crack in radiator

radiator is very easy to replace, autozone charges about 130 for it.

That's a common issue. Mine did that and I bought it brand new, aftermarket of course from a local place called Radiator Outlet for about 120. Might check the yellow pages for one similar and local to you.

ebay usually sells used ones for 80 shipped

You will kick yourself in the nuts if you get an internal leak sealant.

I wouldn't use that radiator stop leak unless you are seriously tight for cash or unless maybe I was on the highway and trying to make it home in an emergency.

It will only be a bandaide on a gushing wound and you could risk damage to your engine if you let it go and over heat it. With summer coming it will only get worse. Some of the stop leak stuff clogs up your thermostat and who knows what else also. It is intended to stop small leaks temporarily like the seams where the tanks are glued to the radiator. Not where the tank is split.

THE_SilverBullet said:

Just noticed this weeekend I have a slight 2-3" crack in the top of the radiator, just to the left of the cap itself. Called the dealership and obviously they want $880 to replace the radiator with a stock one (parts and labor). Instead, Im going to get some "Barrs" leak sealant that my brother suggested. Not sure if that will do the trick, but worth a shot. Doubt anyone else ran into this problem before. If so, what did you do other then replace the radiator? Just curious. BTW I have a 2000 GT only 74K miles.

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Crack in the radiator? bag it up and sell it! ..... jk

I have used the stop leak on beater cars, and it worked about 50% of the time. I wouldn't use it on my strat, but thats just me.

And if the crack is on the metal part, it probably can be welded by a radiator repair shop for under $100 with labor and everything, maby even less. If its on the plastic, I think it must be replaced.

Im not technically short on cash, but didnt want to shell out $880 at the dealership right now. I have a trip planned Saturday so was hoping to get it fixed by then. If Im going to have the dealership do it, then I need to act now, they need 1-2 days to order it. Not sure if the dealership will install one for me that I bring in new myself. I will ask them tomorrow. Thanks guys.

Just go to a local auto repair shop and have them order one for you from a NAPA or Discount Auto. The job is almost fool proof and you'll save about $600

called Auto Zone. they have 2 kinds. a "performance" for $305 and another for $250 or so. Im assuming the less expensive is the stock which is fine with me. The dealership will install for me but for $400+ for the labor. Overall will save me $200-$300. Considering I have to get it fixed now, I think I'll go that route. No reason I should spend the extra $$ for the "performance" radiator, right? Appreciate everyone's help and input.

I had the same exact thing happen about 2 months ago, I replaced mine from radiatorexpress.com with an aluminum CSF radiator. Install was the easiest thing I've ever done. Was about 270ish$.

THE_SilverBullet said:

called Auto Zone. they have 2 kinds. a "performance" for $305 and another for $250 or so. Im assuming the less expensive is the stock which is fine with me. The dealership will install for me but for $400+ for the labor. Overall will save me $200-$300. Considering I have to get it fixed now, I think I'll go that route. No reason I should spend the extra $$ for the "performance" radiator, right? Appreciate everyone's help and input.

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I don't see how a radiator can be performance and not. A stock one will be fine, unless your car was overheating from the get-go. I'd just grab the cheaper one personally, and do NOT take it to the stealership to install it, but rather an ASE certified mechanic shop, and have them do it.

GSXROFDFW said:

I wouldn't use that radiator stop leak unless you are seriously tight for cash or unless maybe I was on the highway and trying to make it home in an emergency.

It will only be a bandaide on a gushing wound and you could risk damage to your engine if you let it go and over heat it. With summer coming it will only get worse. Some of the stop leak stuff clogs up your thermostat and who knows what else also. It is intended to stop small leaks temporarily like the seams where the tanks are glued to the radiator. Not where the tank is split.

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:agreed: Did this last year. It temporarily fixed the leak, but ended up causing my thermostat to stick! Ended up just getting a new radiator and thermostat. Very easy DIY job I would say. Definitly don't see a reason or how a radiator could be "performance" either. Go w. the cheap one, check your local radiator shop to I got mine for 130.

00TampaBlueGT said:

:agreed: Did this last year. It temporarily fixed the leak, but ended up causing my thermostat to stick! Ended up just getting a new radiator and thermostat. Very easy DIY job I would say. Definitly don't see a reason or how a radiator could be "performance" either. Go w. the cheap one, check your local radiator shop to I got mine for 130.

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performance one is prob an all alumium one, dont even bother.

I ordered the less expensive one for $250 from Auto Zone. I realize this is something I could probably do myself, but Im not going to bother with it. I have to get it fixed BEFORE Saturday, as Im goin on a long trip, thats the reason for the rush. I will call the local gas station near me who's done some work in the past, and see what they will charge to install it for me. The dealer wants $400+ for labor. I dont mind paying that to be honest only cause I trust the dealer for certain things like this, but if Exxon can do it cheaper, Ill go with them. If I wasnt in such a rush to get it replaced by Saturday, I might have been able to do it myself with help of my brother. Oh well. Bad timing. And NO, the car was never overheating before, so glad I did get the less expensive one! Thanks again everyone!!!

Dude, its less than an hour job, plus materials. Even at $75/hour plus coolant, it shouldn't be too much at a normal shop. I pulled my radiator the other day within like 25 minutes.

Seriously, if you have an hour, you can do it. You

drain the coolant, unplug the fan control switch, disconnect the hoses, unbolt the top brackets, pull the old radiator out

swap over the fans, bolt them in, bolt in the radiator, hook up the hoses, refil the coolant, hook up the fans. Run it to circulate it, then top it off after it cools a bit.

dont use stopleak on a car you plan to keep, it plugs the leak...and every other small passage. like those in the heater core and radiator.


you should expect to pay about 2hrs labor plus hose clamps plus coolant. now is a great time to have them also change the hoses before one of those bursts. thermostat can be done at this time also since the cooling system is already drained.

i didnt buy or use the sealant for it. Just going to ride it out a few days until the new one gets installed. And yes, it may be an hour or two job, but I do not want to risk the chance that I run into a problem if I do it myself, then Im stuck, so Id rather pay a shop to do it for me. Again, Im not worried so much about the money, since Id rather pay them to do it for me.

i was just putting up some of that information for others who will read this thread and ask these questions...not that anyone uses the search.

Update. The local Exxon near me is going to install the new radiator for $110 which does NOT count the new coolant and new hoses, but still should be under $200. Overall with the cost of the radiator I bought ($250) should run about $450 overall. Not bad considering the dealership wanted $880. I feel alot better now!