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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd really appreciate some help my cars a 04 gs 2.4l manual swapped haven't had any issues with the swap but just recently on the way home from work it started acting up so I limped it home and it died right as I pulled in acted like it was out of fuel and I was at 1/8th of a tank so I put a gallon in and hacked the front end up to push all the fuel to the back and it ran good then died no fuel agian I changed the fuel pump relay and it ran better then before till out of no where it died and now it keeps blowing the ecu fuse in the engine bay iv unhooked every sensor and it still keeps popping when I turn the key to on not cranking iv pulled all the wiring from the fuse box to the fuel pump including removing the dash and going through all that wiring and I don't see anything burnt up please any help would be great I'm at a loss now I even pulled the ecu apart and I don't see anything shorted or that got hot
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Iv replaced the pump about 8 months ago when I did a trans swap with a genuine walborro 255 iv still got some wiring in the engine bay to undo and check but I unplugged everything and it still popped when I turned the key on
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Visually inspecting wiring is not the only thing you need to do, you need to grab a DVOM and check for short to ground and continuity from what wires are blowing the fuse. Diagnosing wiring takes a lot of time and patience and learning.
You should be able to visually inspect because it's a short to ground a wire would be burnt up right?
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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You already checked the fuel pump. Move on. You need a meter and know how to use it for these kind of problems. If you are in over your head, get some professional help. Almost impossible for us to diagnose an electrical short over the internet. ...J.D.
 

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You should be able to visually inspect because it's a short to ground a wire would be burnt up right?
No if something is internally shorted example in the wire loom that you actually can’t see nor do a visual inspection of you will never know, it could be shorted in a million places as the reason you need to know basic electrical to diagnose it. Check out some YouTube videos on basic electrical on how to do continuity test, voltage drop test and short to ground tests.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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I totally agree with what was said above. That being said, it is my experience that problems like this are seldom in the wiring itself unless someone has been hacking about in there. What I usually find is a component shorted out internally. A sensor, a relay, etc. Last year I found the Manifold Absolute Air sensor on mine fried. I think engine heat finally got to it after 22 years. Tested it with a meter because I had a hunch and I was right. Cheap fix. ...J.D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Alright I went through everything and hooked all the plugs up in the car under dash and the engine bay and it didn't blow the fuse but won't start either it'll crank, each time I scan the ecu I'll get code for engine temp sensor high input voltage but none of the auto trans codes since it's manual swapped it should always throw those codes, after several scans it finally shows the codes it should the 10 or so for the auto trans and once I try and clear it and rescan it showes the temp sensor high voltage code kinda think the ecu is dead
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. cold air intake, ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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This is one of those "you built it, you fix it" situations. With wiring like that, you are on your own. ...J.D.
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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Alright I went through everything and hooked all the plugs up in the car under dash and the engine bay and it didn't blow the fuse but won't start either it'll crank, each time I scan the ecu I'll get code for engine temp sensor high input voltage but none of the auto trans codes since it's manual swapped it should always throw those codes, after several scans it finally shows the codes it should the 10 or so for the auto trans and once I try and clear it and rescan it showes the temp sensor high voltage code kinda think the ecu is dead
Did you try replacing the temp sensor?
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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Alright I went through everything and hooked all the plugs up in the car under dash and the engine bay and it didn't blow the fuse but won't start either <snip>
You need to find the circuit that's causing the short and popping your fuse. Disconnect all those connectors again until the fuse doesn't blow when you try to start the car. Then reconnect one of those things and try to start. Keep reconnecting one item and trying to start, until the fuse starts to blow again. That circuit is the one with a problem. Since you're getting a bad input from your coolant temp sensor, I'd start with that one.
 
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