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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This thread features a picture described way to "tuck the wires in the engine bay". Let me know if you see any flaws or have anything to add or suggest to improve this thread.

Supplies Used:
-3/16th Vacuum line (about 5ft)
-5/16th Vacuum line (about 3ft)
-Black Electrical tape
-Black Zip ties
-T-fittings for 3/16 vac line (1)

I suggest you preform this task during the hours that a hardware store/auto parts store is open, because you will likely have to get more supplies.

Tools needed:
-Wrench/Ratchet set
-At least two screw drivers or probes of the same length as a screwdriver
-Two pairs of Pillars, Vis-grips, etc

Basic tool set would be preferred, there really isn't any specialty tools you need, unless someone notes otherwise.

NOTE: You will loose your cruise control (CC) by preforming this how-to, UNLESS you buy an extra 2-3ft of 3/16 vacuum line, fuel injection line will NOT work.

First off, here is what a cali-spec engine bay looks like:

Personally, I don't care for all of the wires all over the place, and being that they are like that, it actually takes longer to take off/put on parts that those wires cover. Although it does take longer take access those wires and items that are hidden and sometimes can be a real pain in the ass, so before you attempt anything decide what you want.


*If you are having cooling problems I suggest you skip this step until you fix it*

We are going to move your coolant over flow take underneath the headlight. Remove your passenger side headlight, remove the hose that connects the the bottle, use pillars if needed, and place tank in the "pocket" that is in between your turn signal and the other half of the frame.

The pocket looks like this:

Take a zip tie and tie it around the little hole on the tank to ensure that it won't go anywhere. Reconnect the hose by threading it through one of the holes from your radiator to your newly relocated coolant tank. Make sure it isn't touching any wires for which it will ground them out, place the overflow hose (the thick one) down towards the ground.

It should look like this:


We are now going to move the alternator wire and separate your fuel injector wires from the rest of the cluster that is contained in the black bracket that goes across the top your valve cover.

Remove the wire that goes across the top of the front valve cover, from your alternator to your wire cluster, this part of this step doesn't apply to fed spec cars, for which that wire is already displaced. Take it and route it down and zip tie it to whatever support is down there, make sure it is not hitting your radiator fans. You will need to cut the plastic "ties" from the alternator wire.

(I will get a pic and update it tomorrow when there is light)

Next you want to take the black bracket that covers your fuel injector (FI) wires, and a few other things off, you will need to take scissors to it. Once you have removed it you will see a cluster of various colored wires, sort through the wires and separate the FI wires from the rest of the cluster, wrap these wires in black electrical tape and keep them separated from the rest of the wires for which we will be moving those later.

(Pic unavailable)


In this step will be taking your throttle body cable (TB cable) and moving it to the top of the valve cover.

First take the TB cable off from the bracket that is held by one the valve cover. You will now need to remove the bracket that holds the actual cable to the bracket on the valve cover, it just clips off. Now take that bracket to a table screw clamp or you can take two pairs of pillars/vis-grips and bend the bottom right side of the bracket, be sure that you don't bend the hole where the bolt goes through.

Now take the top left bolt out of the valve cover, and make sure that the cable fits and so does the bracket that you just modified before you put the valve cover bolt back in, some adjustments could be made, if you can't get it to work you can just bend it back to normal and skip this step.

When you are done it should looks like this:


In this step we are going to be moving all of the connections/solenoids that are on the side of the plenum. This is one of the more complicated steps, so read carefully.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal (-), I've heard of people blowing fuses when unplugging the solenoids and etc, I've never done it but it is a good precaution. Remove your intake from the throttle body, and place it off to the side. Now unplug all off the sensors and such that is on the side of the plenum. Go ahead and remove the vac lines that are attached to those solenoids, move them off to the side temporarily. Now unbolt all of the plugs and move them to the other side of the plenum, if you have properly sorted through the FI wires back in step 2 you will easily be able to do this.

There will be one wire that you won't be able to move over and that is your knock sensor, the sensor is located in the bock and should be left alone, but you can take two screwdrivers or probes and move the wire from the lower intake manifold all the way over to the drivers side of the engine bay, this is the biggest pain in the ass in this how-to, make sure you do not loose the wire, and don't be shocked that this simple task takes the longest.

Now route all of the wires that you have just moved to the drivers side of the engine bay and cover the exposed wires in black electrical tape, they will reach all of the way to the back, and I suggest you keep them there, reconnect all of the plugs, all of the plugs are color coded and have different shapes, you will have two plugs left over, one is for your EGR solenoid (reddish brown) and the other is a black plug for the other solenoid.

Once you have reconnected the plugs and moved everything over the side of your plenum should be bare, like this:


In this step we are going to reconnect all of the vac lines and such. Make sure you follow the diagram posted on the hood of your car, you will need to interpret the diagram for which the position of the solenoids has changed.

You are likely to cut of the back of your hands in this step so working gloves is recommended. So then take your solenoids and connect them to the appropriate vac lines, measure and cut the vac lines to the right length and make sure you follow the diagram on your hood.

You are going to put all of it on the back of the plenum, make sure you zip tie everything tight, to where none of it will touch the rear header or else it will melt, trust me.

The back of your plenum should look like this:

Now later I realized that it would look a lot better and be a lot easier to fabricate a bracket for all of those sensors. Trust me, you cut the time it takes to remove your plenum in half by making a bracket and I highly suggest it!

Here is what I did:

NOTE: Do not bolt the other half to where the EGR tube thingy connects to the back, the bracket should work fine with the stock GT plenum, the one pictured is the diamante plenum just so you know. ;)

Your end result (plus a few extra goodies) should look like this:

A big thanks to Tx4codeman for which he helped me doing my own.

Here are a few shots of a couple of members that have done the tuck:


boostzealot: (FULL TUCK)

PM me if you have completed this How-to and I will update my post with your shot! And don't be afraid to leave feedback!

2011's are gay
4,791 Posts
may i suggest wrapping the injector wires around the injector so they are hidden behind the fuel rail, it works better if you upgrade to diamante or 3kgt rails, but if you do 3kgt rails then you will need a fuel loop from the diamante, unless you make a custom one.

i'll probably take some 3/16 vac line and slice it open and use it to cover the wires more to help it blend in
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