The center sleeve insert prevents you from collapsing the mount that is on the outside of the bushing, it makes for a ridged point. Also if you just torqued down the nut and bolt with out the inner sleeve it would be super off as you would just be smashing the bushings untill it would hit a solid spot to get to that torque. New bushings typically come with new inserts so why not use the new ones. Also daily driving a car with full poly insets and coilovers can be rough, you will hear every sound, feel every bump and have a different driving vehicle with these changed.So question. The bushing kit is $70 I already ordered it but it won’t be here for a bit. And I looked into the installed of the bushing kit many have done on here. So my inner sleeve obviously came out but the new kit I ordered I really only NEED one and that one is actually made up of 2 silicone pieces and 1 center insert. Okay. So the new kits inner sleeve can certainly move couldn’t it? It’s not attached to the rubber the way the stock bushing is. So hypothetically why is so bad to reinstall the inner sleeve that came out? I know everyone says new bushing which is in the mail. I’m just curious if both the inner sleeves can move and really the rubber at That point on the upper control arm essentially prevents movement of the bolt. The bolt is held right there by what will be my new camber kit on both sides of the bracket with a nut and secured there with a plate used in the camber kit. So really it’s mostly just cushioning the impact of the road from the bolt/inner sleeve. The inner sleeve is flanged on the ends so once it presses through the bushing around is held in by itself and then also held in by the bracket. Which is then bolted onto with a bolt in one side and the head of the 14mm bolt on the other.
I also read ride ability suffers a bit with these replacements. Handling improves. But yeah.
So I’m curious what would be the difference/dilemma with using the old bushing and re pushing in the inner sleeve? If I can stay rubber for as long as possible I kind of want to the rest of the bushings are fine and bolts removed fine. But no one sells this bushing rubber the only option is that $70 kit I already ordered and I’m not too keen on using all of it as like I said id like to stay rubber until I have to. I use it more as a daily right now and a track occasionally. Hence the RS coilovers as that is their intention daily driver/weekend warrior.
When you say use the inner sleeve of the new. So are you proposing the replace the old inner sleeve and leave the old rubber that is detached? Because in that case I could just press back in the inner sleeve I freed the bolt from. Which is what I meant in the original question leave the rubber that is still in the control arm and press the inner sleeve I pressed put back in. But as a couple posts ago, the apparent concern with that is the possibility of movement. Due to the softer rubber. As posted by @BitterThe center sleeve insert prevents you from collapsing the mount that is on the outside of the bushing, it makes for a ridged point. Also if you just torqued down the nut and bolt with out the inner sleeve it would be super off as you would just be smashing the bushings untill it would hit a solid spot to get to that torque. New bushings typically come with new inserts so why not use the new ones. Also daily driving a car with full poly insets and coilovers can be rough, you will hear every sound, feel every bump and have a different driving vehicle with these changed.
I was a bit surprised you had that much trouble with the bushings since there doesn't seem to be that much rust in your pics. I'm gonna replace my rear struts soon, along with lowering springs all around, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that things aren't badly seized. I already have a full set of poly bushings in my closet, just in case they are needed upon inspection. I plan to replace the rear wheel hubs and lower control arms/ball joints, too. Last year I replaced the entire front suspension and both axles, since it was easier and quicker than messing with seized bolts. That was a nightmare project that started out to be just axles, then escalated to new everything.I know that being the trade off, however I do use more as a daily than the track currently. And yeah I know you need to do an alignment Everytime hence why I am trying to do a set up I’m gonna use for a year or so at least. And that set up ideally was staying as much rubber as possible for now. However I was thinking g the exact same thing due to the alignment. So I’m just trying to debate what all I do want to replace since a lot of my bushings are fine and removed fine and it is wayyyy more daily than track and probably will be for this year. So hence the train of thought and why I asked. I’m thinking I’m just gonna do all 3 upper control arm bushings and leave my lower Knuckle bushings. Since I had no problem removing those bolts, popped right out and turned without any issue at all. The bolts also came out very clean minimal rust on the lower ones surprisingly. So I plan to leave those and put anti cease on the bolt to prevent future ceasing when I do need to replace, if/when she goes full or at least a lot more track.