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^^ Could not have said it better. Now WarmandShitty take your useless information somewhere else. Its very clear you dont know what your doing since you once again blew another engine. :lolspit:
 

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Turbo/Haltech V6
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1,713 Posts
See, all you had to do is give us a specific part number, none of the rest of that was necessary.

207-5402 - 2.6 L (engine out of the Starion right?) main studs. Nope, neither Greg nor I have used those before. I don't think anybody else has either. And I would definitely not recommend anybody else trying either. Doesn't sound right to me because the 3SI guys concluded long ago that ARP made no main studs that would fit the application. I'm sure most of them have much more experience than your shop at building 6G72's unless 3SX or Ray Pampena built your engine

I build my engines better than any damn shop will. Not unless I paid them several THOUSAND dollars just for assembly to take the same care I do with my own engines. Don't try to speak down to me when you have never even tried it yourself. That's fucking absurd.

Engine work = internal work. Everything else is a bolt-on, I'm sorry.

I'm not assuming shit about you. In fact, I don't give a fuck, and neither does anybody else. Your signature is quite ironic. But I can play that game. I'm not the one who had cam gears slip on my engine because they were not torqued properly (Fidanza, of course, know NOTHING about engineering) destroying a set of custom valves in some very nice cylinder heads.
Well, obviously I have been using those main studs, and I haven't had any problems so far. :dunno: Its funny how you get all butt hurt when I'm just trying to help you by telling you to take your block to a professional. Obviously, you didn't build your engine better than many other shops that have built these engines before. I'm not talking down to you I'm just being realistic. I'm sorry your built didn't work out right. Don't get it with me. I didn't do it. :lol: Also, just so you know, When you get to the point that you are going to built your heads, make sure you weld the fidanza cam gears in place after you are done tuning so that they don't slip. That was the tip I got from Matt from 3sx. No big deal, I'll get those new intake valves later. Anyway, I see you are getting more upset so I'm going to leave you alone because I don't want to sound weak talking to you. Good luck.
 

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I can't believe i read this entire thread in hopes to gain some knowledge. I personally think dudes porting job looks great...exhaust gas regurgitation is a new topic ill be studying.... And the one point brought up about knife sharpening any part in the head but especially in the combustion chamber will cause hot spots and eventually become shrapnel; i took as a side note not a criticism. IMO the intake side is almost too polished as some turbulence can keep fuel vapor in a vaporized state whereas smooth surfaces could lead to condensing fuel which is less volatile.(unproven but respected theory among auto enthusist everywhere)In some cases on some engines, the engineers at edelbrock claim simple gasket matching and ramping up to 1" into the intake passage can add 50-150hp however having too large of a port will reduce the Venturi attribute needed to cause velocity thus reducing the"cramming" of air into the cylinder. And we all know an engine is an air pump... Carbarators are size in cubic feet per minutes and engines by cubic inches per ??? Displaced volume per?
Something ... I'm not going to try and look that up now because at very least even i get the point...... There's no Justice in over feeding a 2.0 with a 750 double pumper cause it'll only suck #_&# cfm ... When the exploding gasses are done depressing your piston a combination of centrifugal force , expanded volume of warm air pressurised , the firing of the next cylinder, and that millisecond before the exhaust valve has begun to open creates a mild re-pressurization against the valve that bumb rushes the exhaust port and evacuates the cylinder for the next bresth of fresh air.....too much back pressure and residual exhast gasses will both work against your power gains with resistance and limit your next intake breath........too little and the same....Turbines use a back pressure to provide a forward strength by constricting the air flow at the turbine air will slightly back up, pressurize , then overcome the resistance of the 2.5" turbine causing it to spin or" move out of the way " allowing the escaping gasses slip into a wide open 3 in exhaust . With a v6 or any v engine the cross over pipe placed closet to the engine will provide better low end torque by creating even cylinder back pressure sooner which also is created by the natural restriction of a turbo to some extent. I wonder if your first head being slightly over ported could be why your turbo lagged further into the power band.... Had to create more pressure before becoming effective compressor... In your case though if one head went in with obviously un-even air tunnels, and then you went conservative on the other in theory alone it seems obvious it would run kinda weird.... But that's just theory here.... Ever seen a leaf blower? That conical aiming device actually increases the windspeed by constricting to the most beneficial point without restricting it beyond a point.

I think the best thing is to simply smooth sharp edges, abrupt stops , kinks , casting seams that cause large turbulence or otherwise undesired flow without just ripping it wide open...a sorry of funnel effect could be desired like a ram Air intake or an old good scoop concept... Then on exhaust ports they should gasket match however feel free to polish them down as doing so will prevent carbon build up on the smooth surfaces, lower turbulence and allow more velocity right up to your turbo. Then bam ! Constricted yet again.... Another well made point was valve angle of the grind.....3 angle minimum to create a compression worthy seal , your saying 5 angles . Honestly i don't have a clue so I'm going to start looking for info on that as well..... Sorry for my in proof read, non punctuated summary of your information but i started getting frustrated at all the peacocking going on when all i wanted to know was , can i successfully do this myself, what should i be aware of? How much ratio do i really stand to lose with smoothing the combustion chamber... Then maximizing potential for cfm is going to require a slightly different cam duration in order to cause the more effective pressurization and evacuation of gasses.... Are different cams and cogs available for the dohc 6g72. I also noticed they have 1mm oversized exhaust valves available. That must be a worthwhile investment right?
 

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Stage 1 SDS @11+ psi
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Wow! What a blast from the past. I think you probably haven't seen other threads for Warm... He was always difficult and got banned several time from being a troll. Greg's point was that port work is very specific and you just can't attack a head with a Dremel.
 
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