Im looking foward to the build seeing as I want to do this myself but wasnt sure on everything, Keep Us Updated
EVO DOHC SWAP THREAD< how to (malachi)
EVO DOHC SWAP THREAD< how to (malachi) ( update -Day One)
UPDATE #3 7-11-08 POST #102
well the time has come, starting sunday night to (and hopfully at the most), two weeks from now, ill be doing the EVO head swap. there will be ton-o pics and hopfully some video, if i can remember.
i will update each step of the way.
also can Flash and some of the other guys who have done this, keep an eye out incase i have some quick question.
also are there any special tools i will need, going buy some torque wrenches today.
its funally getting done.
UPDATE #1 6-24-08 POST #6
UPDATE #2 6-25-08 POST #14
UPDATE #3 7-11-08 POST #102
well the time has come, starting sunday night to (and hopfully at the most), two weeks from now, ill be doing the EVO head swap. there will be ton-o pics and hopfully some video, if i can remember.
i will update each step of the way.
also can Flash and some of the other guys who have done this, keep an eye out incase i have some quick question.
also are there any special tools i will need, going buy some torque wrenches today.
its funally getting done.
UPDATE #1 6-24-08 POST #6
UPDATE #2 6-25-08 POST #14
1 - 20 of 216 Posts
can some one help me with the torque secquence for the head thanks!
thank you.10 6 1 3 7
9 5 2 4 8
day one, we have most of the littlw stuff out the way, header, valve cover, wiring, CAI, battery.
tonight will be the timing belt then it should be good to take the head off.
is there a certain way i should take the head off?
BTW, whats the best way to post a lot of pics? do you have to do it 1 by 1?
tonight will be the timing belt then it should be good to take the head off.
is there a certain way i should take the head off?
BTW, whats the best way to post a lot of pics? do you have to do it 1 by 1?
can someone explain this me please?
78 ± 2 (58 ± 1 ft-lb) → back off→ 20 ± 2 (15 ± 1 ft-lb) → 90° + 90°
78 ± 2 (58 ± 1 ft-lb) → back off→ 20 ± 2 (15 ± 1 ft-lb) → 90° + 90°
That sounds like the torque specs for reattaching something. From what it looks like, you put it in with 58+-1lb move on to a different bolt and do the same and continue until you get all of the bolts done. Then go back and then make sure they are torqued to 15+-1lb. I think the 90 to 90 degrees mean tighten in quarter turns...but this is a complete guess for me...
When I removed the head on my 1st gen, I had to remove the bolts in a v pattern... But I dont know if it applies in this case... I think you can keep the intake manifold on, but I know you have to take the headers off.
When I removed the head on my 1st gen, I had to remove the bolts in a v pattern... But I dont know if it applies in this case... I think you can keep the intake manifold on, but I know you have to take the headers off.
thanks man,
i called mitsu, and asked about the 4g64, and they said torque to 80 then 0 then 80 again. i dont know.
i called mitsu, and asked about the 4g64, and they said torque to 80 then 0 then 80 again. i dont know.
Those are the head bolt torque specs. Torque all bolts to 58ft-lbs in the correct sequence. Loosen them all in the correct sequence. Then torque them all down to 15 ft-lbs and then an additional 90 degrees, again, in the correct sequence. Then go back and torque each bolt an additional 90 degrees.can someone explain this me please?
78 ± 2 (58 ± 1 ft-lb) → back off→ 20 ± 2 (15 ± 1 ft-lb) → 90° + 90°
That only applies if you are using stock head bolts. If you are using head studs, you don't have to go through that process.
That process only works THE FIRST TIME YOU USE NEW HEAD BOLTS. The stock head bolts are Torque To Yield (TTY). That means that you must stretch the bolt and is the reason for the torque sequence requiring you to tighten and loosen the bolt and then use a degree of turn instead of a torque value for the final tightening.
Head studs are cheap and great insurance. You should definitely be using head studs. The process for head studs is quite different. You want to torque head studs starting at 15 ft/lbs and working your way up in 10 ft/lb increments until you hit 75 ft/lbs if you are using Moly lube. If you are using motor oil as a lubricant, you want to torque them to about 85 ft/lbs.
Head studs are cheap and great insurance. You should definitely be using head studs. The process for head studs is quite different. You want to torque head studs starting at 15 ft/lbs and working your way up in 10 ft/lb increments until you hit 75 ft/lbs if you are using Moly lube. If you are using motor oil as a lubricant, you want to torque them to about 85 ft/lbs.
yah just get the arp head studs and save your self the head ache and just some extra insurance all at one time
good luck with the swap looks like you are off to a good start
good luck with the swap looks like you are off to a good start
hey guys, well after last night im in some trouble.
1. what to do with the Radiator hoses? where do i go with the pipe on the water pump? its much different then the 4g64.
2. i dont see many of the sensors i took off on the new intake manifold. do i have to use some of the 4g64 censors?
3. how do i route the timming belt, same as the 64?
1. what to do with the Radiator hoses? where do i go with the pipe on the water pump? its much different then the 4g64.
2. i dont see many of the sensors i took off on the new intake manifold. do i have to use some of the 4g64 censors?
3. how do i route the timming belt, same as the 64?
also, how do you line up the gears (timing and crank). and what/how can i clean thouse pistons:barf
o and, how do you take the cam gear bolt off?
o and, how do you take the cam gear bolt off?
You need the water pipe and thermostat housing from an EVO.
Cam gear bolt is a 17mm. Impact gun works best to take that off. If you can't, remove the valve cover and you can fit a 1 1/16" wrench on the cam and then use a breaker bar w/ a 17mm to get the bolt out. The wrench is to keep the cam in place and not spin.
There are notches on the valve cover for where the cams should align to.
Cam gear bolt is a 17mm. Impact gun works best to take that off. If you can't, remove the valve cover and you can fit a 1 1/16" wrench on the cam and then use a breaker bar w/ a 17mm to get the bolt out. The wrench is to keep the cam in place and not spin.
There are notches on the valve cover for where the cams should align to.
i have the thermostat houseing already, i didnt know i needed the pipe!You need the water pipe and thermostat housing from an EVO.
Cam gear bolt is a 17mm. Impact gun works best to take that off. If you can't, remove the valve cover and you can fit a 1 1/16" wrench on the cam and then use a breaker bar w/ a 17mm to get the bolt out. The wrench is to keep the cam in place and not spin.
There are notches on the valve cover for where the cams should align to.
ok, i didnt know there was a place to put a wrench on the cam shaft.
ok, but what about the crank, how do i know its posistion?
thanks alot for the help man.
damn thats a nice red 3g in those pics who's car is that
o that car, thats just some ******* car. he loves to SUCK MASSIVE COCK.::ghey3: Hes also pedophile. :loser:damn thats a nice red 3g in those pics who's car is that
1 - 20 of 216 Posts
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