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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello forum,

After searching the web RIGOROUSLY I have had no help on how-to change the automatic transmission fluid on my 2001 Eclipse RS with almost 160K miles. :facepalm: Car is AUTOMATIC TRANS.
I have looked into the stratus, lancer, and galant forums for a solution on how to change the fluid.

I AM NOT FLUSHING THE TRANSMISSION!!! The car has been serviced regularly by mitsubishi dealers. The first/last time it was changed was at 130k miles. I simply need to perform regular maintainence since the car has hit 30k miles. The time to change it.

I will use Diamond SP3 for the change. I have posted pics below of the transmission. Maybe someone can identify the drain hole for this. The pan sits upwards which is something I haven't seen in a car. :scratch:

There is no filter to be changed since it is supposebly inside the transmission itself.





The top is the old/current ATF.
Bottom is what new diamond SP3 looks like.





Tran lines running to radiator



Bolt to the right say LF (left front I guess?)
Bolt to the left says 2nd. IDK what that means.
Middle bolt is blank and indicates nothing




So any ideas or responses/solutions would definitley help. :wavey:

One idea i have seen from a Hyundai forum is to simpply drain it by putting the car into N and running it for not even a minute so the fluid will come out.
Not sure if its safe. I don't want my trans to have no fluid even though it was just runned equaling heat is still in there. :squint:
 

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Drain plug is behind the plastic cover in driver side wheel well as mentioned. You can only get about 3 quarts out of 8 draining it there. Just have to keep topping it off and draining probably take quite a while considering how dark your fluid is.

It would be faster to use the FSM flush method as it uses the trans pump to flush itself so there's really no more danger of gumming up your valve body than normal driving would cause. Basically just drain from plug, fill, pull tranny cooler line on radiator cap side, run for about a minute, reinstall cooler line, top off, and keep repeating until satisfied.

The small 10mm bolts under the tranny are Second brake pressure port = 2nd, Underdrive clutch pressure port = UD, and Low-reverse brake pressure port = LR. If you drained those then might want to check that they are not leaking once the car gets up to temp they have very small o-rings on them.

And the filter is indeed inside the trans so you can't swap it out without taking it apart. Might be surprised at how dirty it is if you ever take it apart though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
:wub:
Drain plug is behind the plastic cover in driver side wheel well as mentioned. You can only get about 3 quarts out of 8 draining it there. Just have to keep topping it off and draining probably take quite a while considering how dark your fluid is.

It would be faster to use the FSM flush method as it uses the trans pump to flush itself so there's really no more danger of gumming up your valve body than normal driving would cause. Basically just drain from plug, fill, pull tranny cooler line on radiator cap side, run for about a minute, reinstall cooler line, top off, and keep repeating until satisfied.

The small 10mm bolts under the tranny are Second brake pressure port = 2nd, Underdrive clutch pressure port = UD, and Low-reverse brake pressure port = LR. If you drained those then might want to check that they are not leaking once the car gets up to temp they have very small o-rings on them.

And the filter is indeed inside the trans so you can't swap it out without taking it apart. Might be surprised at how dirty it is if you ever take it apart though.


Thanks everone for the responses. Much appreciated. :wub:

Wanted A GT, what I don't understand is this FSM flush method. Did a google search and found nothing as to what it is. Everything else you've written is gold, but maybe some explaining on this FSM flush method could clear everything else up. Much thanks
 

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Haynes repair manual gives a good picture guide of this method. Be sure to have a funnel into the catch pan as the fluid comes out under pressure and will get everywhere if your not ready for it.
 

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Bitter said:
hector117 said:
Hey Bitter, you think I should flush the tranny completely or just the 4/5 quarts it has?
I would do a home flush with 12+2 quarts of Redline D4. It's going to run about $120 for fluid but it's worth it I think. Home flush would be pulling the cooler lines off, putting them both in gallon jugs, figure which is in and which is out, one goes in empty jug and one in jug of new fluid. Have a friend start and idle the car for you (after you've warmed it up). Once the new fluid is empty or the old fluid is full shut the car off. Hook the lines up, start and idle it, check the fluid level. Top if needed, take it for a spin through all gears, then repeat with the second gallon of fluid.

12+2 means You should buy 2 gallons (4qts each) for the flush and then get a 3rd gallon or 4 1qt bottles for top off and filling up. I bought 2 gallons to use with the flush machine at work but needed about 4qts more than that to get the fluid totally clean and new. Trans shifts better to be honest, I changed fluid around 90K and it had been changed at 60K. New fluid got it shifting more consistently and a little faster at redline. I also added a tiny does of seal swell oil before changing it out, so that may have helped a little too. Seals dry and get soft. Leaving seal swell in can cause problems, I add some let it stay in for a few weeks, then flush with new fluid that has conditioners. Seal swell is a little misleading, its a polyester or ester or pag or some kind of oil that is absorbed by rubber and softens it back up to a new like condition, New trans fluid has fresh seal conditioners in it which will keep that rejuvenated seal in its now supple state for a good long while without the seal sweller present.

I wrote that for a Celica, but same general process. I bet you can even use the same fluid!
Yep, D4 is SP3 compatible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I wrote that for a Celica, but same general process. I bet you can even use the same fluid!
Yep, D4 is SP3 compatible.
The home flush procedure as you posted might not work since I believe the transmission cooling system is closed loop, meaning, it only pushes old heated fluid through. It does not get sucked.
:scratch:

Placing two jugs is ineffective since there is no way for the new fluid to be entered into the transmission without maybe an outside source to push it into.

I may be wrong though. :dunno:

Heres a picture of what the closed system looks similar too. Not the 3g tranny, but just a rough idea of what is going on.


 

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Haynes repair manual gives a good picture guide of this method. Be sure to have a funnel into the catch pan as the fluid comes out under pressure and will get everywhere if your not ready for it.
I checked my Haynes too yesterday and was surprised it mentioned a DIY-flush. I'm also surprised it didn't mention filter replacement at all. I'd think you'd want to pop the side cover and change the filter anyway (and wouldn't you get more fluid out, like a GM trans?).

The home flush procedure as you posted might not work since I believe the transmission cooling system is closed loop, meaning, it only pushes old heated fluid through. It does not get sucked.[/IMG]
Yup from what I saw it's similar to the GM's I'm used to, the trans fluid pump pushes the fluid to the cooler, and the return just dumps back into the pan. So like Bitter said, you'd just pour new fluid in to the fill tube as the old fluid gets dumped out (lose a quart, pour a quart in). Might want to see if you could bump the starter with CPS unplugged instead of actually starting the motor. Running a trans pump dry isn't good.
 

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I thought about popping the side cover off but everything I have read has mentioned the filter is inside the trans and is not easily replaceable. I Just did the Haynes procedure till fresh bright ass red fluid was coming out, then topped it off. I used 2 gallons to flush and fill it.
 

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All the service manuals are still hosted on tearstone.com. Right at the top. lol im too lazy to paste it here.

I'd recommend using genuine mitsu fluid or at least cycling that in after you use the cheap stuff to flush out the dirty fluid. Little more expensive but it lasts way longer than any of the off the shelf comparable fluids from my own experience. I'm going to try amsoils trans fluid when i get mine back so see how that goes.

You can't change the filter without taking the whole thing apart. I think the V6 has an external filter you can change but not the 4cyl. Don't try to take it apart yourself either it is not a diy thing at all. During a rebuild is only time it's worth the effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All the service manuals are still hosted on tearstone.com. Right at the top. lol im too lazy to paste it here.

I'd recommend using genuine mitsu fluid or at least cycling that in after you use the cheap stuff to flush out the dirty fluid. Little more expensive but it lasts way longer than any of the off the shelf comparable fluids from my own experience. I'm going to try amsoils trans fluid when i get mine back so see how that goes.

You can't change the filter without taking the whole thing apart. I think the V6 has an external filter you can change but not the 4cyl. Don't try to take it apart yourself either it is not a diy thing at all. During a rebuild is only time it's worth the effort.

What type of "cheap stuff" do you use to flush out the dirty fluid. Obviously using SP3 is quite expensive.


Something like Castrol, Amsoil, or mobile 1 is what comes to mind here :scratch:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am just going to go with a drain and fill. I understand that I will only be getting 3 out of the 8 quarts from the system, but hell, I have always done this on all my other cars (besides removing filter) and have had no issues.

If anything I will write a post up.
 
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