D2 Coilover Install

Alright so, there is no metal left behind inside the shock and that piece on the back of the hub looks solid and holds the threads for the bolt to secure the shock in place.


Then the center piece of the new coil-over is the same size as the metal male piece on the hub. So it hits perfectly doesn’t not slide over the male hub part.

I had to cut the old shock to get it to remove it didn’t budge a millimeter after 4 hours of prying. Cut one side to loosen the tension and wiggled right off attaching pics so you can see I didn’t cut the male piece or very far into the stock bushing. The male hub piece is just slight scratched from the pickle fork I was using to push off the old shock.

Main question why doesn’t the new coilover slide over? I also noticed a post on here in like 2010 (post link here: D2 Racing Coilovers and Springs ) about D2 coilovers and that center price in the picture of that post is all the way to the left whereas mine is perfectly centered. Does the metal piece come out? Since it is for a galant as well perhaps the galants male piece is a bit smaller and does slide. Maybe the 3g you need to remove the center piece and it just sits on the bushing perhaps?

Looking for anyone who has installed D2 coilovers or has installed any and had this issue. Attaching pics the new coiliover picture you see is from the post i linked depicting the bushing and how its moved. Does it remove? OMG! I just uploaded pictures and now it wont upload any of them just keeps giving me the "not an image as expected" error even though its pics of a hub and shock ffs....(trying to upload pics now)

@joeyoey0 Made the post to sell the D2 coilovers that i linked in the previous post. I had to edit each picture in order for the forum to accept them. Here's the pics for reference to the last post.

Okay I see the inner metal piece you can see where it sits against that nut, it hasn't budged at all. Okay so....how can i remove that without damaging the Hub? I tried to get anything to budge for 1 hour on day one then sprayed it all with wd40 to try to loosen this up before I decided to cut on day 2. Rounded Vicegrip and twist with WD to loosen is what I'm gonna go try for a while now...anyone have any tricks for that I know these are notorious to cease.

It bows outward near the nut as well. Is that where it links? Shouldn’t it be flush if you look at the picture you can see how there is sort of a flange before the nut and you can see the seam where the metal meets. Is that where it should separate if so why is it flanged outward?

If you never completely removed the bolt, it will need to be removed eventually anyway.
And yes, you definitely want to avoid breaking it off, as has happened to others here. You need to Dremel off all that excess bushing material to completely expose the bolt. Then soak the bolt with PB blaster and let it seep in overnight, adding more PB blaster every few hours to the crevice between the bolt and entrance hole. Try not to mess up the threads on the bolt too much, although the important threads are not exposed really, being inside the knuckle still at this point. Use a breaker bar to remove the bolt, or an air wrench since it is a rather thick bolt that should withstand the force. If it won't budge, consider disassembling the knuckle and bringing it to a machine shop to get the stuck bolt out, probably from both sides of the car. If one is frozen, the other one likely is too. The shop will probably use heat, which most diy-ers don't have.
This is the type of repair that can easily turn into a nightmare and having to replace more parts than you expected. Prepare your head and wallet for that possibility. The worst case scenario will be having to replace your knuckles with used ones, as they are discontinued.

Your saying completely remove the inner strut metal bushing that is stuck on the outer part before trying to remove the bolt yeah?

I may do the machine shop option…..but to be clear the bolt you are saying to remove is tha massive one I have the wrench on and do that AFTER I deemed off that metal material left from the strut?

No, what you have the wrench on is more like an adapter plug, which screws into the knuckle on one side, and the actual mounting through bolt screws into that adapter. So when you are removing the bolt, you have to put one wrench on the adapter, and another wrench on the through bolt head. The mounting bolt has to completely unscrew from the adapter in order to remove the strut.
In one of your pictures, it appears the mounting bolt is still in place, perhaps you screwed it back in a bit after removing the strut? But in another pic, the bolt is removed.
So apparently you were able to remove one bolt but not the other, and thus needed to cut the strut. In any case, it looks like the bushing and it's metal sleeves on both sides is still attached, and that's what needs to be removed entirely. So when installing, the mounting bolt goes through the pre-installed bushing and sleeve of the new strut and attaches to the "adapter" which in turn is screwed into the knuckle.
Sooooo, on the side where there is no mounting bolt now installed, try tapping on the seized bushing/sleeve with a hammer as the metal sleeve is probably seized to the adapter. Not too hard though cuz you don't want that adapter to break off.
As a precaution, try pushing a pencil into the open end of that seized sleeve to check if the bolt broke off when removing it. The pencil should go in enough to reach the outer edge of the adapter. When you are sure there is no remaining bolt piece, use a Dremel to cut the sleeve off "at the outer edge of the adapter nut" assuming you weren't successful with the hammer.
The reason you don't want to cut through a seized bolt is so that you still have something to grip when you finally get the sleeve off from around it. This of course assumes the head broke off the bolt.
If on the other side of the car the bolt is seized inside the adapter, with the sleeve also seized around the bolt, then carefully Dremel off the sleeve WITHOUT cutting into the bolt or adapter nut.
As for the sleeve not being centered in the new struts, I am assuming that is by design to create some clearance. However, you should check the instructions to determine if the protruding side is suppose to flush against the adapter plug, or turned around instead.

I have a “cut off tool” as harbor freight labels it 3” cut off wheel.
So just slice the left over metal piece obviously try not to hit the bolt.

GOT IT THANKS!!!

I didn’thave to cut it all the way just enough to get it to spin once it could spinninknewnit was loose and here we are!

It’s on. And yes the bolts were removed just the center metal piece was stuck but it now not and replaced with D2’s thanks for the help!