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Discussion Starter #22
GTS has different cams and high compression pistons and the intake uses mitsubishi VIC system
I read that the GT and GTS Share the exact same 6g74 V6 SOHC 24 Valve Engine. The older 6G72's came as a 12 Valve, and there is the 6G72 for a 3000GT that can come as DOHC. Just from my research.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I also have a question Measuments all checked out on the Bore, So my prior questions remains, what would cause alot of carbon build up on piston head and intakes? its pretty heavy on the and the intake seems like its a mix of really dirty gunk mixed with a bit of oil to make it kinda sticky, Like sticky carbon deposites. The pistons i could explain if they never opened it up and just had alot of idleing time never really heating it up all the way. But that would contradict my clutch theory. but closest thing i can think for intake goop would be pcv blow-by which would be Piston rings right?
So am i close to the how and why it is how it is?
and would new STD piston rings fix a bad ring issue or does a bad ring issue condemn the long block to either hone or bore, and if there is no visible nor measurable damage to the cylinder could i just slap new rings on the pistons or am i doomed to replace pistons, wrist pins, piston rings and probably rod bearings at that point just cause...

i got it all torn down and am just trying to be 100% of how to go about starting to put it together my automotive knowledge for blocks and pistons is pretty limited. so forgive all the questions
 

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Discussion Starter #24
EDIT
oh now it posts
End Edit
damn it. i just typed a ton of info and it didn't post. :sigh: in short bores look good but still wondering about carbon and goopy gunk on the inside of intake manifold

Piston rings? can they be replaced without a bore or a hone? and how would i verify piston rings need replacing?

limited block and piston knowledge for me i'm more of a top end guy haha.
 

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I read that the GT and GTS Share the exact same 6g74 V6 SOHC 24 Valve Engine. The older 6G72's came as a 12 Valve, and there is the 6G72 for a 3000GT that can come as DOHC. Just from my research.
It is a 6G72 engine and not they are not exactly the same. I just got done fighting this battle because I could not find a 6G72 reman. engine built to GTS spec.
 

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I also have a question Measuments all checked out on the Bore, So my prior questions remains, what would cause alot of carbon build up on piston head and intakes? its pretty heavy on the and the intake seems like its a mix of really dirty gunk mixed with a bit of oil to make it kinda sticky, Like sticky carbon deposites. The pistons i could explain if they never opened it up and just had alot of idleing time never really heating it up all the way. But that would contradict my clutch theory. but closest thing i can think for intake goop would be pcv blow-by which would be Piston rings right?
So am i close to the how and why it is how it is?
and would new STD piston rings fix a bad ring issue or does a bad ring issue condemn the long block to either hone or bore, and if there is no visible nor measurable damage to the cylinder could i just slap new rings on the pistons or am i doomed to replace pistons, wrist pins, piston rings and probably rod bearings at that point just cause...

i got it all torn down and am just trying to be 100% of how to go about starting to put it together my automotive knowledge for blocks and pistons is pretty limited. so forgive all the questions
I will do my best to answer all of your questions here.

If all of the measurements are good, the cylinder walls still have the crosshatches on them, no damage to the pistons, then you can get away with cleaning it all up and replacing just the rings. Bad rings are the cause of blow-by. The PCV relieves the normal amount that you get while keeping the oil in the engine, but it can only pass so much pressure. Inconsistent or long interval oil changes plugs the PCV and it can stick open, allowing oil to pass into the intake causing the carbon build up there and on the valves and piston heads. High idle times and constant short trips without warning up causes carbon build up as well.When rings go bad, blow-by goes up, crankcase pressure goes up, oil starts to leak from everywhere it can squeeze out of. Once the pressure gets high enough it will crack the block or just grenade itself. The stickyness could be just carbon build up with more oil on it due to the above explanation. It could have a blown head gasket, which can leak coolant and oil internally, with or without damage to the block or heads. You would know that though just by it overheating or using a lot of coolant.

You could get away with just doing new rings, seals, and gaskets. Definitely do new plugs, wires, PCV, all the normal time up stuff, water pump, timing belt and tensioner. Flush the radiator and heater core as well. Deposits can and do build up, especially if it wasn't taken care of properly. You don't want that crap getting into your fresh engine. Use higher quality fluids and filters, and keep good consistency with all oil changes and cooling system flushes. That being said, if you have plans of boosting it or going for major power down the road, do a full rebuild. All the crank and rod bearings, forged internals, port and polish the heads, maybe even a new set of injectors or at least have your old ones flow tested and cleaned. As far the clutch goes, replace it now while it's out. They aren't expensive unless you put a full racing clutch in. But no, the clutch issue won't cause issues with the engine unless it lets go or locks up to hard and bends the crank (this would take way more power than you are running though).

It's all up to you and how far you want to go, or if you need it soon, how much you can afford to spend. I hope I answered your questions. If you have anymore, just ask.
 

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I also have a question Measuments all checked out on the Bore, So my prior questions remains, what would cause alot of carbon build up on piston head and intakes? its pretty heavy on the and the intake seems like its a mix of really dirty gunk mixed with a bit of oil to make it kinda sticky, Like sticky carbon deposites. The pistons i could explain if they never opened it up and just had alot of idleing time never really heating it up all the way. But that would contradict my clutch theory. but closest thing i can think for intake goop would be pcv blow-by which would be Piston rings right?
So am i close to the how and why it is how it is?
and would new STD piston rings fix a bad ring issue or does a bad ring issue condemn the long block to either hone or bore, and if there is no visible nor measurable damage to the cylinder could i just slap new rings on the pistons or am i doomed to replace pistons, wrist pins, piston rings and probably rod bearings at that point just cause...

i got it all torn down and am just trying to be 100% of how to go about starting to put it together my automotive knowledge for blocks and pistons is pretty limited. so forgive all the questions
We could help answer your questions quicker with some pictures of what you're seeing. Take some pictures of what you're seeing on the cylinder walls and pistons and we'll tell you what we think. Make sure they are well lit and not blurry.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I will do my best to answer all of your questions here.

If all of the measurements are good, the cylinder walls still have the crosshatches on them, no damage to the pistons, then you can get away with cleaning it all up and replacing just the rings. Bad rings are the cause of blow-by. The PCV relieves the normal amount that you get while keeping the oil in the engine, but it can only pass so much pressure. Inconsistent or long interval oil changes plugs the PCV and it can stick open, allowing oil to pass into the intake causing the carbon build up there and on the valves and piston heads. High idle times and constant short trips without warning up causes carbon build up as well.When rings go bad, blow-by goes up, crankcase pressure goes up, oil starts to leak from everywhere it can squeeze out of. Once the pressure gets high enough it will crack the block or just grenade itself. The stickyness could be just carbon build up with more oil on it due to the above explanation. It could have a blown head gasket, which can leak coolant and oil internally, with or without damage to the block or heads. You would know that though just by it overheating or using a lot of coolant.

You could get away with just doing new rings, seals, and gaskets. Definitely do new plugs, wires, PCV, all the normal time up stuff, water pump, timing belt and tensioner. Flush the radiator and heater core as well. Deposits can and do build up, especially if it wasn't taken care of properly. You don't want that crap getting into your fresh engine. Use higher quality fluids and filters, and keep good consistency with all oil changes and cooling system flushes. That being said, if you have plans of boosting it or going for major power down the road, do a full rebuild. All the crank and rod bearings, forged internals, port and polish the heads, maybe even a new set of injectors or at least have your old ones flow tested and cleaned. As far the clutch goes, replace it now while it's out. They aren't expensive unless you put a full racing clutch in. But no, the clutch issue won't cause issues with the engine unless it lets go or locks up to hard and bends the crank (this would take way more power than you are running though).

It's all up to you and how far you want to go, or if you need it soon, how much you can afford to spend. I hope I answered your questions. If you have anymore, just ask.
[/QUOT
I will do my best to answer all of your questions here.

If all of the measurements are good, the cylinder walls still have the crosshatches on them, no damage to the pistons, then you can get away with cleaning it all up and replacing just the rings. Bad rings are the cause of blow-by. The PCV relieves the normal amount that you get while keeping the oil in the engine, but it can only pass so much pressure. Inconsistent or long interval oil changes plugs the PCV and it can stick open, allowing oil to pass into the intake causing the carbon build up there and on the valves and piston heads. High idle times and constant short trips without warning up causes carbon build up as well.When rings go bad, blow-by goes up, crankcase pressure goes up, oil starts to leak from everywhere it can squeeze out of. Once the pressure gets high enough it will crack the block or just grenade itself. The stickyness could be just carbon build up with more oil on it due to the above explanation. It could have a blown head gasket, which can leak coolant and oil internally, with or without damage to the block or heads. You would know that though just by it overheating or using a lot of coolant.

You could get away with just doing new rings, seals, and gaskets. Definitely do new plugs, wires, PCV, all the normal time up stuff, water pump, timing belt and tensioner. Flush the radiator and heater core as well. Deposits can and do build up, especially if it wasn't taken care of properly. You don't want that crap getting into your fresh engine. Use higher quality fluids and filters, and keep good consistency with all oil changes and cooling system flushes. That being said, if you have plans of boosting it or going for major power down the road, do a full rebuild. All the crank and rod bearings, forged internals, port and polish the heads, maybe even a new set of injectors or at least have your old ones flow tested and cleaned. As far the clutch goes, replace it now while it's out. They aren't expensive unless you put a full racing clutch in. But no, the clutch issue won't cause issues with the engine unless it lets go or locks up to hard and bends the crank (this would take way more power than you are running though).

It's all up to you and how far you want to go, or if you need it soon, how much you can afford to spend. I hope I answered your questions. If you have anymore, just ask.

That pretty much answered it i just finished tearing down heads got them pretty cleaned up and will be lapping the valves either tonight or tomorrow. Will be getting new rings and headstuds first, then the rebuild kit for all gaskets and seals. maybe a week or so until i post back again, But if anyone has any pointers for getting the crankcase? upper oil pan? where ever the rod bearings sit, there is a sump under them and it seems pretty stuck to the block, so any tips for removing that, as well as pistons and redoing rings i'm all ears. Thanks for all your guys' help so far. Feeling pretty good about this.
 

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That pretty much answered it i just finished tearing down heads got them pretty cleaned up and will be lapping the valves either tonight or tomorrow. Will be getting new rings and headstuds first, then the rebuild kit for all gaskets and seals. maybe a week or so until i post back again, But if anyone has any pointers for getting the crankcase? upper oil pan? where ever the rod bearings sit, there is a sump under them and it seems pretty stuck to the block, so any tips for removing that, as well as pistons and redoing rings i'm all ears. Thanks for all your guys' help so far. Feeling pretty good about this.
Headstuds are a good thing. I forgot that.

Your rod bearings are where the rods attach to the crank. For the rest of it, try looking in the service manual. I haven't been inside this particular engine, so I am of little use there. Big tip I have, use a good assembly lube or thick oil on all the bearing as it goes together. You don't want to start it dry. Biggest tip though, follow all torque specs precisely. Fastest way to ruin everything.
 

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Is there a good, fair priced rebuild kit for these engines. I've searched for a while now here and haven't been very successful in doing so. I am new so maybe i'm missing something helpful here. Its an 03 Eclipse GT 6G72. M/T. 180k miles. Not looking to send it to the moon. Just want to refresh what is there and stop it from crying oil everywhere. Any help or advice on this is greatly helpful. For noe i guess my search continues on the other ends of the web.

I believe you can use stratus parts when ordering. Its cheaper.
 
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