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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are you guy's thoughts on their wet kit? I went by their shop and picked one up along with that dual purge valve they have. I'm going to run a 75 shot on my stock 01 GT with sport. trans. I plan to only use it maybe 3 or 4 times a month max.

Also this would be my first time dealing with an Eclipse in terms of any kind of performance upgrades (and might be last if GM decides to actually release those new Camaros anytime soon). Does anyon have one of those installed or have pics of their setup? And any suggestions in where to mount my bottle, run my lines from my bottle in the trunk to my solenoids, where I should tap into my fuel line, where I should get the 12v for my switches, and a good/easy place to mount them would be greatly appreciated, and pics even more soo. I still need to decide where I want the lines from my purge going out at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
wow, no one has any suggestions or tips or at least some constructive critisism?
 

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Ok, I dont know anything about that particular kit but here's how I had my zex run, I'm not saying its the best way or anything.. just my experience. As far as the nitrous / fuel distribution blocks for your setup I have no idea. The system I had only had 1 nozzle that mounted in the intake piping about 12" from the throttle body.

Its probably best to have a high pressure fuel hose made that has a AN style T on it. However, I cut my stock fuel hose and added a T about midway from the firewall to the throttle body. I recommend a high pressure braided fuel line even though I didnt have one when I installed my setup.

As far as mounting the switches I had a single DIN stereo in my eclipse and used a DIN sized panel from Ignited Performance, along with their lighted purge switch and aircraft style covered toggles for arming and bottle heater. I had to dremel out a square hole for my zex remote bottle opener switch and I mounted the switche panel above my Headunit in the factory dual DIN radio opening. It looked and worked great! I grounded all connections inside the car to the main dash bulkhead on the car. Some of the wiring was run down the tunnel to the back of the car (bottle heater, remote bottle opener), all wiring was routed meticulously and zip tied.

As far as the wiring and nitrous hose that has to go into the engine compartment - Jack up the front drivers side of the car and remove the wheel. Remove the driver side fender liner (start at the back part of the fender) and you will see a grommet that goes into the cabin that the main wiring harness goes through. Dont damage the harness that is there. I cut a new hole in the grommet and ran all of my wires (3) that I needed and my nitrous hose. There are also clips that you can zip-tie your nitrous line to. The line is long enough if you go this route (zex comes w/16' hose I think). Run the nitrous hose down the left side door jam (inside car), through the back panels (dont need to take off), and into the hatch area. I mounted my bottle in the hatch area front to back on the spare tire cover. You could build up the cover a little as it's pretty flimsy. If you have really good inspection at the stip this might not pass. Really it should be outside of the car but I didnt want to drill holes.

I mounted my purge solenoid bracket (bent to sit right) under the factory horn and routed the purge line to the hood scoop on my invader style hood. I attached the +12v purge wire to the purge, solder and shrink wrap.

I used a relay in-between the throttle position sensor and the TPS wire that ran to my Zex control box (mounted on front of battery tray). Use the +12v switched (arming) to power the Nitrous brain (Zex Module). I had a MSD digital RPM window switch provide ground to the relay which in turn triggered the Zex Module to spray nitrous / fuel. The rpm window switch's rpm/tach signal was provided by the crank position sensor pin on the ECU (inside the car). I mounted the window switch on the left side of the "tunnel" about where the shifter is.. maybe a little farther forward. The MSD box is powered from the same +12v arming switch as the Zex module.

I soldered and shrink wrapped or used insulated male/female connectors for all connections. I ran 3 wires from the engine compartment to the cabin area of the vehicle ( purge +12v, Zex +12v provided by arming switch, MSD -12v relay activation) along with the nitrous hose. The arming switch turned on the Zex module and the MSD window switch.

Shameless plug: this whole setup is for sale. PM me if interested. I bought an Evo and dont need it anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow, thanks. I was thinking that I couldnt have my nozzle further than 6" away from my throttle body. I might have to run my line from the bottle outside the car because I dont want to risk running in to trouble getting it from the trunk (which that 10lb bottle barely fits in) past the compartment that my top rests in when its down. I dont really se a major problem in me having to do that except how to seal the whole that I run the line out of soo water doesnt splash up into the trunk.

More than likely I'm going to try to put the WOT that came with it in, or since I have an automatic trans I might just use a button to activate the solenoids. I think I'm smart enough to know when not to push it on the few times I plan on using it. Ive never put in a window switch on any car that Ive had prior to this one, soo I wouldnt know where to begin with installing one. The guy at this shop that wanted to install it for me laughed when I asked if they had bottle heaters. Told me that the weather her in Houston would create enough heat. I'll try it for once or twice without one then if I need it I'll add it.

Where'd you get you 12v from? Strait from the battery (which I normally dont see done alot but have seen)
 

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Your welcome. concerning distance from the TB, I suggest checking your specific kit's documentation. The Zex specifies 6-18 inches or something. Is the WOT activation that came with the kit a micro switch or an electronic switch that connects to your existing throttle position sensor? If it's a micro switch my suggestion would be getting a good electronic WOT activation switch, I think NX has one that will work for you. It looks like your kit was designed for domestic applications (camaros and mustangs), but it shouldnt matter much as long as its properly adapted. I am not going to tell you what to do as far as safety features / methods of activation but I will tell you that we will not have any sympathy for you when you blow your motor because you decided a Fast and Furious push button activation was the way to go - but like I said - do what you want to. If you blow your engine be a man and say that it was because you thought you were smart enough to not need safety features. Dont blame the nitrous kit or nitrous itself. Again, I highly recommend a window switch (Jegs 89.00) and WOT activation.

I got my 12v from the cig lighter circuit. Check your kit's documentation as to how many amps your kit needs, you may have to create a circuit for them, if so use fuses where you need them. I also had an illumination circuit (illuminated switches), I got that from the heater control light because I had the heater control illlumination unplugged anyhow.

As far as the guy at the shop, find a new shop. It doesnt sould like he knows very much about using nitrous. After you release nitrous from the bottle it will cool the bottle temp (possibly icing over). Also we have cold months here in Texas and you also use a heater when your bottle is less than half full to keep the bottle pressure up. Before you get a heater get a pressure gauge, then you'll know if you need a heater. I'll admit I didnt use mine that much but a blanket answer "you dont need one cause you live in Houston" is just WRONG.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thats why I didnt let the guy at that shop put it in. I was also looking at some window switches, MSD will most likely be the one I'll get as long as it comes with some good instructions, http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...atalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=24357 I want that one, soo I'm going to see if Autozone has it because I know they have the other ones. The only pressure gauge that I have right now is the one on the bottle. If I can find a store around that will sell that din panel, buttons, and the black cover for the switches I could get started installing right now.
 

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IMHO the bottle pressure gauge is fine. You should check all components before a run anyhow and you can look at the pressure then.

The MSD does not have very good instructions but it's not very difficult to install. Here are the details of every wire that needs to be connected. Each piece is very simple but looking at all of it can get confusing.

DONT FORGET TO CHANGE YOUR PLUGS TO A COLDER PLUG (ZEX HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)

ARM SWITCH connections
+12v Connect to 12v Cig lighter circuit for example
+12v switch output Connect to 86 on main relay and 86 WOT/MSD Relay and MSD Window Switch RED +12v

MSD Window Switch connections
BLACK -12vchassis ground
RED +12v switched (connect to ARM switch output)
WHITE tach signal (connect to ECU Crank position sensor pin)
YELLOW -12v (connect to WOT/MSD relay 85)

WOT/ MSD RELAY connections
85 -12v (connect to MSD YELLOW -12v)
86 +12v (connect to arming switch output +12v)
87 -12v connect to main relay 85
30 -12v micro switch

MAIN RELAY Connections
85 -12v WOT/MSD RELAY
86 +12v Connect to ARM switch output
87 +12v Nitrous / Fuel solenoids
30 +12v fused

WOT SWITCH connections
-12v ground
-12v switch output Connect to WOT/MSD RELAY 30
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks. I went to autozone and asked for that MSD digital Rpm switch and they looked at me like I was crazy :lmfao: then told me that that wont work with my car. I'll just order it from Jegs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I cant seem to find an electronic WOT switch. I looked at NX's website but I didnt see one. Is there another manufacturer that I could get one from? I just order that MSD digital RPM window switch yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well my MSD digital RPM window switch just got here. Now I am waiting for my Din panel and purge button. I think I might keep the WOT micro-switch and put it by my accelerator. If that is a reasonable idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Question about my purge...

Ok' I bought a dual purge kit from ColdFusion but no hoses to vent it came with when every other kit I see comes with them. Still, what type of hoses or pipes should I get and from where?
 
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