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Discussion Starter #1
hi all,
I'm in the process of changing the cam seal on the eclipse but i'm stuck at removing the camshaft sprocket..
I tried the method of using the breaker bar and a long extension to hold the sprocket stationary while try to remove the bolt..
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but everytime i tried to remove the bolt, the sprocket moved..
I look online for the removal tool but they don't look like they work well.
Is there any other method to remove the sprocket??
Thanks for your help...I'm stuck at this and the car is on the jack .....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I already removed the belt so I made a V arm to hold the cam while using the breaker bar to break the bolt..
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I was able to remove the camshafts and replace one seal.
When i was looking at the crank to replace the seal. The seal currently on it is orange.
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I believe this is the updated seal. The original one should be black. I don't want to change out the seal if it's still good.
Can someone please confirm that?
Thanks.
 

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The color makes no difference. But why would you replace the seals if there's no leak? On these engines that's not preventative maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's what i'm thinking too.. if the seal is still good why bother right.. but since the other camshaft seals were leaking,i'm not sure of this one was part of the problem. I didn't change it out but will keep an eye out for it.
The other obstacle i run into is the timing belt tensioner.
If I follow "how to change timing belt V6 with pictures" instruction in here, the step for the hydraulic tensioner and pulley is using either a long screw driver or fry bar to drive the pulley into the timing belt then tighten the 14mm bolt before pulling the pin on the hydraulic tensioner.

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If i do that, the gap between the hydraulic tensioner and the pulley is very big and the pin on the hydraulic tensioner is really sticking out.
I read the manual again and it just said that torque the pulley fixing bolt to 15 N.m then set the belt tension without telling how to do it.
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Other videos on youtube keeps the same exact gap as the old hydraulic tensioner without checking them.
I want to use the fry bar to drive the pulley to the timing belt but the gap is a concern for me...
What do you guys think??
 

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When I did my timing belt 2 years ago, I applied just enough tension to the belt to where the pin would free spin. A guy I know that did a 3000GT rebuild showed me this and I did not have any problems with it afterwards. Just make sure to tighten the bolt down to spec.
 

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If you put a pry bar between the tensioner arm and tensioner pulley and pry clockwise, the tensioner pulley should spin counterclockwise and apply tension on the belt. It's very important that the tensioner pulley rotates counterclockwise or you will have issues. While holding a decent amount of tension with the pry bar, tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. Then see if the pin moves freely in and out of the hydraulic tensioner. If yes then spin the engine over 2 full rotations and see if the pin still moves in and out freely. If yes then you've correctly set proper belt tension.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the information guys.
So i pushed the tensioner pulley against the belt and torque the center bolt to 55 N.m. I also turned the camshaft two rotations to confirm and i've noticed two things:
1. The white marks I put on the timing belt moved but two camshaft marks still line up.
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2. When i rotate the camshaft, i didn't see the tensioner pulley moved at all, maybe it moved but i didn't notice or it only moves when the engine actually is running..
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I'm thinking about buying a tension gage to measure the deflection just to be safe...
 

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Only things that matter are all 3 pulleys line up with the marks after 2 rotations and that you can freely move the pin in and out of the hydraulic tensioner. That is correctly setting timing and tension.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sweet..
I will try fire her up before putting other belts back. Probably for about 5 minutes to see how she runs..
I also replaced the damaged crankshaft sensor. Hopefully, she will be good..😬😬😬😬😬
 

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Sweet..
I will try fire her up before putting other belts back. Probably for about 5 minutes to see how she runs..
I also replaced the damaged crankshaft sensor. Hopefully, she will be good..😬😬😬😬😬
Using OE sensors is critical to your 3g running correctly so if you didn't install one then you might want to while it's still apart. Also you need the balancer on before it can be started or the crank sprocket can walk outward and cause a lot of damage. And without the other accessory belts you will be running solely off battery power and the car will not run very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So i should put everything back together except for the two top timing belt covers before starting??
For the crankshaft sensor, they are range from $32.99 on amazon up to $90.42 from Mitsubishi website.
I think $90.42 is a little overprice..
 

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With the reputation of aftermarket sensors for these cars, I would stick to OEM especially considering the PITA it is to get to the crank sensor. Also, make sure you clean the trigger plate for the sensor good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yup.. The plate was dirty due to leaking oil. I clean them up nice and shiny..just putting everything back together and will start her up..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Guys,
I check the timing belt marks on these cam shafts again and they were off by 5 teeth.
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Something is wrong. I have to take the timing belt off and compress the hydraulic tensioner again.
 

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Guys,
I check the timing belt marks on these cam shafts again and they were off by 5 teeth.
View attachment 43204

Something is wrong. I have to take the timing belt off and compress the hydraulic tensioner again.
Dude, no. Check the sprocket and crank marks against the marks on the heads and engine block respectively. The marks on the belt mean nothing once you've rotated the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok so that is good.. no problem right...
What a relief! I thought i messed it up badly..😯😯😯
 

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Ok so that is good.. no problem right...
What a relief! I thought i messed it up badly..😯😯😯
I can't see the marks, but as long at the mark on the crank matches the one on the block and the marks on the cams match the marks on the heads, you're good. If they line up, rotate the crank twice and check again. If all of the marks are still good, you've successfully timed your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sweet.. Thanks Buddd.
 
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