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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a good, fair priced rebuild kit for these engines. I've searched for a while now here and haven't been very successful in doing so. I am new so maybe i'm missing something helpful here. Its an 03 Eclipse GT 6G72. M/T. 180k miles. Not looking to send it to the moon. Just want to refresh what is there and stop it from crying oil everywhere. Any help or advice on this is greatly helpful. For noe i guess my search continues on the other ends of the web.
 

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Try carid.com and rockauto.com

As for the oil leaks, valve cover gaskets are notorious on these engines. If you do those yourself, don't use the felpro gaskets, they are almost always too big. Get the OE. Could also have leaking cam and/or crank seals.

I will be doing a rebuild myself eventually. I can get an entire engine with accessories at my local salvage yard for $182 plus $50 core. I'm gonna strip it down, possibly bore and stroke it, definitely port and polish, and do a ground up custom turbo set up.

Anyway, enough about mine. Good luck in your rebuild.
 

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Rockauto seems like the route i will be taking on this prodject. Got the engine tore down to basically the block and the crank. Seems likes it has had blow by issues with oil coming up the PCV, Not sure but there is heavy carbon build up on upper and lower pleniums as well as pistons. The next week or so will consist of cleaning all the sludge off the heads as well as other parts. Waiting for rebuild kit.
 

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Rockauto is a very good place for parts. If you have anything like a pic-a-part salvage yard near you, they may be worth checking out. I had a nasty oil leak from the rear valve cover. Gaskets were changed at some point and the bolts weren't torqued properly. I got both VC's from a wrecked 3g that had never been removed for $20. Through those on in a couple hours and no more leaks.

Blow by issues would be due to worn piston rings. Mic out the cylinders if possible. I would hate to see a rebuild go bad because the walls were worn and oversized pistons were needed. If you had oil coming up the pcv, you had sludge build up in the valve cover baffle, which through research I have found to be common on these.

Unless you are wanting to remain completely stock, now might be a good time to have the heads ported and polished. If for no other reason, air flow will improve and so will fuel mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Side Note Could get oversized pistons (+0.20mm) if needed, Any idea where i should look to find OEM tolorance limits?
 

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It means to take measurements with a micrometer. You would use an internal micrometer to get the measurement, then actually measure that with an outside micrometer to determine how much wear your cylinder walls have suffered. It most likely isn't going to be an issue, especially for a stock rebuild.

I apologize if I was/am to technical with wording. I forget at times that when I started out, I knew nothing. But after years of turning wrenches, it's all 2nd nature and sometimes and sometimes I get lost in that.

I don't have much experience on these engines specifically, but a 4 stroke gas engine is a 4 stroke gas engine. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
 

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Side Note Could get oversized pistons (+0.20mm) if needed, Any idea where i should look to find OEM tolorance limits?
Wear shouldn't cause you to go that large in piston increase. If that's the case, you can bore these blocks out. When you took the old pistons out, did it seam like they had a lot of play or movement inside the cylinders or still a tight fit?

You can try Google or ask around on the performance thread I would think. Search for it. I have no doubt that that very question has been asked an answered on here somewhere. I will look in to it myself and see what I can find.
 

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DH01 nailed it: you can’t screw around with the clearances. Do you have that type of measuring equipment? That’ll obviously help you determine whether the cylinder walls need to go 20 over or if you can get by with a hone. Maybe I missed it in your posts, but were you planning to get the block, the heads, and the crank machined/polished?


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Discussion Starter #10
Wear shouldn't cause you to go that large in piston increase. If that's the case, you can bore these blocks out. When you took the old pistons out, did it seam like they had a lot of play or movement inside the cylinders or still a tight fit?

You can try Google or ask around on the performance thread I would think. Search for it. I have no doubt that that very question has been asked an answered on here somewhere. I will look in to it myself and see what I can find.
Have yet to actually remove pistons as i initialy didn't plan on going that deep into the rebuild, the only thing that i really took notice to today when i was on the car, was that there was some odd scratching on the cylinder walls, for lack of better terminology, it was scratched as if you tried to remove the piston dry, while twisting it on the way out. terrible discription but its the best i can think of at the moment. Tomorrow when i get back to the shop, i'll get some pics and take some measurements. But i Figure worst case scenario ill just bore it out and go from there.
 

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DH01 nailed it: you can’t screw around with the clearances. Do you have that type of measuring equipment? That’ll obviously help you determine whether the cylinder walls need to go 20 over or if you can get by with a hone. Maybe I missed it in your posts, but were you planning to get the block, the heads, and the crank machined/polished?


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Not really, no. it's just a stock (more or less) budget rebuild. Just want it as a good daily for now. Big plans down the road maybe in a few years though. I'm working on (again more or less) a $2k budget. As far as tools yes, Monday I have another shop i will be in and i could just take the block with me to get exact measurements.
 

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Ah, so you haven’t pulled the pistons yet. Before you do, you may want to check into having a machine shop rebuild your short block. I would check to see if the cost is reasonable. Believe me, they’d rather get it assembled than a box of parts. Just a thought.


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So you aren't as far along yet. Good. Do as you said and take the block to get it measured. Leave the pistons in it for now. Whoever measures it, should be able to look and tell you if there is gonna be an issue. The marks you are seeing on the cylinder walls, as long as they look like a crosshatch all the way down, you are golden. It should look like that. If it looks smooth or you can see/feel vertical grooves, then you will need at the very least a good honing, possible bored with the oversized pistons. If I am correct, these are cast blocks, which will take a beating with no more than what power they put out stock.

repforenzo is correct. If you can have the short block done professionally, do it. You will thank yourself in the long run. Also have the heads ported and polished while they are at it. If the time comes that you do decide to go big, that part of the work will already be done, keeping you from pulling the engine again. The port and polish will give better airflow past the valves, thus allowing for more efficient power building and usage.
 

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Any idea of a ball park range? ($$$) The places around me are know to be scummy, Even lube shops.
That depends on your location, and what kind of work they may have ahead of you. Make some calls. Visit and talk to some of the older mechanics in your area. They are a wealth of info. Just be honest with them. Tell them it's your first rebuild and you wanna do it right but on a budget and want to do as much of it yourself as you can. They will respect that. Some will tell you to throw the car away because they are all about American muscle. And some will give you pointers and tell you what to do and who to talk to.
 

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So you aren't as far along yet. Good. Do as you said and take the block to get it measured. Leave the pistons in it for now. Whoever measures it, should be able to look and tell you if there is gonna be an issue. The marks you are seeing on the cylinder walls, as long as they look like a crosshatch all the way down, you are golden. It should look like that. If it looks smooth or you can see/feel vertical grooves, then you will need at the very least a good honing, possible bored with the oversized pistons. If I am correct, these are cast blocks, which will take a beating with no more than what power they put out stock.

repforenzo is correct. If you can have the short block done professionally, do it. You will thank yourself in the long run. Also have the heads ported and polished while they are at it. If the time comes that you do decide to go big, that part of the work will already be done, keeping you from pulling the engine again. The port and polish will give better airflow past the valves, thus allowing for more efficient power building and usage.
Yeah Cross hatch, thats a better term for what i saw i did check for any verticle scarring and couldn't see any. i'm not a professional by any means, but i would almost say someone previously (not long ago) did the same thing to this engine and just botched it. valve cover gasket felt fairly new and looked felpro.... and the headgaskets didn't look worn or odd by any means, i feel like they probably rebuilt it, had it still leak oil, and said screw it, just let it leak while they drove around and then they demolished the clutch so they sold it to me, Best guess that is. I think ill look into the port and polish for heads Wonder if its worth is to do intake upper and lower as well? More research to be done I suppose. Getting late out here though going to turn in for the night. i'll check back tomorrow with any new findings.
 

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Yeah Cross hatch, thats a better term for what i saw i did check for any verticle scarring and couldn't see any. i'm not a professional by any means, but i would almost say someone previously (not long ago) did the same thing to this engine and just botched it. valve cover gasket felt fairly new and looked felpro.... and the headgaskets didn't look worn or odd by any means, i feel like they probably rebuilt it, had it still leak oil, and said screw it, just let it leak while they drove around and then they demolished the clutch so they sold it to me, Best guess that is. I think ill look into the port and polish for heads Wonder if its worth is to do intake upper and lower as well? More research to be done I suppose. Getting late out here though going to turn in for the night. i'll check back tomorrow with any new findings.
That is always possible. Crosshatch is good. It's not likely that is has been rebuilt yet. Probably did the valve cover gaskets and botched it. Clutch could be cause the tried to "race" it not knowing their ass from a hole in the ground. You are on be the right path by asking questions.
 

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The 6G72 that comes in the GTs, are pretty easy to find rebuild kits. If you get into a GTS, there are no rebuild kits available to my knowledge. I am having an engine rebuilt for my GTS now and thr machine shop ordered a standard rebuild kit and have to have piston rings made for mine. Don't use the felpro valve cover gasket. They are shit, and don't tighten them down too much. They are only 10mm bolts. I did order a timing belt kits awhile back from Contential and the kit came with cam seals that are OEM spec.
 

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The 6G72 that comes in the GTs, are pretty easy to find rebuild kits. If you get into a GTS, there are no rebuild kits available to my knowledge. I am having an engine rebuilt for my GTS now and thr machine shop ordered a standard rebuild kit and have to have piston rings made for mine. Don't use the felpro valve cover gasket. They are shit, and don't tighten them down too much. They are only 10mm bolts. I did order a timing belt kits awhile back from Contential and the kit came with cam seals that are OEM spec.
I think they are the same engine except for programming. I could be wrong though. That being said, if they are having to get different rings, I assume because the cylinder size increased, they should have ordered oversized pistons and bored it over a bit. A proper rebuild kit should come with cam and crank seals anyways.
 

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I think they are the same engine except for programming. I could be wrong though. That being said, if they are having to get different rings, I assume because the cylinder size increased, they should have ordered oversized pistons and bored it over a bit. A proper rebuild kit should come with cam and crank seals anyways.
GTS has different cams and high compression pistons and the intake uses mitsubishi VIC system
 
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