[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

Well I'm installing the D2's on the 3g however ran into an issue with the back and not positive on how to solve. D2 is not open on the weekends and I notice a lot of you have installed them on your 3g. So whats up with the back coil-overs? Do I need to remove this center metal piece on the coil-over? or rather change something on my hub? The front went in no issue the back of course was harder to disassemble the stock that was stuck on there. Attaching pics but why doesn't the D2 just slide over the stock rear hub? And how do I properly install? Without having to wait for D2 to get back to me Monday. Thanks in advance!

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

Thanks for being up early I am too cuz I wanna get this done!!

The old shock doesn’t have a metal bushing it was all just rubber, I still haven’t cleaned off all the rubber from the male part of the hub if you look at the pics I posted you can still see some residue from the old bushing. I just took the D2 coil to see if it lined up and doesn’t I had to cut the old shock to get it to even loosen let me throw pants on and I’ll get some pics. I also see this male part can be removed but fairly certain that if you do remove you no longer can use the bolt as it seems to screw into the male hub piece so if I remove is there threads for the bolt?

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

Alright so, there is no metal left behind inside the shock and that piece on the back of the hub looks solid and holds the threads for the bolt to secure the shock in place.


Then the center piece of the new coil-over is the same size as the metal male piece on the hub. So it hits perfectly doesn’t not slide over the male hub part.

I had to cut the old shock to get it to remove it didn’t budge a millimeter after 4 hours of prying. Cut one side to loosen the tension and wiggled right off attaching pics so you can see I didn’t cut the male piece or very far into the stock bushing. The male hub piece is just slight scratched from the pickle fork I was using to push off the old shock.

Main question why doesn’t the new coilover slide over? I also noticed a post on here in like 2010 (post link here: D2 Racing Coilovers and Springs ) about D2 coilovers and that center price in the picture of that post is all the way to the left whereas mine is perfectly centered. Does the metal piece come out? Since it is for a galant as well perhaps the galants male piece is a bit smaller and does slide. Maybe the 3g you need to remove the center piece and it just sits on the bushing perhaps?

Looking for anyone who has installed D2 coilovers or has installed any and had this issue. Attaching pics the new coiliover picture you see is from the post i linked depicting the bushing and how its moved. Does it remove? OMG! I just uploaded pictures and now it wont upload any of them just keeps giving me the "not an image as expected" error even though its pics of a hub and shock ffs....(trying to upload pics now)

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

@joeyoey0 Made the post to sell the D2 coilovers that i linked in the previous post. I had to edit each picture in order for the forum to accept them. Here's the pics for reference to the last post.

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

Okay I see the inner metal piece you can see where it sits against that nut, it hasn't budged at all. Okay so....how can i remove that without damaging the Hub? I tried to get anything to budge for 1 hour on day one then sprayed it all with wd40 to try to loosen this up before I decided to cut on day 2. Rounded Vicegrip and twist with WD to loosen is what I'm gonna go try for a while now...anyone have any tricks for that I know these are notorious to cease.

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

It bows outward near the nut as well. Is that where it links? Shouldn’t it be flush if you look at the picture you can see how there is sort of a flange before the nut and you can see the seam where the metal meets. Is that where it should separate if so why is it flanged outward?

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

Your saying completely remove the inner strut metal bushing that is stuck on the outer part before trying to remove the bolt yeah?

I may do the machine shop option…..but to be clear the bolt you are saying to remove is tha massive one I have the wrench on and do that AFTER I deemed off that metal material left from the strut?

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

Okay yeah I thought for a sec you were talking about the bolt I had already removed. I was able to get that out but yeah needed to cut the strut sorry I had it depicted as still in. That’s why I asked again for clarification. I thought I might have confused you that way. So glad I did that lol. Yeah I have PB working on what’s left of the struts bushing.

The bolt to secure the strut on is intact and threads fine nothing left inside the knuckle. The only part still stuck is that inner metal part of the struts bushing. And I’m not trying to cut anything else it’s to close for me to be confident if I can’t chisel it off carefully or using heat, and the combination of them then it’ll be removed tomorrow and taken to a machine shop Monday most likely.

I think this sums up what I was looking for only time and careful effort will make it happen. I’ll keep you updated! Thanks for the advice!

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

I have a “cut off tool” as harbor freight labels it 3” cut off wheel.
So just slice the left over metal piece obviously try not to hit the bolt.

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

GOT IT THANKS!!!

I didn’thave to cut it all the way just enough to get it to spin once it could spinninknewnit was loose and here we are!

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

It’s on. And yes the bolts were removed just the center metal piece was stuck but it now not and replaced with D2’s thanks for the help!

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

Bolt too!

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

Well semi congrats....here we are days later and I'm ready to pull my hair out, whoever said "it can turn into a nightmare" you're not wrong. I got the shock and everything ready to go except the camber kit....I have 3 of 4 coilovers installed. 1 of 2 rear camber kits installed. Actually, both are installed now but the arm it connects too well I'll tell ya....the same side that had the ceased shock has ceased everything. I replaced the front end's bushings and control arms a year ago or so and thought that sucked. This is so much worse. So here's where it's at the bushing where the camber kit would go in is ceased. The bushing where the upper control arm meets the knuckle So thus I could not remove the upper control arm from the knuckle. I let it soak for 1 day in PB tried to punch it out, shock the bolt, heat it, use a ratchet to get it spinning (snapped the head off) the nut came off though so, I was left with a broken bolt with a threaded end sticking out. Let it soak/heat/shock attempt/hammer/twist for a total of 4 days for the record throughout all this. Tried an extraction kit day 2. That sucked the “extractor” never gripped. So I tapped the hole I made with a M8X1.25 and got a 14mm head bolt to screw into the old bolt so I could wrench on it again and try to break it free with PB/heat combo again. Broke that bolt too eventually. So re drilled and tried a better extaction kit day 3. That one was much better the twist type extractor absolutely gripped, even twisted the rubber but the bolt refused to break free from the inner bushing sleeve. For the record, this bushing was stuck when I made the post about the shock too and was soaking as well as occasionally being worked on. All that was done with the pieces still in the car. Yesterday Day 4 I decided to pull the entire knuckle and upper control arm, so I remove the hub the other control arm and etc to get this piece out. Decided to try to drill it out all the while using the better extraction kit whenever trying to get the bolt to break loose from the bushing. I had to cut the bracket in order to remove it as I didn't have a dremel that could get at the bolt without removing the bracket first. (It’s fine don’t care about the bracket a new one needs to be installed from the camber kit anyways.) So removed the entire piece and drilled/extract attempt/drill again etc. Did that all last night even drilled 2 different size holes through the whole bolt STILL was holding onto that bushing by rust....like FR!? It'd rather be drilled through twice than release from that bushing. Okay? So I figured screw it, you wanna be drilled lets drill! Got the best damn drill bit I could buy today to get this DONE! right!? WRONG! Got home from work was like HELL YEAH lets get it! Drilled halfway through the bushing going smooth chomping away.....the outer rubber lets go.....rubber spins....drilling ceases.....I have a half drilled out bolt with a hole too small for my camber kit bolt. A ruined bushing that I know is ceased beyond all belief, the bushing now moves but inner sleeve, yeah ceased...the rest of the control arm wont even come apart entirely its ceased up so.....yeah. They don't sell the rear upper control arm with bushings in it or out of it for that matter.....so I'm back to square one essentially. I need an entirely new (junkyard kind of new) rear upper control arm and the knuckle. My knuckle is fine but honestly I'm afraid to try to get this bolt connecting the knuckle and the upper control arm out since it is the reason I chose the pull all of it as the bushing spins before the bolt breaks loose. But yeah figured I'd update ya and let you all know it wasn't over at that last post. The coilovers have yet to have the entire weight of the car due to our 5 day bushing!

So yeah cross my fingers and hope I can find one that isn’t as ceased as mine was. Really don’t wanna pay the price of having a new bushing pressed in….I don’t have a press for that, the up front ones I was able to rig out fairly easily compared to this. Plus getting the outer sleeve of this bushing out to do it myself I honestly don’t even wanna discuss or think about right now. They don't sell this bushing either they do sell the other one on this arm but not the two in the back that attach to the chassis. The entire rear end kit is like $70-100 depending on the color. Anyone have and like those? Even with that still have the issue of the outer sleeve of the bushing being clearly rusted and ceased along with the rest of the the driver's rear end. So pull a different one is the most promising I think for me. Unless anyone knows where you can buy a new upper control arm? For just in case purposes at least? Or if anyone has a spare one? Part car extra maybe??

Weigh in with options, if you so feel, wanna get it back on the road!

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

We have similar minds my friend. I looked into those bushings and the entire rear end kit is $70-100 depending on the color. They don’t sell just this bushing. They do singularly sell the bushing for the center of the control arm though.

So I chose junkyard, figured couldn’t hurt to have a spare knuckle and upper control arm anyways then I can do the bushing kit later. Saves me money now assuming I can get the same bolt out of this one with better luck. If not regardless I’ll need the bushing kit and can return what I got within 30 days for store credit. Which I use often….in fact used store credit to buy half of it today.

So I was able to pull a knuckle and upper control arm today in about an hour so it was less seized than mine. But had to pull the shock too as it is stuck in the same way mine was. So I am doing a ball joint press type set up with the new upper control arm as has the same bolt seized as well. I tried to impact it loose and don’t want to break this bolt too. So I am doing basically what you said I got a giant C clamp and rigged some sockets agains the bolt so it can pull through on the side that still has the head (this one’s head isn’t broken) and another socket so my clamp doesn’t slip off. I’m going patience this time and gonna let it soak/heat/impact/c clamp rig I have going. Until Friday or Saturday. And I know there isn’t a lot of clearance for the bolt to move before it hits the socket but doesn’t really matter as long as it moves, getting it to move at all is the biggest hurdle.

but yeah I’m basically back at square one, this is cheaper than the entire bushing kit and I already put more than planned in. However I figured try this way first before putting in another $70-100 in the rear suspension when I don’t need most of the bushings none of mine are cracked or loose or janky in anyway yet so can use for a while longer. And then I can return the shock for the full price (even if I cut it I asked) and the rest of it if I need too but honestly will probably keep the knuckle and upper control arm maybe to sell to one of you in need down the road of for myself. Since both are out of production parts.

Either way I’m shopping for the MIVEC swap, so I’m at the junkyard grabbing the various components from the 6G74/5 you need to complete the swap. (I have a guy I met in forums that I need to get measurements to to recreate the BHM distributor plate took a while to find someone, but found ‘em) need to get this stuff done so I can get to the engine bay. Actually might do that while it’s immobilized but the reason haven’t yet is when I did that to get the measurements my plan was to also replace a lot of seals and well tbh wanted to see how far this suspension was gonna go in my pocket first. So yeah…

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

We got it days later!! The method used was the ball joint press. However I ended up fixing my original one as tbh e ball joint press just bent the bolt in the upper control arm I pulled. But was able to push out the inner sleeve which still proved a challenge the first bolt got stuck since the hole drilled wasn’t perfect. so I had to come up with a system to push that out and it maxed out the reach on the clamp. I used a 19mm deep socket to allow the bolt to move then like a 1/2inch bolt abounthe same width to push the bolt I tried to start with. It barely moved but that was enough. Clamped it down and punched out the bolt. Then reversed the bushing sleeve in my system and pushed the other side. That time it was easy shot right out. Now need to reinstall the bushing/inner sleeve. But it has clearance for the new bolt.

the drill had already caused the inner sleeve to break loose from the bushing.

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

So question. The bushing kit is $70 I already ordered it but it won’t be here for a bit. And I looked into the installed of the bushing kit many have done on here. So my inner sleeve obviously came out but the new kit I ordered I really only NEED one and that one is actually made up of 2 silicone pieces and 1 center insert. Okay. So the new kits inner sleeve can certainly move couldn’t it? It’s not attached to the rubber the way the stock bushing is. So hypothetically why is so bad to reinstall the inner sleeve that came out? I know everyone says new bushing which is in the mail. I’m just curious if both the inner sleeves can move and really the rubber at That point on the upper control arm essentially prevents movement of the bolt. The bolt is held right there by what will be my new camber kit on both sides of the bracket with a nut and secured there with a plate used in the camber kit. So really it’s mostly just cushioning the impact of the road from the bolt/inner sleeve. The inner sleeve is flanged on the ends so once it presses through the bushing around is held in by itself and then also held in by the bracket. Which is then bolted onto with a bolt in one side and the head of the 14mm bolt on the other.
I also read ride ability suffers a bit with these replacements. Handling improves. But yeah.

So I’m curious what would be the difference/dilemma with using the old bushing and re pushing in the inner sleeve? If I can stay rubber for as long as possible I kind of want to the rest of the bushings are fine and bolts removed fine. But no one sells this bushing rubber the only option is that $70 kit I already ordered and I’m not too keen on using all of it as like I said id like to stay rubber until I have to. I use it more as a daily right now and a track occasionally. Hence the RS coilovers as that is their intention daily driver/weekend warrior.

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

I appreciate the feedback. The poly kit won’t be here for 7-10 days. There was only 2 left on Amazon. Same as the Autozone or other kit checked the part number sold by the same but in store it’s $100 and gets here only 3 days earlier so decided to save the $30 and wait for the Amazon kit sale brand sold by Poly whatever. I also read in order to do all the bushings you need to order the 2g kit. But the 2G kit does have some issues where you need the 3G kit as well in order to replace all the rear bushings. So I chose to get the 3g kit and I’ll just replace what is included in the 3g kit and keep what isn’t included stock.

So I’ll keep ya updated but we are on a wait for parts essentially.

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

When I asked the question I said press the inner sleeve back in first. So the inner sleeve would still be in the bushing just not attached to the rubber it is broken free. So I think it would still prevent the collapsing. That you speak of, the way you make it sound would be like I didn’t press the inner sleeve back in first. (Which I haven’t, I am currently removing the bushings I know will come in the kit so they are ready to press in when it arrives, but that was how I meant the question assuming I did)

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

The center sleeve insert prevents you from collapsing the mount that is on the outside of the bushing, it makes for a ridged point. Also if you just torqued down the nut and bolt with out the inner sleeve it would be super off as you would just be smashing the bushings untill it would hit a solid spot to get to that torque. New bushings typically come with new inserts so why not use the new ones. Also daily driving a car with full poly insets and coilovers can be rough, you will hear every sound, feel every bump and have a different driving vehicle with these changed.

When you say use the inner sleeve of the new. So are you proposing the replace the old inner sleeve and leave the old rubber that is detached? Because in that case I could just press back in the inner sleeve I freed the bolt from. Which is what I meant in the original question leave the rubber that is still in the control arm and press the inner sleeve I pressed put back in. But as a couple posts ago, the apparent concern with that is the possibility of movement. Due to the softer rubber. As posted by @Bitter

or are you saying just use the upper mount and etc replacements and keep the oem lower control arm and etc bushings as you did?
Since im sure the replacement control arms and etc you got were closer to oem than the poly.

How does yours ride?

 

[The_Mystical_Vegitibishi]

So hypothetically if I installed this. I just pressed it back in so you could see what I meant. However upon doing so some of the rubber detached from one side so I’ll still replace this one with poly since as stated before they do not sell just this one or any kit with this upper control arm bushing rubber. And it’s missing more than what I meant when I asked.
But yeah that’s what I meant if it is pressed back in as shown (well better than shown that side missing a small piece of the rubber wasn’t what I had in mind when I asked the hypothetical) then the bracket and bolt attached? This bushing wouldn’t make my alignment move at all even if it is the way it is I would say because where this is located it has a camber bolt with a place to hold it very much in place, hence the camber kit, this rubber piece just absorbs the road and stops you from over tightening the bolt and nut. Right? So really it can’t move it just absorbs and will now just absorb less. Yes?

took pics of the passenger already installed side. So you get what I’m saying with the valve bolt and how this bushing will just absorb. The bolt placement and plate attached to the bolt is what adjusts and even with this “not ideal” would still hold alignment. Yea?