I'm working on my wife's older eclipse. It's a 3.0v6 with 79k miles. It had a misfire so I gave it a tune up (plugs, wires, distributor rotor and cap). After the tune up it got worse. It stalled out alot. You couldn't barely drive it without it stalling. And the idling was all over the place while in park. A mechanic diagnosed the iac as the issue so I had him replace that. It ran for a couple days and then started stalling again. I then replaced the distributor unit. The reason I did that is bc I see alot of people saying the rotor goes in 1 way but it would spin a full circle when I installed it. Needless to say I figured I fucked it up and I replaced the entire unit. Not I'm getting codes p0335 and p0340. I'm going to assume maybe it's a faulty distributor or would that be a crank issue/timing belt? I just don't understand how I'd get codes for a misfire. Then an iac. Then the crank. Each set of codes coming in after I fix the previous code.
Gts timing issue?
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I'm working on my wife's older eclipse. It's a 3.0v6 with 79k miles. It had a misfire so I gave it a tune up (plugs, wires, distributor rotor and cap). After the tune up it got worse. It stalled out alot. You couldn't barely drive it without it stalling. And the idling was all over the place while in park. A mechanic diagnosed the iac as the issue so I had him replace that. It ran for a couple days and then started stalling again. I then replaced the distributor unit. The reason I did that is bc I see alot of people saying the rotor goes in 1 way but it would spin a full circle when I installed it. Needless to say I figured I fucked it up and I replaced the entire unit. Not I'm getting codes p0335 and p0340. I'm going to assume maybe it's a faulty distributor or would that be a crank issue/timing belt? I just don't understand how I'd get codes for a misfire. Then an iac. Then the crank. Each set of codes coming in after I fix the previous code.
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I recently replaced my son's distributor on his 2003 GT. The one that I got for Autozone solved the misfiring, but caused PO 335 and 340 codes. It was the wrong one. Our distributors have the cam sensor built into it (reluctor wheel). There are so many different versions of this distributor across different platforms, so its very easy to get the wrong one.
I ended up having to return it. They were convinced that they had given me the right part, even cross referencing the VIN #. I wasn't, so I went to Advanced Auto and got the correct unit. No more codes. Not the Auto Zone guys fault, it's the manufacture.
I ended up having to return it. They were convinced that they had given me the right part, even cross referencing the VIN #. I wasn't, so I went to Advanced Auto and got the correct unit. No more codes. Not the Auto Zone guys fault, it's the manufacture.
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3,063 Posts
The distributor can only go in one way. It's the distributor. See your other thread.
Here's what the two styles of reluctor wheels look like. I'd check the old distributor reluctor to see what you originally had, since you know that one was correct. It's probably the four-tab version (2003-2005) since you have a GTS, but I'd check just to be certain.
You only need to remove the distributor cap and rotor, then the black plastic dust cover. It's held in place with three small machine screws. There's also a ~1/2" o-ring you don't want to lose.
The top picture is a comparison of the two reluctors. The bottom is an exploded view of a distributor.
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You only need to remove the distributor cap and rotor, then the black plastic dust cover. It's held in place with three small machine screws. There's also a ~1/2" o-ring you don't want to lose.
The top picture is a comparison of the two reluctors. The bottom is an exploded view of a distributor.
I appreciate the help! My brother and I figured it out. We used the oem distributor with the correct reluctor wheel, and I installed a new rotor and cap. The rotor I put on initially didn't match timing and caused the misfire.....on a side note the car runs amazing now. Probably more amazing than it did when my wife got it like 14 years ago lol. It was her first car. But since getting that issue corrected I have. Ode p0401 and p0455. Everyone says it could be a vent valve solenoid. But since that's a vacuum leak and an egr code wouldn't it make more sense to be a vacuum line, egr valve, or purge valve/solenoid?
Those two codes are probably unrelated. The P0401 is set by insufficient pressure in the EGR system. Could be a leak, a blockage, a bad EGR solenoid, or a bad EGR valve. Or the circuitry for connector for an electrical component like the EGR solenoid. You need a hand vacuum pump and a multimeter, and work through the troubleshooting steps in the factory service manual chapter 13B and 13A. Not in the manual, but there's also a flow restrictor in one of the EGR vacuum lines off the EGR vacuum control valve that sometimes gets blocked with soot and restricts flow too much. A good place to start with P0401 is to push out that restrictor, clean it, and replace it.
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The P0455 is set when the system can't maintain low air pressure in the fuel evaporative system. Without low pressure, fuel in the tank vaporizes and escapes into the atmosphere. A lot of things can cause this, including a bad evaporative emission purge solenoid, the sensor that reads the pressure, or an air leak in one of the many rubber evaporative lines in the system (both under the hood, and around the fuel tank and fill neck. I'd start with troubleshooting the emission purge solenoid to make sure it's working, then break out a mity-vac vacuum pump and start checking per the FSM.
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One of the old-school members hosts the entire factory service manual at tearstone.com. It's a superb reference for troubleshooting. I always recommend that Eclipse owners with even a hint of mechanical ability download all the chapters and save them on their computers for easier searching.
The P0455 is set when the system can't maintain low air pressure in the fuel evaporative system. Without low pressure, fuel in the tank vaporizes and escapes into the atmosphere. A lot of things can cause this, including a bad evaporative emission purge solenoid, the sensor that reads the pressure, or an air leak in one of the many rubber evaporative lines in the system (both under the hood, and around the fuel tank and fill neck. I'd start with troubleshooting the emission purge solenoid to make sure it's working, then break out a mity-vac vacuum pump and start checking per the FSM.
One of the old-school members hosts the entire factory service manual at tearstone.com. It's a superb reference for troubleshooting. I always recommend that Eclipse owners with even a hint of mechanical ability download all the chapters and save them on their computers for easier searching.
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