck and stall out, or does it continue to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
here is exactly what happens.

If i start up the car and put it in first gear, i can just hold in the brake and it won't move OR stall out. When i release the brake the car starts to move very slowly without me pressing ANY pedals in at all. If i try to hit the gas at this point and only the gas the car rev's up very high and sometimes it bounced of the limiter before the car's wheels seemed to actually start getting power to them, when this happens it feels as though i was intentionally trying to burn out.
However once the car does eventually get power to the wheels, it will drive normal as long as I am in that gear. When I change any gear the process of feeling as though i have the clutch held in while trying to hit the gas occurs again. It's a very weird problem

I live about 50 miles southwest of Pittsburgh, PA.

Also, to fix anything in the clutch such as the cylinders does that also take hours and need of the tranny taken out or is it a simple job.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
update....i tried to start up my car this morning and now it won't even move at all. Now It won't even engage at all...i'm pretty sure the clutch is shot now.
 
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