Mitsubishi Eclipse 3G Club banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In this post i will be explaining how to do a carbon fiber hood reclear which can also be used to do any other carbon fiber parts where your clear coat is peeling or you are having oxidation issues as i had.


step 1:

you will need to clean the entire hood. you do not want to be sanding your cf hood with any contaminates on it or you will just keep cross contaminating the hood as you sand. i used duplicolor wax and grease remover.


step 2:

now you are ready to sand. i started out with a 320 circular plam sander to remove all the old clear coat quicker. if you go this route you need to be careful not to go to far and remove the gelcoat below the clear and hit the carbon fiber. doing that will leave imperfections in the carbon fiber.

step 3: now that you have removed the clear coat you will need to put the palm sander aside and grab a flexible sanding block and a 400 grit wetsand paper, a bucket of soapy water or sprayer with soapy water. now you will be sanding all the 320 grit scratches out of the gelcoat. you will need to make the whole hood change to a 400 grit surface finish. take your time and it shouldnt take to long to get this done.


step 4:

now that you have started wetsanding you will continue to wetsand to 600, 800, 1000, and finally 1200. 1200 grit is a perfect finish for the new clear coat to adhere to anything above 1500 it will have a tough time sticking too.
this is what it should look like. take note in this photo the hood is wet still and has been wetsanded to 1200 grit.


step 5: now you are almost ready to start spraying clear coat. but first you have to once again clean it with that duplicolor wax and grease remover or something equal.


step 6.

now you are going to spray make sure you wear protective gear and have a "clean" room or spray booth to do the spraying in. you will need to buy a automotive clear that has uv protection. this is the clear and activator i used.



step 7:

now once you have mixed the appropriate amount of each and put the clear in your gun you will need to make sure you have a nice even fog coming out of your gun. make sure its not shooting drops or it will come out bad. i did 1 light coat and 2 more heavy coats. the clear and activator i used required 15 minutes in between coats. be sure to follow your clear and activators directions.



step 8:

now after letting it dry you will want to wetsand again but this time with 3000 grit. this is important because you are now removing any orange peeling or contaminates that cause raised spots in the dried clear. make sure it is all done evenly so you dont have and weird warped spots.

step 9:

now your going to have to cut, buff and polish the clear. this step will get rid of all those 3000 grit sanding scratches you put in the clear and make it not shine but gleam at you. i went and bought a buffer off a detailing friend and used some of his cutting, buffing, and polishing compound. you may want to have a professional do this part. after you wait 30 days be sure to clean the hood and get it sealed. the reason you dont seal it right after you cut, buff, and polish is because the clear coat is still fuming off and may crack your newly cleared hood if you seal it before its done fuming off. here is the finished product.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,553 Posts
Is there a time where your hood is no longer salvageable? I feel like mine may already be there but im not 100% sure.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top