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im planning on ordering the agx's with some springs. how hard is the install? i looked at the how-to and looks easy as can be but just wanting to double check that people have done it themselves. you'd think that suspension should be left for the real mechanics to do the but the how-to makes it looks super easy. any advice? thanks in advance
 

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I installed mine working out of my storage unit on gravel, jacking one wheel at a time with the crappy jack in the trunk since my floorjack went out on me (sorry, just had to rant about that again). It wasn't difficult at all to do, but I've also worked with suspension many times before. Here are a few pointers though:

On the rear, while you have the shock assembly out of the car is the perfect time to install a rear camber kit (if you're lowering the car as well). I did the homemade camber kit and didn't even have to take off the upper wishbone...just unbolt the four bolts that attach the pivots to the inner fender and install your new bolts with washers.

Also, I had to use a spring compressor to take all my springs off, but only had to use it to install the front springs...the S-Techs were light enough to just push down on the upper spring seat and tighten the nut. Oh, and set the dampening adjustment to "1" when installing the springs and assemblies, then adjust them to whatever you want after they'll all bolted up.

The front upper spring seat is kind of a pain to get lined up, but just pay attention to the flat suface on the strut and line it up with the corresponding side of the spring seat (you'll know what I mean when you see it)...it goes in easy once you get it line up, but you may have to just play with it a little to get it to line up.

Honestly, the hardest part for me was getting the upper nut loose on the rear shocks...I just broke down and used vice grips on the shaft of the shock piston...it messed it up, but I wasn't going to reuse them anyways...:bigthumb:
 

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It should be fairly simple, as long as it isn't rusty. I started on mine, had one bolt left, and couldn't get it off. I just took it somewhere after working on that bolt for a couple hours, and they charged 150, but anyways, you should be fine as long as there is no rust.
 

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Christopher Pearce
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I have lowered two 3Gs so far, mine being one of those two. Both times, the bottom bolts for the rear struts were gaulded. This made the removal pretty difficult. It wasn't anything that a little oxy-acetaline couldn't fix :thumbup:.

Also, both of these installs were done in your average garage with your average tools. Just take your time with it and do it right the first time.
 

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I have lowered two 3Gs so far, mine being one of those two. Both times, the bottom bolts for the rear struts were gaulded.
You have to love the rust-free south...those were just about the easiest bolts for me to get off...:bigthumb:
 

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I have lowered two 3Gs so far, mine being one of those two. Both times, the bottom bolts for the rear struts were gaulded. QUOTE]

Same for me too, after you have those of its easy. good luck
 

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Never say never!
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Yeah the big bottom bolts on the rear shock towers are a pain in the ass to get off. Mine were corroded on their so bad. That I had to take a big metal pipe and bet them off. So a word of advice. Use some grease inside the hole and on the bolt as well. Will make things a lot easier if you ever have to take them off again. Also it is also a nice enmity if you have two hydraulic jacks. That way you can lower the strut assembly and raise it. Makes it a helluva lot easier to line things up.
 

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yeah i was going to do mine myself but as soon as i stripped the bolt on that end link for the sway bar i didnt want to go any further, i ended up bringing my car to a speed shop and having them installed for 250.
 
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