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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got an 800 watt amp and two 12 in 1200 watt subs but i dont wanna mess with puttin an aftermarket deck in...i know it can be done, just dont know how...please help me outtt!!!
 

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If you're willing to spend on those items, you really REALLY should get an aftermarket HU to bring it all together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I picked up the amp and subs for free and had no plans to do this, a guy traded in his car into my work and they pulled em out and gave em to me...so i would like to do this cheap...if not then i will just sell it all
 

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You need a line output converter.
It ties into the two rear speakers and runs av jacks off of them very simple to install.
Hope that helps.
 

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I believe you posted this in the wrong section...but onto the issue:

I would just sell the stuff if you're not willing to do the aftermarket deck, I've always believed in doing things the right way the first time, and in my opinion the right way to do this is with an aftermarket deck.

Besides that, it doesn't really seem like you're going to have a whole lot of power going to those subs anyway, which probably won't sound very good, and who knows how much abuse those subs got...just my 2 cents though, good luck :)
 

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I think your definition of "the right way" and mine are completely different. I've got two Polk audio DB 12's running off a 1200 watt Kenwood amplifier. All of which are ran off of a line output converter and the factory head unit. I want to keep the functionality of the clock pod so I kept the original 6 disc cd changer. I've had this setup in my car for 2 years now without a single problem or loss in sound quality. I've also installed an fm modulator to gain that ability to use my ipod through the factory radio.

Now correct me if I'm wrong but I don't see my setup lacking any of the qualities or advantages of replacing the factory head unit.
 

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I think your definition of "the right way" and mine are completely different. I've got two Polk audio DB 12's running off a 1200 watt Kenwood amplifier. All of which are ran off of a line output converter and the factory head unit. I want to keep the functionality of the clock pod so I kept the original 6 disc cd changer. I've had this setup in my car for 2 years now without a single problem or loss in sound quality. I've also installed an fm modulator to gain that ability to use my ipod through the factory radio.

Now correct me if I'm wrong but I don't see my setup lacking any of the qualities or advantages of replacing the factory head unit.
:agreed:
 

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Now correct me if I'm wrong but I don't see my setup lacking any of the qualities or advantages of replacing the factory head unit.
An aftermarket HU gives you a ton more control over your sound so you could get it set up better for your car i.e. control the subs, rears, and fronts to EQ for the best quality. Also, they put out higher quality signals I believe. Basically, while you certainly have a big upgrade from the stock sound overall, you're not getting out of it what you could. It may not be a night and day difference but it's definitely noticeable.

To each their own, and obviously Chad agrees with you which I respect, we're just saying you could make it better pretty easily and not too expensively as far as car mods go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Alrightyy thanks everyone for your advise im gonna pick up an output converter and have a guy at work install it all...good to know i can have subs with keepin it "stock" thanks
 

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I think your definition of "the right way" and mine are completely different. I've got two Polk audio DB 12's running off a 1200 watt Kenwood amplifier. All of which are ran off of a line output converter and the factory head unit. I want to keep the functionality of the clock pod so I kept the original 6 disc cd changer. I've had this setup in my car for 2 years now without a single problem or loss in sound quality. I've also installed an fm modulator to gain that ability to use my ipod through the factory radio.

Now correct me if I'm wrong but I don't see my setup lacking any of the qualities or advantages of replacing the factory head unit.



It wasn't a definition, it was my opinion, like I stated. :scratch:
 

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I think your definition of "the right way" and mine are completely different. I've got two Polk audio DB 12's running off a 1200 watt Kenwood amplifier. All of which are ran off of a line output converter and the factory head unit. I want to keep the functionality of the clock pod so I kept the original 6 disc cd changer. I've had this setup in my car for 2 years now without a single problem or loss in sound quality. I've also installed an fm modulator to gain that ability to use my ipod through the factory radio.

Now correct me if I'm wrong but I don't see my setup lacking any of the qualities or advantages of replacing the factory head unit.
The only deficiency I see in my opinion is the sound quality issue. It's not the loss in sound quality, it's the gain in sound quality you'd see with a new HU. I don't know what speakers you're using for highs and mids (Stock Infinity's I'm assuming, which I am using as well), but with my aftermarket deck, I get to adjust the sound better using the 5-band EQ I have. Also, I HATE the sound quality of FM radio now after plugging my iPhone into the USB port on my HU and getting the digital sound direct from the phone. It's right there with CD quality sound, which will sound better with a new HU than the stock setup. Even the FM modulator I bought for $80 from Best Buy (which locked out the original signal from the frequency you choose and required its own fused power line) in my old setup paled in comparison with buying a new head unit when it comes to sound quality.

A new HU gives you much more clarity and volume over the stock HU, especially if you have such a powerful low end. My one 12" is running off 250W RMS and the bass overpowers the mids and highs, so with 1200W (not sure if that's RMS or not) I know your bass is drowning out your mids and highs on the stock HU/amp setup, unless your subs are in the wrong box or your gains are set low, because at half the gain my sub kills my vocals if I'm not listening very loudly.

Edit: Also forgot to mention your crossover setup/high pass filter setup. The stock HU has no HPF so the door speakers and the rear speakers are playing some of the same frequencies your sub is, which is overworking your door/rear speakers and can create a boomy low end. Plus they don't play those frequencies all that well anyway, so they should stick to the higher frequencies, they'll sound better. The stock unit can't do that unless you take all the bass out of the audio altogether. That robs the subs of their low-end signal if you're using a line out converter that's getting its signal from the speaker wires, so to compensate you have to add the bass boost on your sub amp, which only accentuates a small band of frequency. Bottom line, it won't sound its best (in my opinion).

Now if that's what you like, more power to you, I can't knock you for enjoying your setup, but in my opinion you get much better sound and easier installation from replacing the head unit. The only way I'd keep a stock head unit is if I was using a sound processor as a line out converter such as the JBL MS8 or Rockford-Fosgate 3SIXTY.2, as they have 31-band EQ's and you can tailor all of your sound to however you want it precisely.
 

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I second the above.

One of the newer technologies is Bluetooth. My ken wood would let me stream pandora through Bluetooth and the comparison from unplugged vs plugged is actually quite a lot. You may like what you have but I just think you have no idea what you're missing


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I don't mean to hijack but i have done my fair share of research on the Hi-Low Converters. Long Story short, I had my sound system in my old 2005 Eclipse, which I installed myself, I traded that in to get a new car and took out my system

Based on my research, In order to add subs (without changing the Headunit) I need to get a Hi-Low Converter (aka Line Out Converter). I haven't been able to find any that will handle the power I need for my subs. For Example, I found this one here and that one does not specify the power capacity like this one here, Which is only 80w per channel when I need almost 10x that amount.

My Equipment:
I have 2 Sundown SA-10's powered by a Audiopipe 1500w Amp. I have the speakers wired down to 1 Ohm and running 750 watts RMS. Will any Line Out Converter handle that or do I need a higher one to run them, giving they need that much power.

Thanks a bunch guys
 
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