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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, we have a 2005 GTS (hard top) with a manual trans. The car is gonna be built primarily for driver satisfaction and just being a fun car. Not trying to race anyone, not trying to AWD or engine swap, just some cornering when I go into the mountains with my uncle and cruising. Right now I’m focusing on the intake/exhaust system, and I’m fully aware there are plenty of posts about this same topic, BUT HEAR ME OUT. I’ve seen a few people from different platforms/forums claim that the GT and GTS header setups play different for each motor. Is there anything I should be majorly concerned about or is it just people talking? For context I’m looking at hunting down a set of RPWs simply because of the sounds, pair it with either a torxe or nvidia catback, and just a simple AEM intake, nothing too crazy. Thoughts opinions and comments are all welcomed, and if you have any advice for a newbie 3G owner I’m all ears. Thanks in advance!
 

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Driver satisfaction? Fun factor? Lower the car on some quality springs, upgrade the shocks, and invest in an aftermarket rear sway bar. Grab a torch and burn all the factory rubber bushings out of the suspension. Upgrade everything to polyurethane.

If you're 16, sure, throw a bunch of money down the drain to make the car super loud. 3rd gen Eclipses can't even hang with new minivans anymore so have some fun, enjoy your youth, and annoy everyone else.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Driver satisfaction? Fun factor? Lower the car on some quality springs, upgrade the shocks, and invest in an aftermarket rear sway bar. Grab a torch and burn all the factory rubber bushings out of the suspension. Upgrade everything to polyurethane.

If you're 16, sure, throw a bunch of money down the drain to make the car super loud. 3rd gen Eclipses can't even hang with new minivans anymore so have some fun, enjoy your youth, and annoy everyone else.
YES...But who wants a modern mini-van ? OR a modern anything else for that matter. I quit buying new cars a LONG time ago. I am much better off financially since I removed my addiction for new cars. Now the latest lure is to go electric. Just another in a long line of gimmicks to keep the public in debt. ...J.D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would recommend using the long style intake. ...J.D.
Very much appreciate the info, I actually bartered for a no name exhaust and max speed coilovers, installed the exhaust, not the coilovers. I’m a little concerned with the quality and ive read online they don’t handle that well. Especially since I’ve started getting aggressive on the mountain roads I’ve made it my goal to simply gut as much weight as possible, and invest entirely into handling. Teins are probably gonna be my go to, I’ll check on that intake you recommended, and then if you have any header recommendations I’d be completely open. I’m also looking for flat door cards if you know of any brands or group buys. Reason being if I stuck a racing seat in that fits me it wouldn’t clear, so I also won’t be running a center console. My apologies for the essay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Driver satisfaction? Fun factor? Lower the car on some quality springs, upgrade the shocks, and invest in an aftermarket rear sway bar. Grab a torch and burn all the factory rubber bushings out of the suspension. Upgrade everything to polyurethane.

If you're 16, sure, throw a bunch of money down the drain to make the car super loud. 3rd gen Eclipses can't even hang with new minivans anymore so have some fun, enjoy your youth, and annoy everyone else.
Sadly I work a big boy job and have big boy bills so I can’t just piss money into my car, but you bet your ass I would if I could
 

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2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT 5spd
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Very much appreciate the info, I actually bartered for a no name exhaust and max speed coilovers, installed the exhaust, not the coilovers. I’m a little concerned with the quality and ive read online they don’t handle that well. Especially since I’ve started getting aggressive on the mountain roads I’ve made it my goal to simply gut as much weight as possible, and invest entirely into handling. Teins are probably gonna be my go to, I’ll check on that intake you recommended, and then if you have any header recommendations I’d be completely open. I’m also looking for flat door cards if you know of any brands or group buys. Reason being if I stuck a racing seat in that fits me it wouldn’t clear, so I also won’t be running a center console. My apologies for the essay.
I would not recommend installing max speed coilovers they are one of the worst coilovers and tend to blow out very quick with little to no dampening. Don’t get me wrong I like Teins but if you want big boy coilovers that will actually have some decent handling get some KWs but just remember they come with a big boy price. If that price dosent suite you get some BC Racing or Ksport coilovers they are easier to get rebuilt or sent out for a revalve and spring rate change.

You will have to make door cards if that’s something you want no one makes door cards for our cars or at least that I’ve seen. I have 2 racing seats in my car one NRG FIA regulated seat pretty sturdy and one POS NRG cheap seat for the passenger side. I do not have any sliders cause sliders cause flex to the seat which I do not want they both fit with out door cards and I have full interior still. I track my car pretty hard and pretty much all I do with it. You can check it out in the member rides if you want. Just keep in mind you are dumping tons of money into a car that is 20+ years old. Some people don’t want to cause of the age but for me IDGAF and have spent way more money than my car is worth.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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I am using the stock springs with Koni shocks [the yellow adjustable ones]. Ride is a bit stiff, even with the stock springs. I currently have them set 1/2 turn toward stiff, and that seems plenty stiff for street use [4 turns is max]. I am also using a stiffer rear roll bar [ST], but I do not feel the need for anything but the stock front bar.
I regularly drive this up to my mountain cabin and back, a twisty 84 mile round trip. The car is way faster through the turns than is practical for safe street use. The rear end stays behind me and I have achieved a pretty good balance front to rear by adjusting the shock rebound. I could set up the car for more aggressive handling, but you have to consider it is a daily driver and my wife drives it occasionally too. ...J.D.
Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would not recommend installing max speed coilovers they are one of the worst coilovers and tend to blow out very quick with little to no dampening. Don’t get me wrong I like Teins but if you want big boy coilovers that will actually have some decent handling get some KWs but just remember they come with a big boy price. If that price dosent suite you get some BC Racing or Ksport coilovers they are easier to get rebuilt or sent out for a revalve and spring rate change.

You will have to make door cards if that’s something you want no one makes door cards for our cars or at least that I’ve seen. I have 2 racing seats in my car one NRG FIA regulated seat pretty sturdy and one POS NRG cheap seat for the passenger side. I do not have any sliders cause sliders cause flex to the seat which I do not want they both fit with out door cards and I have full interior still. I track my car pretty hard and pretty much all I do with it. You can check it out in the member rides if you want. Just keep in mind you are dumping tons of money into a car that is 20+ years old. Some people don’t want to cause of the age but for me IDGAF and have spent way more money than my car is worth.
I appreciate all the Info! Yea, this is my first car and I decided while I’m young I’m gonna do what I want, obviously keeping safety in mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am using the stock springs with Koni shocks [the yellow adjustable ones]. Ride is a bit stiff, even with the stock springs. I currently have them set 1/2 turn toward stiff, and that seems plenty stiff for street use [4 turns is max]. I am also using a stiffer rear roll bar [ST], but I do not feel the need for anything but the stock front bar.
I regularly drive this up to my mountain cabin and back, a twisty 84 mile round trip. The car is way faster through the turns than is practical for safe street use. The rear end stays behind me and I have achieved a pretty good balance front to rear by adjusting the shock rebound. I could set up the car for more aggressive handling, but you have to consider it is a daily driver and my wife drives it occasionally too. ...J.D.
View attachment 45434
I appreciate the post Spyder! Could you like me the rear roll bar? Also, I found an NRG Titanium harness bar since I do want to run a harness at some point, but they’re asking $250, would you know of anywhere else I could get one or is that really my only choice?
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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The rear sway bar is Suspension Technology. You would have to look around the internet to find one. I bought mine through a company my son was working for at the time. Cannot help you with harnesses and such seeing as I do not use my car in compitition. At one time I was thinking about using it in SCCA Solo II but decided against it. ...J.D.
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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I appreciate the post Spyder! Could you like me the rear roll bar? Also, I found an NRG Titanium harness bar since I do want to run a harness at some point, but they’re asking $250, would you know of anywhere else I could get one or is that really my only choice?
ST Suspension 51194 Rear Anti-Sway Bar
Do a google search for comparison shopping...also get a set of MOOG rear end links (K7432).
BTW, the sway bar is adjustable , so using the inside mounting holes will give a stiffer feel and much less "roll"
It comes with poly bushings, too!!!

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The rear sway bar is Suspension Technology. You would have to look around the internet to find one. I bought mine through a company my son was working for at the time. Cannot help you with harnesses and such seeing as I do not use my car in compitition. At one time I was thinking about using it in SCCA Solo II but decided against it. ...J.D.
Very much appreciate the info as always!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ST Suspension 51194 Rear Anti-Sway Bar
Do a google search for comparison shopping...also get a set of MOOG rear end links (K7432).
BTW, the sway bar is adjustable , so using the inside mounting holes will give a stiffer feel and much less "roll"
It comes with poly bushings, too!!!

Fuckin came through with the link! Appreciate you man
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The rear sway bar is Suspension Technology. You would have to look around the internet to find one. I bought mine through a company my son was working for at the time. Cannot help you with harnesses and such seeing as I do not use my car in compitition. At one time I was thinking about using it in SCCA Solo II but decided against it. ...J.D.
Would this happen to be the one you have? ST Suspension 51194 Rear Anti-Sway Bar for Mitsubishi Eclipse https://a.co/d/38LyngC
 

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Fuckin came through with the link! Appreciate you man
You should verify with seller that Moog is stamped on the parts bc none of the stock photos for that listing show Moog. Remember, you want to "upgrade" to Moog, not get unbranded advertised as Moog, such as this listing.
Also, 51194 is the correct part number for the ST Suspension rear sway bar, and you will find it cheaper than $239 if you spend time searching. There is a slightly used one on eBay now for $189 and other sellers new for $219
Look for online stores with discount codes and free shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You should verify with seller that Moog is stamped on the parts bc none of the stock photos for that listing show Moog. Remember, you want to "upgrade" to Moog, not get unbranded advertised as Moog, such as this listing.
Also, 51194 is the correct part number for the ST Suspension rear sway bar, and you will find it cheaper than $239 if you spend time searching. There is a slightly used one on eBay now for $189 and other sellers new for $219
Look for online stores with discount codes and free shipping.
Appreciate the info!
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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Looks the same. A little more expensive. This is a must if your are going to get the 3g to handle correctly. I passed on the lowering springs myself. Personal choice of course. I felt the stock springs were stiff enough when you add good shocks. If I were doing some SERIOUS racing I would probabily spring for some custom valving [expensive though]. ...J.D.
 
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