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3GETuner
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my 3G GT not even a year ago and the old owner had the car lowered. Since then i've been wasting my money fixing a ton of mechanical issues with the car. First of all I broke an axle and they tried telling me it was the tranny that went out on me, so i told the dealership to replace the tranny under the 90day used warranty thats when they looked it over again and found out it was my axle (Drivers Side), It ran $417 which seemed ridiculously high, My question is was i ripped off for the replacement and how hard is it to replace an axle, This time passengers side i dont feel like spending more then i have to or have for that matter.

I was looking at replacements that only ran a little more than $100 but im worried about the difficulty on DYI installation of it.

Please Help
Thanks
3G.E.Tuner
 

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If the dealer misdiagnosed the repair they should be eating the cost of the axle. Its not your problem they blew 10+ man hours and the cost of a new transmission trying to diagnose a problem that also should be under warrenty
 

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no air tools lol just sockets and wrenches :facepalm: can it still be done?
it'll be a fight getting the axle nut, tierod nut, and ball joint nut loose.

and you'll need a torque wrench.
 

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it'll be a fight getting the axle nut, tierod nut, and ball joint nut loose.

and you'll need a torque wrench.
What the hell do you need to take the tierod nut or ball joint off for? The only thing necessary to replace an axle on the 3G is the 32mm socket for the axle nut and the 24mm bolts for the knuckle to strut. Remove those 3 things and you can pop the axle out.

Caveat: If it's a V6 and it's the passenger side, there will be 2 14mm bolts holding in the 1/2 shaft to the block.
 

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What the hell do you need to take the tierod nut or ball joint off for? The only thing necessary to replace an axle on the 3G is the 32mm socket for the axle nut and the 24mm bolts for the knuckle to strut. Remove those 3 things and you can pop the axle out.

Caveat: If it's a V6 and it's the passenger side, there will be 2 14mm bolts holding in the 1/2 shaft to the block.
for when he cant get the axle to break loose from the hub splines :lol:

i honestly dont know what i was thinking. though if you pop the tierod and/or ball joint loose you dont need to get an alignment, where as if you pop the strut mount from the knuckle then you'll probably go need to get the camber set.
 

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Actually there is NO adjustment on the strut bolts so you will not need to get the camber reset.
 

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Actually there is NO adjustment on the strut bolts so you will not need to get the camber reset.
really? when i helped phil do his front struts he had camber bolts upfront that we had to realign :dunno: i thought they were all like that.
 

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Those camber bolts are aftermarket, most likely Eibach's.

The only Mitsu that comes with adjustable front bolts for the struts from the factory is the EVO.
 
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