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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have the 2.4l engine and I started hearing a noise from my hood. So I did what every troubleshooter does. I changed the ignition wires, put new spark plugs and coils. I had a engine misfire on cylinder number 1. I did a compression test on it was fine. Then I got MAF sensor for it but that didn't work. So, I decided to change my timing belt. I had the kit with a new water pump etc. I changed it and I have not gotten the code or noise ever since then. This was in a span of 6 months. Well, I've noticed the car wont start every time. So I gave it a few weeks, letting the belt wear in. nope lol. So, I got a new fuel pump. That didn't work. Then I bought a new camshaft sensor. that didn't work. I'm about to go back in my timing chamber to replace the crankshaft sensor. Remember, the car does turn on eventually and drives. Once she actually turns over. Now after 3 months the problem has gotten worst on start. I tried starting her today and she started on cold. When I turn her off and turn her back on nothing. It's very intermittent and now my rpms are kind of unstable. The reason why I'm going to try the crank sensor, is because from a cold start the rpms seem dead unless she is about to turn over. I've spoken to a lot of people from It's a bad engine to maybe It's your IAC (which tested good). I'm pulling my hair LOL. Any advice I would appreciate it greatly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I went to autozone to test all 3 and all 3 passed :-( though when it cranks its not consistent. It's hard to explain. like, you hear it crank, then it stops for a moment and then goes back to cranking. all in one turn of the key.
 

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What about the distributor assembly? Also, a faulty fuel pressure regulator can produce the symptoms you describe. If those check out, I'm out of ideas.
 

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I went to autozone to test all 3 and all 3 passed :-( though when it cranks its not consistent. It's hard to explain. like, you hear it crank, then it stops for a moment and then goes back to cranking. all in one turn of the key.
That sounds like a problem with the starter system. Your starter isn't getting enough power, or something is causing intermittent connection, or the starter is getting stuck. If the components all bench test good, it can still be the connections, wiring harness, or poor grounds.

The typical "crank, no start" is where you have a nice strong starter crank whenever you turn the key, but the engine won't catch and start up. Crank-no start can be caused by a ton of stuff from ignition system to bad AFR to incorrect timing.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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As a retired professional mechanic, my GUESS would be a bad starter relay. It is one of the small square plastic boxes in the L shaped relay box near the battery, driver's side of the engine bay. You can find it by having someone turn the key to the start position. It should click every time the starter is activated. If you pull it out [it just unplugs] it will not click, nor will the starter turn when the key is activated. Sounds like it is working intermittently. Last time I did one [maybe 15 years ago] they were $5. Happy hunting. ...J.D.
 

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Checking the relay is a good suggestion and much cheaper than the alternative. You could try swapping another relay to the starter BEFORE going to parts store, but its a good idea to have spare relays and fuses just in case anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, my mechanic (roomate) lol checked and he was able to turn it over every 4/5 times. which is real good. He said that it's probably my ignition switch or a worn out key. Also he said that my car isn't misfiring but he hears a dead injector but at least I'm out of the gutter. what doing think I should do first?
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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I still think the relay is more likely than the ignition switch, but it is your car, your money. ...J.D.
 

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Unless you've got lots of extra money to throw away on uneccesary parts, I'd start with the cheapest and easiest fix that's a plausible cause of your problem. Which is the starter relay.

Also, a failed injector is going to cause a misfire code (P030x) for the cylinder with the failed injector. Do you have such a code? If not, I'm sceptical the injector is really failed.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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My experience on my 3G, V-6 with a starter relay failure was a little different. Came out from the office one hot day [well over 100deg.]. Turned the key--NOTHING. Got a push start and drove home.. I got under the car and put a jumper across the starter solenoid. It started right away. Took the relay out of the box under the hood. Checked it with a meter. It would click every time, but there was not continuity across the load side of the relay. Contacts were apparently fried. Replaced the relay and it has been good ever since. That was maybe 15 years ago. They were about $5 at NAPA then. No doubt more expensive now, but still an inexpensive failure. ...J.D.
 

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Hope this works out well for you. Please let us know. ...J.D.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So uhhh....before i bought the starter relay i've noticed there wasn't one in my car (WTF) and i have to wait for a new one to come in.
 

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2001 Spyder GT. Koni adjustable shocks. ST sway bar.17X8.5 rims. LED headlights.
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There are a couple of empty sockets in the fuse relay box. Not all cars use all the available openings. Must be something there or it would not work at all. ...J.D.
 
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