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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I just bought a used 2004 Eclipse GT with only 90k miles. The only issue I'm having is there's a really loud scraping noise that sounds like rusted rotors scraping against brake pads.

I've already done some research and most threads say it could be the wheel bearing or the metal back plate. I first tried replacing the pads and rotors and that didn't help it actually made the sound worse. Then I tried replacing both wheel bearings and that didn't fix it.

Now I'm stuck I know when I remove the rotor and spin the wheel it's silent but with the rotor on and no caliper it still makes a grinding noise. Any help?
 

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2005 Spyder GT
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Hi I just bought a used 2004 Eclipse GT with only 90k miles. The only issue I'm having is there's a really loud scraping noise that sounds like rusted rotors scraping against brake pads.

I've already done some research and most threads say it could be the wheel bearing or the metal back plate. I first tried replacing the pads and rotors and that didn't help it actually made the sound worse. Then I tried replacing both wheel bearings and that didn't fix it.

Now I'm stuck I know when I remove the rotor and spin the wheel it's silent but with the rotor on and no caliper it still makes a grinding noise. Any help?
probably rotor scraping the dust shield...jack up car, remove wheel, release emergency brake, put lug nuts back on and tighten lug nuts to hold rotor in place (this works better with open style lug nuts), slowly rotate the rotor until you hear scraping and then look very closely, especially the space between the rotor and dust shield. From what you have already described, there's no other place it could be scraping. Probably a small rock/pebble wedged in the dust shield or the shield is bent out of shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
probably rotor scraping the dust shield...jack up car, remove wheel, release emergency brake, put lug nuts back on and tighten lug nuts to hold rotor in place (this works better with open style lug nuts), slowly rotate the rotor until you hear scraping and then look very closely, especially the space between the rotor and dust shield. From what you have already described, there's no other place it could be scraping. Probably a small rock/pebble wedged in the dust shield or the shield is bent out of shape.
I don't think its the dust shield i've bent it back already and even when i pull the rotor and let it almost hang off the studs and spin it I hear grinding on both sides.
I'm thinking it could be what the rotor sits on but not sure.
 

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I adjusted the brake shoes with the adjustment star and that still didnt fix the scraping sound. Not sure what else to try
Maybe if i destroy the dust shield itll go away
1. try removing the dust shield to see if the noise goes away
2. remove the rotor and inspect the parking brake mechanism, springs, etc. Maybe something is touching the rotor as it turns?
3. check if wheel or tire is rubbing on something
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1. try removing the dust shield to see if the noise goes away
2. remove the rotor and inspect the parking brake mechanism, springs, etc. Maybe something is touching the rotor as it turns?
3. check if wheel or tire is rubbing on something
You were right removing the dust shield made the noise go away but its not rubbing against the shield I think it's this hard lip
I dont know what would cause this but im gonna try cutting this part off
Wheel Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Tread
 

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It appears you have a fitment issue between your rotor and brake housing. The scraped area you circled is obviously where contact is being made. It could be warped rotors or wrong size rotors. It also could be the rotors not being equally torqued at all studs when installed. Try adding flat washers on all five studs before installing the rotor. This might give you enough clearance so it doesn't rub at that scraping mark. If that solves the problem, then replace the washers with the correct width/thickness "wheel spacers" for a more permanent solution. So in your case, the spacers would go between the wheel hub and rotor, not between the rotor and tire. You probably can get away with fairly thin spacers so you don't need to install longer studs.
However, what I find unusual is you said the scraping is happening on both sides. That leads me to believe you have the wrong rotors...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
However, what I find unusual is you said the scraping is happening on both sides. That leads me to believe you have the wrong rotors...
Thanks for the suggestion I'll try washers then spacers. I don't think it's the rotors because even before replacing them the ones on the car scraped too. Here's a link to the ones I bought though ACDelco Silver 18A1264A Rear Disc Brake Rotor https://a.co/d/dVwEUvd
 

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Thanks for the suggestion I'll try washers then spacers. I don't think it's the rotors because even before replacing them the ones on the car scraped too. Here's a link to the ones I bought though ACDelco Silver 18A1264A Rear Disc Brake Rotor https://a.co/d/dVwEUvd
Those appear to be the correct rotors, but something is funky bc it shouldn't be scraping in the spot you circled. I think the rotor should fit over that lip, not on top of it. Maybe the previous owner replaced the e-brake housing and dust shield with the wrong parts?
You could also try hammering down that lip where its scraping enough to provide clearance, but be careful and start off lightly with like a ball peen hammer and properly support the part you are hammering. Or use a grinder if the metal is thick enough. I can't help but think that something got out of shape somehow...
 

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2001 Spyder GT
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I just thought I would mention how the backing plates work on my 2002 Dodge Dakota... There are three raised bumps on the plate that keep the brake shoe square to the drum when breaking. When installing new shoes, it said to put a little dab of grease in this area. After about a week, the brake started squealing again, so I added a bit more grease. You can't put too much because you don't want the grease to get on the shoe. After a week or so, the squealing comes back.so I just live with it. Being that both my truck and the Mitsubishi were sold by Chrysler, I wonder if the same applies here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Those appear to be the correct rotors, but something is funky bc it shouldn't be scraping in the spot you circled.
Now that I think about it the spot I circled is where I tried to sand down rust because I thought it was rust making the noise. So I'm just going to repaint the whole backing plate and wherever the paint gets scraped off is where my problem is. I'll report back in 2 days
 

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Also check your e-brake for proper operation, that is, equal pressure against inside of rotor when applied, and full retraction of pads when released. So check springs and location of pads without the rotor in place, and before and after applying and releasing the e-brake handle. The pads should spread and retract equally and smoothly. If they are wearing unequally, then there is a problem with the assembly.
 

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You can't just space the rotor out from the hub, the brake caliper is aligned with the hub. Pushing the rotor out will screw with brake operation and likely cause the caliper to either not fit, rub the rotor, or drag the brake pads really badly.
Root cause is likely the lip on the backing plate is warped due to whatever is behind it, possibly rust, pushing outward on it. You need to see what's happening there with the backing plate and either repair or remove the high spot on the backing plate.
 

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You can't just space the rotor out from the hub, the brake caliper is aligned with the hub. Pushing the rotor out will screw with brake operation and likely cause the caliper to either not fit, rub the rotor, or drag the brake pads really badly.
Root cause is likely the lip on the backing plate is warped due to whatever is behind it, possibly rust, pushing outward on it. You need to see what's happening there with the backing plate and either repair or remove the high spot on the backing plate.
You are correct...my bad...having a senior moment, I guess? LOL
 
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