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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
SETUP:
RIPP SDS Stage 2 w/ large shaft pulley, large crank pulley, 14psi
310cc injectors, inline Walboro pump, malpassi FPR, GTS manifold
RIPP 9.5:1 forged pistons, decked and balanced block, P&P heads to lower manifold, RIPP headers with 1 high flow cat, ACT clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Quaife LSD, RIPP meth cooler.

The vehicle currently has the stock 2.25" catback exhuast with a Flowmaster muffler.

Guages: EGT, Boost/Vacuum, AEM wideband. EGT is in cylinder #4 exhaust 8in. from head, and wideband is in the fron header just before the "Y" pipe.

Car has 1800 miles on SDS. Idles perfect at around 14.7, and set on cruise the car stays STOICH. At part throttle and WOT the A/F ratio drops to 10.0 and the car runs like it's on two cylinders. The car goes into boost fine without any detremental effects. The only codes I throw are P0300 (every time the car is driven), and P2229 (what is this?). That's about it. Even before the SDS, but after the engine rebuild and header install, the car would run like crap in the rain or after going through a drive through car wash. Heavy amounts of water on the undercarriage have a negative effect on run condition. I've checked the O2 connections and they don't seem to be letting water in, as far as I can tell. The last time I launched my car from a dead stop, it blew the flex section loose from the Cat, in first gear. It made a loud boom as if the exuast coming out of the engine could not flow out of the cat and stock exhaust, and had to come out of the path of least resistance. This has caused no O2 or CAT codes at all. My car simply sounds like it has a hole in the exhuast, and it goes away once it warms up, that's it. No other change in driving. I have not and will not go into boost until this is fixed.

When the car does drop to 10.0, I can let off the throttle or downshift and then lightly press the throttle to get it to go back to 14.7. It's as if it get caught in a loop so long as the throttle stays wher it is until it's adjusted.
 

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if the TPS is bugging out this could def cause the rich problem. the car may be reading that it is at 3/4 or more throttle when it is actually running at a small to none deflection and that will def flood in the fuel.

can you verify your TPS readings with a data logger? if not use a voltmeter/ohmeter to test the resistance values are acceptable with the factory service manual specs.

factory fuel pressure at idle is 38psi with vac/ 45psi without vac. I forget your setup but with 310s and RIPP box the used to recommend 45psi with vac for fuel pressure. I am not aware of your setup so I cant say for sure. I run 33psi with vac at idle but i have 440s for now.
 

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When the car misfires, the ecu pulls the spark away from the cylinder(s) and the drop in EGT is expected. Until we figure it out, stay out of serious boost to avoid any damage.

Check the following:
TPS voltage and readings (idle and WOT with car off, KEY=ON)
O2 readings (idle with car running)
Vaccum @ idle
Fuel Pressure when driving if possible
Fuel Trims of LFTs on both banks at idle and part throttle

if the injectors are too big or worse messed up the car will not run right with that tune. Are you sure the injectors are saturated and not peak/hold? that would cause a nasty issue as well unless you got resistor packs on them. 330s shouldnt cause a gross problem.

With my new 440s so far the car runs stoopid rich but idles and drives part throttle better than ever. I havent gone WOT yet as i am working on the tune still and giving the ECU the proper time to learn in the fuel trims since i am still using the piggyback.
 

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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What are saturated, and peak-hold injectors? I have no clue what these are. They were used with the kit I got. I had them flow tested and 5 of 6 failed. The shop repaired them and reflowed them. I'll copy my numbers and such over to this thread.

On the TPS plug where do I test at? It has 3 prongs/plugs, on the plug.

My vacuum at idle as always been a hair over 15 (16ish) with and without the SDS with no variation. Unless of course I have a vacuum leak, which has happened once or twice.

What are LFT's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
This is from my install thread:

The specs on my fuel injector's

82
83.5
83
88
87
86


The guys at the speed center said that on a stock injector you usually take the average cc of the injectors and multiply that by how many cylinders to get your rating. They said that these injector's are probably rated for a 4 cylinder so my average cc of 85 X 4 is 340. Does that make sense to you guys? That with the variables and the cc of each injector it would put them at 310-340cc. Also, if these aren't 310's, do I need my BB reprogrammed or should it be fine.

Here's a pic of one of my injectors:


Also, I've found that if I set the car on cruise control while it's running STOICH, it will stay there until I take it off of cruise. If I set it on cruise while it's chugging at 10.0:1 it will also stay there until the cruise is turned off. So, it will act differently at the same RPM, in the same gear depeneding on what loop it is stuck in.

Last night I put the fuel pressure back at 45psi, and reset the ECU. It's still doing it. I'm going to give it another re-learn period and see if it works itself out.


ONE LAST THING I FORGOT TO MENTION :bash:

During my first learn period the alternator plug was not plugged in all the way and came out from the alternator. After two days of driving, my dash lights started acting all crazy and my battery went dead, the terminal on the alternator which leads to the battery also was not tightened down and had heat up, very bad. I got the battery charged and hooked the alternator back up and continued to drive it. Since then, I had my alternator tested on the car and it was putting out about 13.5V, not 14.2. Could this 1V difference be causing problems also?
 

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Stage 1 SDS @11+ psi
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CIAGENT said:
BTW, just to clarify, the A/F's are not bouncing to 10.0 on thier own, it is completely relative to throttle and RPM. This does NOT happen when sitting at idle and reving the engine, only under load. Lastly, when ever you let off the pedal Wideband's will jump to lean and then go to --- while the throttle shuts, then go back to reading A/F's. My car seems to linger for a second or two longer in the lean before going --- and then reading 14.7 now. Probably also causing the occasional stall out.
When you let of the petal during deceleration, ECU goes into open loop and cuts the fuel. That explains the spike in you AFRs. Not to worry, it is normal. The condition might be exaggerated because of the boost and your other issues.

I would start trouble shooting the entire system just to make sure you're not missing anything: BB wiring, O2 Ohms level (4-6 ohms?), O2 wiring (you might have a short, especially when you mentioned rain...) BOV functionality, etc. Your fuel system seems to be able to give you enough fuel at high boost and you have no idle issues. The problem seems more like that you are not getting the right amount at the right time...

Ripp has always recommended no or limited boost the first 500-1000 miles. Has that changed?
 

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Stage 1 SDS @11+ psi
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CIAGENT said:
Well, I just found a post on 2gstratus with all of the OBDII codes. At the very bottom the had a couple of 2000 series codes. Apparently 2229 is "Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input"

Any 'Barometric' code are usually cause by the inherent 'blow thru MAS' design of the SDS. Usually...
 

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Ah yes...
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repforenzo said:
Any 'Barometric' code are usually cause by the inherent 'blow thru MAS' design of the SDS. Usually...
I agree with that. Either going suck threw, such as simply extending the OEM MAS harness, far enough to put it before the filter, would be a cost effective way of helping to fix some minor issues and perhaps this one. Also know that any bolt up kit, is never just bolt up, always kinks. ;) Another option is to go with a GM MAF and Translator, but thats a $400 hit right there. Or the last option fuel standalone, even though always best choice, its most impractical for most people and the cost is extensive.
 

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whooops i shouldhave chimed in earlier.

i had this issue a year ago. i think i posted it. what you need to do is get some RTV sealeant and coat the o2 sensor from the wire ends up, especially were you made the extensions. you basically goo up enough stuff to make an outside wire sheath to make it waterproof. in fact the water does short it out. electrical tape doesnt work well enough.
 

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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
High 15 as in 15.9? I'm not sure but it seems to me you'd be all right under vacuum. Once you hit boost (depending on your setup) you want like 10.5-12.0 It doesn't oscillate? Mine bounces around 14.0-15.9 on the average and spikes to 11.0-16.9 as it's reading, just because there's so many changes per second. (This of course is when I'm NOT having the above metioned problem) On the average though you should be good if it's staying in the STOICH range. If it's in the high 15's under boost, you have a SERIOUS problem, and hopefully forged pistons.
 

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turbo? unf unf!
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mitsusaint, you will blow your motor up if you keep on doing it at WOT and the afr is 15.9:1

just don't floor it till you get safc w/ injectors.
 

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15 AFR is too high for a NA car at WOT. Don't drive your car hard at all, Mel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Okay, here's my current update. I've checked my fuel pressure, it between 45-50. When I disconnect the vacuum it raises 10psi. When I shut the car off it drops to 5-10 and holds for about 20sec. I ohm'd my 02's and the grey plugs were 13.4 (11-13) and the black plugs were 5.8 (4-6). I've also noticed that I have a pinhole leak at the bung on one of my pre cat O2's. My exhaust has also blown a leak at the flex section right before the cat. I'm guessing this happened from running 14psi with the stock cat back. The exhaust couldn't give after the cat because thats where it bolts up, so the flex section was the easiest give point. This Saturday I'm having the pinhole fixed, a new flex section welded in, and a 3 in. catback installed. After that I'm going to see how it runs and check the O2's again. As soon as I get the money I'm going to go ahead and replace my rear bank O2's since they are nearly .5 out of spec.

I checked the connections on the wire extensions and can't seem to figure out why heavy amounts of water on the undercarriage seems to cause my problems, they all look nicely sealed. Another odd thing I noticed is, my o2's have four wires (2 black, white, blue) these meet a solder point where one black meets black, blue meets green, white meets white, and the second black meets red. :ugh: There are no extensions, the four wire combo (red, black, green, white) run all the way into the plug. WTF? I not sure what the shop did. I thought the plugs were supposed to have the same (2 black, white, blue) combo as the O2 istself, with extensions in between. I have one black and one grey plug on the timing belt cover, and one black plug and one grey plug on the thermostat housing. Screw this, I'll post pics.
 

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we can make you talk
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Plugs on the passenger side:



Plugs on the driver side:



The off colored wiring:




The exhaust leaks:

 
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