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Yeah I'd keep the bracket if you can. If it's not on there it might stress the rest of your exhaust more. Sounds like you already have enough trouble.

Weird it won't start now. Wasn't it running at least poorly before you fixed all of the electrical things? Did you reconnect all of the distributor wires? What about sensors and vacuum lines? Did you unplug stuff from your ECU when you thought it was that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Yes, but me and my buddy that is a mechanic plugged everything back up. We had it running before the starter went bad. We checked for spark this afternoon, no spark. We will connect his scanner tomorrow and check for RPM reading. He says if the scanner doesn't read RPMs then it's the crank sensor. Do you know of a way to check the crank sensor via voltmeter? Ohmmeter? The part is not very expensive but, it's a pain in the ass to take this engine apart again to install. If it was easier, I would just throw parts at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Found the problem! It was a blown fuse. Must have happened when I disconnected the battery when I did the starter. I don't like the wing nut connector on the positive battery terminal on these cars. I usually disconnect the negitive side and not the positive. I think my buddy is doing the complete exhaust system this week and the injectors. Will keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok, so just giving anyone following this thread an update. We got the main catalytic converter off to discover it had been gutted complete. The two pre-cats are beyond clogged, one of which was fused together internally. One thing I did notice was a decent amount of oil inside of it. This car has not smoked at all since I have had it (does not include the smoke when it backfired due to a bad distributor cap) but, the PCV value was electrical taped together thus was bad. My theory is the PCV value went bad causing the engine to suck up oil in the intake plenum (there is a good amount of oil in the plenum) thus, causing the converters to become clogged. What are you guys thoughts on this?

I did have one of the injector connectors that was bad and we did change out all of them with new factory injectors. I should have it back together Tuesday at the latest.
 

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Must have been a lot of oil in the intake to make it through the engine unburnt. I say fix the pcv valve, put it back together and run it. After a bit, check to see if your oil in the intake problem is fixed. As long as you're not sucking up a bunch of oil and your injectors are running fine, your new cats should be in good shape.

Also, you're probably still going to throw a code if you don't replace that main cat. That is unless they rigged up something to fool the ECU when they gutted it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yes, I am replacing the whole exhaust system minus the resonator section and muffler (this is magna flow), and injectors, injector connectors and I replaced the pcv valve when I did the plugs and wires. This engine is almost completely new under the hood with the exception of block and heads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Verdict is in....I have several cylinders with low compression. Engine starts and runs, then it warms up dies. Will stay running if you keep your foot on the gas. My buddy says could be due to carbon in the engine (possibly since this engine was never maintained outside oil changes). I am going to move forward with a new engine but, need one for a GTS. I don't want to go with a 6G74 swap. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a remanu. engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just to share this, these are my pressure readings. Cylinder 5 was consistently misfiring. Cyl. 1 = 150, Cyl. 2 = 190, Cyl. 3 = 155, Cyl. 4 = 170, Cyl. 5 = 145, Cyl. 6 = 185. Tearstone says min. is 149 psi.
 

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Usually there is a maximum difference across all of the cylinders too. If I had to guess, you're well outside of it. Sucks, man. Like I said in the other thread, I'd look for a quality salvaged engine. Rebuild is going to be expensive, especially considering how rusty your car is. (I think it's your car that I'm remembering.)

I wonder what is causing the different pressures. I wonder if the engine is just worn out or if it snapped a timing belt bending a bunch of valves up and some more than others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
The pre cat on the rear was really clogged. My theory is the excessive backpressure damaged the head on the rear bank thus, resulting in the low pressures but the front pressures are not too much better. All because some asshole didn't replace a PCV valve and drove with the CEL. After having the car on the lift, the undercarriage is alittle Rusty but, I feel confident I could clean and undercoat it. It's just a pain in the ass. I was hoping to have this car back on the road this week.
 

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Yeah that's frustrating. Also look at crashed or totaled examples of GTSs. Might be able to get something you can yank the engine out of. These cars are so cheap these days, I bet you you could get a totaled example with a running engine for much less than a rebuilt long block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
After talking to my buddies dad who is a master mechanic, he checked could compression again and got some pressures that were all over the place. He thinks it might be massive carbon on the rear bank valves. This might be the case considering the massive amounts of carbon that was in the precats. This week he said he would try to use some carbon cleaner and see if this brings the pressures above threshold considering the front bank pressures where pretty good considering the abuse and mileage on the car.
 

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Could be. If the cleaner doesn't work, might have to remove the head and clean them manually. Depends on how bad they are and if they're damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Well its official. The top engine Seafoam clean was ineffective. Looks like I am buying a motor. I will move forward with a used engine. There is a junkyard near me with a wreaked GTS with 90k on the car.

I am still having my charging issue though, but it might be due to the low compression. If you keep giving it gas, holding RPM's around 2k then it is ok but compression is definately low on the rear bank with cylinder 5 being below threshold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
So after much searching, I can't find a used GTS engine with low miles. I searched for a remanufactured GTS and I can't find one of those either (apparently, remanufacturing companies are not aware of the GTS spec engines). I bought a used GTS engine for 400 dollars and am having it rebuilt. Got a very reputable machine shop locally that is doing the rebuild.
 

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Found the problem! It was a blown fuse. Must have happened when I disconnected the battery when I did the starter. I don't like the wing nut connector on the positive battery terminal on these cars. I usually disconnect the negitive side and not the positive. I think my buddy is doing the complete exhaust system this week and the injectors. Will keep you posted.
By chance what fuse was it
Lol
 
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