Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Club banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
what’s up everybody, names Erick.

Been using this site to help me gather info on my 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT v6 5 speed manual. This is kind of a long story but I’m really stumped and could use the 3G community right now. Anyways to get started

I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 3.0 V6 5 speed manual.

About 6 months ago, I made the decision of going to work with my gas light on after driving with it on empty for a few miles. I left work early because I didn’t feel so good. Walked to my Eclipse she started right up gas light on and everything. I knew I needed gas so immediately I headed out to start making way to a gas station near my house. Everything was going smoothly until the car died right out front the gas station just as I was about to pull in. embarrassing got out of the car and tried to push it into the gas station, someone walking saw me and helped me push, Alright! At the gas station car still has power to battery and electronics but I’m assuming I’m completely out of gas at this point so I start filling my tank to max, finish filling try to start the car and nothing just cranks forever! Tried This for a solid 10 minutes, even with throttle all the way pressed and nothing. Luckily my boy decided to come get gas at the same gas station and gave me a ride to auto zone for jumper cables and came back with me to let me use his car as a jump. And to my surprise… nothing car just cranked forever. After another 10 minutes it occurred to me to try a rolling start. Attempted 3 times and still car just cranked. Eventually I called tow truck to have car towed to local shop. Car was at shop for 1 day got it back with a bypass from battery positive terminal to a red wire on a 7 pin connector to distributor. As far as I know this wire allows check engine light/computer and relays to power on? I might be wrong. Anyways overlooking this wire and knowing I had ran out of gas and probably burned out my fuel pump I decided to upgrade to a walboro HP fuel pump from a evo. Changed pump, car started right up I could hear the fuel pump, car ran great except for one thing! Car would not run without the bypass to distributor, and when did run idle was terrible would drop below 800 and try to shut off sometimes even did shut off but would start right back up especially at stop signs, red light or traffic. Along with rough idle it was making whirring noise and If I parked the car long enough usually more than 6 hours battery would go dead but would restart with jumpstart. Anyways fast forward to now about a month ago I completed timing belt and water pump job even changed crank position sensor. Still have the bypass as it is needed for car to run. Scared I might have messed up I put everything back together carefully and prayed car was good and would start up. Unfortunately when I went to try to start car everything was dead. Tested battery with volt meter and was getting 0.00 volts. Replaced battery and to my surprise car started up and sounded amazing ! Me being proud of my work I let it run took some videos, turned it on and off a few times all was working fine. After about 15-20mins of idling and a few revs. I decided it was time to go for a test drive. I get in the car happy as ever that it is running I pull out of the driveway and start driving down my street giving it a little gas so everyone can hear my custom exhaust. Come to stop at end of my street and car dies. No acceleration, no battery light, tried to start it back up just cranked! Pushed car back up my street and into driveway with help of neighbors. Frustrated because I was sure it wasn’t my timing as I doubled checked and car was literally just running. Concerned I might have seized motor I jack car up take wheel off and turn motor by hand! Not seized. At this point I went back to problem with bypass. Every time I connect bypass to positive terminal I can hear relays click on and check engine light comes on and eventually goes away. Without bypass no CEL and no relays click. Traced wire to firewall of car. Assuming this led to Ecu and that Ecu was good I ordered new distributor assembly. Put in new distributor, connected everything back up and prayed again. Car would not start still just cranks. Decided to take dashboard off of car to see if I could trace the wire further but no luck. Did some research and discovered Ecu/check engine light would not come on if mfi relay was not powered on. Took MFI relay out and tested 4 terminals at fuse box only 1 has battery voltage everything has 0.00. Great I thought I was getting somewhere and thought this was a fuel issue. Got a bottle of starting fluid, sprayed into throttle body tried to start car and got a little gurgle soon as I let go of key car died. Tried a few times ultimately giving up because car would not stay on. After unhooking jumper cables I noticed that car went completely dead no electrical power at all. Checked battery with my meter and saw that voltage had dropped to about 7 volts! Charged battery connected positive terminal but not negative as this time I went for a parasitic draw test. My readings 0.00 as well… I doubled checked my multimeter just in case but it is snap-on and it is good. So I started checking all the fuses and relays. discovered 120A alt fusible link connected to battery positive terminal had popped along with fuse #9 engine control fuse in under hood fuse box. Mfi relay was getting whatever little power battery had to first terminal on bottom without jumper pack connected. Replaced 20A fuse and 120A fusible link for alt. Battery was dead grabbed jump pack connected positive first then negative. Jumper made beeping sound when turned on, positive terminal sparked and 120A fusible link blown again! Checked on fuse 9 was also blown tried putting in new 20a fuse and started sparking when putting fuse in. Unplugged fuse box to check wiring and connection all was good. After a few minutes turned everything off took key off ignition put in new 20A fuse and has not blown since even when jumping and turning key to on. Today I replaced 120A Alt fusible link again after charging my battery to 12.4V and connected positive terminal first. When I went to connect negative terminal it started sparking like crazy even made fusible link spark a little but managed to connect it making battery go basically dead at 0.2-0.8V max. Fusible link still intact. I check fuse 9 also still intact. At this point I say screw it and connect jump to car, notice that fusible link starts smoking and starts melting along with my jumper alligator clip. immediately I disconnect jumper and don’t let fusible link melt. I noticed that red lead on my jumper was really hot to touch. So I start feeling wires around fusible link and felt white and red wire was hot to touch compared to others. Traced wire back to alternator. So now I am here. Sorry for the really long back and forth story but this has been an on going issue for me and before I replace Alternator and or ECU i would like any feedback you guys can give me, maybe any other tests I may be able to run or even if you guys think it’s time for me to let the car die but I would really like to get this solved asap as I am moving soon and if the car is not running it will not be coming with me which I do not want. I love this car!

here’s some pics of her when she was running 🤌🏻🥹!
Wheel Tire Car Automotive parking light Vehicle registration plate

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Vehicle registration plate
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2001 Spyder GT
Joined
·
473 Posts
^^^ Start with the alternator.

Also, the red wire on your distributor harness should be the 12V power supply to the camshaft position sensor. I'm guessing the shop discovered no power on that wire and just ran a new one to fix it. It would've been neater if they had tied the wire into the bundle, but I think their fix will work. I wouldn't mess with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
@jelazar I changed the distributor because when car ran I had crank and cam sensor codes I thought built in ignition coil had gone bad replaced both crank sensor and distributor assembly but this issue is present. Any reason that the camshaft sensor wouldn’t be getting 12v without bypass? And why relays don’t come on unless bypass is connected as well? I am at the point where even if bypass is connected car will crank forever and just not start. I’m leaning more towards ECU issue but will try to have alternator tested this weekend and update you !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE:
Took car to the stealership. Been there for 2 weeks still don’t have it back but as far as the update goes. Apparently I crushed the crankshaft sensor harness with the motor mount (noob move) and somehow the magnet from my crank sensor fell off and spun inside my timing belt and bent the crank sensor angle blade/ring. They are going to replace these parts and hopefully she’s back as good as ever! Will let you guys know how it be goes!
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top