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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey since ive got my car i noticed the oil light would come on after awhile and like when i have to stop quick and it would also tap like crazy. It didnt take long for me to realize that it burns oil. So i decided to give it an oil change with full synthetic to see if it wouldnt burn that but it still does. Anything i can do to stop it from burning the oil? And also now im noticing at an idle my engine idles normally but sounds like it starts to struggle and almost dies but doesnt? any help plz? =)
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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Oil light comes on? How is your oil level? If it is ok then your oil sensor may be going out. Hopefully its not the oil pump itself. Have you checked around the valve covers to make sure its not just leaking oil (instead of burning it)? How many miles does this car/engine have on it? 4cyl or V6?
 

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(b)org banugee
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On the 4 banger, the oil sending unit is a common problem. Always treat the oil light like the real thing, but then check the actual level on the dipstick. If you are getting spurious idiot lights for oil, replace the sending unit.

I think lifter lap is common on both engines, but is more frequently reported on the V6.

As for the idle issue -- there are countless causes. It would be better for you to provide more information before people start shooting from the hip. Even something as simple as disconnecting the battery can cause this.

For future reference: Any time you want help with a problem on your car, provide year, trim, mods, and any recent work done. You can take care of the first two by just editing your user information so that it appears below your avatar.
 

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In addition to the above comments, if the engine is burning oil you can usually see bluish smoke come out the exhaust. The absence of bluish smoke doesn't mean it's not burning oil, but it would probably be a very small amount. Burning oil could come from a number of places (valve seals, piston rings, head gasket, etc.).

Best case it's just a bad sending unit...next would be an oil leak...then burning oil. Start by checking the dipstick regularly to see if the level is actually going down...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
its a 2000 rs almost at 60k miles. and the exhaust does smoke at times even after its warmed up and everything. and besides the oil light going down i know its losing the oil because the engine will start tapping but adding oil makes that go away.
Also just changed the oil about 500 miles ago and gave it a tune up about 750 miles ago if its even that long ago. I did have a cai put in awhile ago i know that wouldnt do anything with the oil but maybe with the idle idk? its installed right its not making any lights go off or anythign
 

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IMHO using synthetic oil is a waste if your burning oil. First because of
cost and second it tends to get in places regular dino oil can't, which will
add to the burning. You may try going to a dino oil with a higher viscosity
(maybe like 20/50?) and see if that help. It may help with the ticking also.
I'm using synthetic in my GT, but I've got over 270K on my 88 Chevy Trk
and have always run 20/50 Castrol in it. Then again opinons vary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ya i might try that but im taking it to the dealer tommorow and gonna rip them a new asshole since all this shits been going wrong since i got the car and i do have a full coverage warranty
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i did and the sons of bitches said that it wasnt covered under the warranty and that theres nothing they could do. so now my cars almost dieing at idle they better fix both fucking problems now. they tried to tellme switching to misubishi oil filters would fix the tapping. but i read the thread thats stickied in this forum and im gonna call that if they dont fix it
 

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yea i def. agree to take it to the dealership and get the shit fixed for free.....and everything they are saying is true, but i dont agree with changing the viscosity on your oil, use the recommened 5w30, cus either way your gonna burn the oil, although it may get rid of your tap for a second or two(not worth it) and its not recomended to go back to regular now that youve run fuly synthetic in it, and if it is low on oil, then i wouldnt say its a sending unit(even though they do tend to go up in these cars easily ......done it in mine at 86k) i would say it is prob a small leak in the head gasket into one of your cylinders....but thats wat your warranty is 4, just sit back and relax:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ya thats what i thought last time too but they fucking do anything to not fix it. and they can fix my other problem too. god if they fucking say no i swear there gonna be dead =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
of course i bring it in and they call me back today and again say i need to use mitsubishi oil filters. these fucking dealers try to rip u off for every damn penny u have jesus christ
 

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(b)org banugee
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So put the mitsu filter on there and then you can shut them up about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i did like 4 days after they told me too. and it still tapped. but they said u need to change it like several times with the filter and i have like 4 times and still here we are. but w/e
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
also i just read about my idling that it could be something with my intake that messes with it. And it said unplugging my battery and then plugging it back in and starting the car and letting it sit for 20 mins or so would fix the idle? that sound right?
 

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its not recomended to go back to regular now that youve run fuly synthetic in it
BS... I've heard a lot of people say you can't go back, but I've never seen anything conclusive saying it's bad.

also i just read about my idling that it could be something with my intake that messes with it. And it said unplugging my battery and then plugging it back in and starting the car and letting it sit for 20 mins or so would fix the idle? that sound right?
Yes, if you don't let the car idle for at least 20 mins, the ECU won't reset correctly and you'll stall out. The ECU needs the time to relearn idle.
 

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its not recomended to go back to regular now that youve run fuly synthetic in it
BS... I've heard a lot of people say you can't go back, but I've never seen anything conclusive saying it's bad.
I know this isn't conclusive, but I figured I'd pass on the information that was passed on to me. When I went to UTI back in the mid 90's (when synthetic oils were still fairly new to the scene) we were taught not to go back to "regular" oil after using synthetic oil. The best explanation I was given came from my instructor for truck drivetrains. Supposedly, when using synthetic oil in manual OTR truck tansmissions (the smaller Saginaw 5-speeds as well as up to the Fuller T/C 15-speed units), "stringers" would form...that's what they called them at least. The best I can describe it, the two different oils would cause a chemical reaction creating "semi-solid strings" which could seize between the moving parts...almost like the oil would congeal. I personally never saw this happen, but I've never looked inside an engine, transmission, or differential that had gone from synthetic to regular oil. So, for what it's worth, that's the explanation they were giving out at UTI back in the day...technology has come pretty far since then though. You could always see if Mythbusters could sort it out for you...:ugh2:
 

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Hmm... never heard that. Although after using synthetic I'd never go back to regular oil just because of the better performance of synthetic... wouldn't the reaction work both ways? If combining synthetic and dino oil is bad, wouldn't that chemical reaction happen if switching either way seeing as you're not going to get *all* the oil out in a change?
 
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