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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am running a stage 3 sds and have an e-manage to tune with. I have 440's (rc). I recently have been noticing that my car inconsistantly wants to stall out at idle and sometimes upon accelerating from closed thottle stays lean until after I wait for about 5 seconds or play with the trottle a little bit. I thought it might be with the blow off valve (new ripp) but after cleaning found that it didn't fix it. Around idle my vac is around 19-21 in gear and 22-25 in nuetral or part (automatic). Would a failing O2 cause it? Any ideas what it could be?
 

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stupid booster
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Does its sorta feel like your engine hiccups and catches itself when coming to a stop? What PSI, whp numbers, and who tuned your car? Does this seem to happen more whenever u have been driving the car for awhile? Sometimes my car has it hiccups moments after a prolong period of driving
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am running 20 psi at max, over 300 whp,tunedat a respectable shop with e manage knowledge and experience. It stalls reguardless of temp, but only "hicups" after running awhile. Any sug? Thanks
 

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stupid booster
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well just from experience ive notice that sometimes when i start my car it idles very lean and the idle bounces some. During that start up it will "hicup" sometimes at a stop.

Other times it will start up and idle perfect and during those day it runs amazing. The days it idles funny ill turn the car off and then back on and everythings normal. I sorta feel like after awhile the ecu overides the emanage and starts to act funny
 

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similar problems in the 1g are usually related to vacume leak after the air sensor. for blow thru usually in the TB...

dunno how this affects a FI gt. but just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It very well could be. I have noticed that every once in a while the vac will vary an inch or so. I'll have to check it out. Thanks.
 

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Where are your fuel trims at? If they are far off from zero, you may need to play with the injector correction a bit more.

Is there any tension adjustment on the BOV?
 

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Time to do a boost leak check.
 

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Ah yes...
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Where are your fuel trims at? If they are far off from zero, you may need to play with the injector correction a bit more.

Is there any tension adjustment on the BOV?
Basically, the only thing is to screw the BOV in and out, but that's for venting purposes. Not really tension/ spring adjustment. For that you need a new spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How about after I posted this question up, it completely stopped doing it....really strange. I know I recently upgraded the alternator and wiring and now I'm thinking that maybe the ecu reset itself and had to relearn everything? Pretty wierd.
 

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Turbo Buick > you
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How about after I posted this question up, it completely stopped doing it....really strange. I know I recently upgraded the alternator and wiring and now I'm thinking that maybe the ecu reset itself and had to relearn everything? Pretty wierd.
Its the ecu man.... really the only way to make sure your car "sticks" to the tune is to monitor the tune and what your ecu is doing all the time.... if you ever read jbasol's thread, he mentioned how he noticed the ecu would keep trying to revert back to or near stock parameters, no matter what he adjusted in the emanage. The tune would stay for a little but, then the ecu would begin fighting with the emanage. He would have to keep readjusting the emanage to keep his tune where he wanted it.

I remember when i was running stage 2 on the stock motor with just the BB/GB for tuning. The car would run fine for awhile, then it would start hiccuping, almost stall at idle, etc. I then changed my battery (IE, disconnected and reconnected the terminals) and the car ran fine again for awhile. Put 2 and 2 together...

Unfortunetly, the best way to fix this isnt cheap. Standalone ECU and coil pack ignition. Haltech setup runs about 1600 for all the parts you need, then another grand or so in tuning the thing. I know AEM is comming out with an EMS for the evo9 that apparently works with the 3g eclipse, but that is going to be more expensive for an equivalent haltech setup. It really is like night and day switching over to a standalone with this car.
 

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BoomGoesTheDynaMitt
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Its the ecu man....
Unfortunetly, the best way to fix this isnt cheap.
I agree that it sounds like the ECU is just retuning to stock parameters. A standalone EMS would certainly prevent that but as stated its pricey.

Another option might be an 01+ ECU swap and the Tactrix ECU Flashing cable. I havent had any luck doing the swap yet but other have.

Cable & software = $100
01+ ECU/Immobilizer = $200?
Key/ECU syncing @ Mitsu = $50 or so
 

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Ah yes...
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I agree that it sounds like the ECU is just retuning to stock parameters. A standalone EMS would certainly prevent that but as stated its pricey.

Another option might be an 01+ ECU swap and the Tactrix ECU Flashing cable. I havent had any luck doing the swap yet but other have.

Cable & software = $100
01+ ECU/Immobilizer = $200?
Key/ECU syncing @ Mitsu = $50 or so
Yes, but then you need to boost the car. Since out MDP sensor only reads 1 bar -14.7-0 PSI (100-0kpa) the ECU will not understand boost. It needs a MAP sensor that can read boost. So even when you do switch over to a new ECU and reflash you will need something to really control the timing and fuel when boost is detected.
 

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stupid booster
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exactly and this is one of the best reasons why the ecu flash for the v6 owners should only be used for NA people. If i has a 4cylinder i would then switch to the evo ecu and run boost.

Boosted v6 needs a pems
modded v6 can use a piggyback or reflash
4 cylinder needs a evo ecu swap or pems
 

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Its the ecu man.... really the only way to make sure your car "sticks" to the tune is to monitor the tune and what your ecu is doing all the time.... if you ever read jbasol's thread, he mentioned how he noticed the ecu would keep trying to revert back to or near stock parameters, no matter what he adjusted in the emanage. The tune would stay for a little but, then the ecu would begin fighting with the emanage. He would have to keep readjusting the emanage to keep his tune where he wanted it.
Yes, but then when he let is fuel trims settle in at or near zero for a couple of weeks, his tune held fine. You just need to pay attention to this closed loop portion of tuning and give it time.
 

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Yes, but then you need to boost the car. Since out MDP sensor only reads 1 bar -14.7-0 PSI (100-0kpa) the ECU will not understand boost. It needs a MAP sensor that can read boost. So even when you do switch over to a new ECU and reflash you will need something to really control the timing and fuel when boost is detected.

The ECU doesn't need to direcly measure boost. DSMs and EVOs compare the actual aiflow with peak NA airflow to come up with a load percentage. Thus anything over 100 percent load = boost. That's why it would be so nice to truly be able to rescale the load axis.
 

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The ECU doesn't need to direcly measure boost. DSMs and EVOs compare the actual aiflow with peak NA airflow to come up with a load percentage. Thus anything over 100 percent load = boost. That's why it would be so nice to truly be able to rescale the load axis.
Actually the ecu takes the grams per second and adds in the factors for baro and air temp (it also uses injector size and latency in the calculation along with several undefined tables ) to get the load percentage. 100% is not the boost threshold on the evo ecu.
 

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Everyone keeps saying the ecu learns this and that I disagree completely the only thing it changes are the iac motor and the longterm fuel trims. My ecu has never learned anything I didn't program it to do.
 

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Actually the ecu takes the grams per second and adds in the factors for baro and air temp (it also uses injector size and latency in the calculation along with several undefined tables ) to get the load percentage. 100% is not the boost threshold on the evo ecu.
Your right, all those factors go into determining the actual mass of the air. How far off from 100 percent are you for the onset of boost? Does it depend on a bunch of things like gearing and throttle position?
 

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Your right, all those factors go into determining the actual mass of the air. How far off from 100 percent are you for the onset of boost? Does it depend on a bunch of things like gearing and throttle position?
Yes it does like if I'm cruising in 4th or 5th and stomp it I'll hit 2-3psi at 75-80% load.
 
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