[SnowTaipan]

Preemptive Caveats: I searched lots, that's how I got where I am on this plan. A big3 is no big deal to execute, but I am not real sure footed in electronics, so I need a hand figuring this out.

I am looking at getting the bits and pieces to relocate my battery to the trunk and upgrade the big 3. I have some extra 1/0 wire from work for the negative side, and I plan to get 4AWG for the positive lines since I dont have and dont plan to have a big sound system. (The two 8AWG from + to the fuse box can go up to one 4AWG, i read.)

I plan on:
on Hand lengts of 1/0 wire for grounding
25' 4AWG power wire
Absolute ICB120 type III inline breaker <18" from battery
LED pos battery terminal (easy check on batt)
KnuKonceptz Neg Battery terminal (up to 3 1/0 wires)

Can C3G check:
1) My schematic
2) help me plan the distro box (will Knukonceptz product detail for KONFUSED 2/3/4 WAY DISTRIBUTION POWER & GROUND BLOCK work, and if so the battery is at either battery position, or should I go with Amazon.com: Phoenix Gold 3-In/4-Out Fused Distribution Block: Automotive ?????)

How would this wire up in the Battery relocation? I figure 100A fuses on the input lines would be all right since on the KnuKonceptz since I have a 120A breaker <18" from battery, or do I not even need a fused block because of the 120A braker.

 

[SnowTaipan]

Bump

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[SnowTaipan]

...bump? Come on 3G, I KNOW someone can do this, and therefore can give me some idea of how you do it and what you need. PLZ

 

[Silvertune]

Universal Trunk Mount Battery Relocation Kit 2 Gauge Made in The USA New | eBay

Battery in back, put a 120 amp inline fuse by the battery in back. Run the negative cable under one of the rear seat belt bolts (Scrap off the paint first). Then run the + up to a distribution block which can be mounted on the frame rail mounting point for the battery tray and you run all the wires that currently go into the + terminal into the distribution block.

I've used that kit twice. 2 gauge is more than enough, zero cranking issues ever.

 

[jstewart92]

I would follow what he says and perhaps use what is listed in that link, due to his previous use with it.

From only glancing through the OP I would not use 4ga power wire for that distance, you're also using backwards logic by using thicker wire for the shorter ground wire.

I do have one of their power blocks in my engine bay and while installation can be annoying it does my intended job fine. 1 accessory connection, and 2 separate 4ga amp connections, all fused via the block.

 

[buddhalawton]

This up to you, but I would suggest putting a fuse in at the alternator output terminal. When you relocate the battery to the trunk there is no longer a fuse between the alternator and all of your consumers.

Here an example. If there is short under the hood or in the passenger compartment the battery fuse will blow but the alternator will continue to feed the system at it's maximum output until you shut off the engine. Not a good thing.

The factory alternator puts out around 80 amps or close to it. With a 100amp fuse block, it would not shut down current flow.

 

[jstewart92]

This up to you, but I would suggest putting a fuse in at the alternator output terminal. When you relocate the battery to the trunk there is no longer a fuse between the alternator and all of your consumers.

Here an example. If there is short under the hood or in the passenger compartment the battery fuse will blow but the alternator will continue to feed the system at it's maximum output until you shut off the engine. Not a good thing.

The factory alternator puts out around 80 amps or close to it. With a 100amp fuse block, it would not shut down current flow.

Using his distrubution block he can fuse it in the engine bay.... Doesn't the engine still need to be grounded to chassis? Or are you planning to keep the OEM wiring for that?


I would recommend the Knuconceptz compression connection over that other block's clamp connection.

 

[Silvertune]

I don't see how the relocation changes anything with the fuses. All the wires going to the + lead on the battery ends up in a distribution block than then feeds to the battery. Fuse it at the battery, and it's a stock configuration.

Unless you're saying adding a fuse at the alternator is a good idea regardless.

 

[buddhalawton]

I see what you are saying, Silver. From the factory they fuse the alternator. I think it's a good idea to do it when doing wiring mods as well. Important to fuse the alternator before any consumers are wired.

 

[SnowTaipan]

Wow, Silver JStewart and buddhalawton, THANKS for the super help.
1) I'm not planning to run any new sound or anything, I just need the room to work and an Optima on hand.

2) I plan to fuse within 18" of the battery @ 120A, which from what I read is a must. I dont understand why I would also fuse at the Alt, wouldn't that be redundant? Or am I missing something?

3)jstewart: I was thinking of using 0AWG to upgrade the big 3. However, which KnuKoncept block would you recommend?

Guys, thank you for the awesome help.

 

[Silvertune]

0 gauge is overkill. I've used the kit listed, 2 gauge wire and it does fine. Heck I've worked on two cars running 4 gauge that also had zero issues.

 

[SnowTaipan]

update

So this has been dead a minute. I have been really busy and doing have-to type work as opposed to want-to, but I can get back on this.

1) Optima yellow top d51r (group 51 battery, about L9.5xW5.5xH9.5) is hard to find boxes/trays for. Probably have to go with a group 24 box. I have been fighting that but the only type 51 units I can find are like 80 buck. Too rich for my blood. I'll do a fiber glass box later on.

2) 120A inline circuit breaker within 18" of terminal (as a fuse and quick disconnect) Amazon.com: Absolute ICB120-02 Circuit Breaker: Car Electronics

3) Doing with 4AWG for the power wires. No reason not to as far as I can see since I dont plan on running a sound system. Should have about 25-30' welding cable.

4) Knukoncepts KNF-23 for my distro block. 4awg in, 3x 4awgs out
a) To starter
b) To alternator
c) single 4awg to fuse box (currently 2x 8awg)

5) LED pos terminal for quick checks. Also a high speed negative terminal.
I guess I'll find out what i'm missing as I go along. I plan to get all this by the end of the month and have the battery in the trunk in 60 days.