now, as i had to do, get the suspension professionaly tuned, whether for track/race or street, its necessary!
kept chewing up the front tires!
kept chewing up the front tires!
HOW TO: INSTALL MEGAN RACING COILOVER SUSPENSION
12
HOW TO: INSTALL MEGAN RACING COILOVER SUSPENSION
Model: GTS, GT, GS, RS
***Pictures Are From an Installed Suspension! However everything is the same on the stock suspension.***
Tools Needed:
Mechanics Toolset Preferably
14mm Shallow & Deep Socket
17mm Shallow & Deep Socket
18mm Shallow & Deep Socket
24mm Shallow & Deep Socket
3/8th & ½ Driver Extensions
3/8th & ½ Ratchets
Breaker Bar 18” or Piece of Metal Pipe
Set of Allen Wrenches (Metric)
Pair of Vice Grips
WD40, etc… loosening agent
Four 2 1/4th Jack Stands
Floor Jack
Dremel with Cutting Attachment or Hacksaw
Ruler or Measuring Tape
Parts Needed:
Set of Megan Racing Coilovers
Front Endlinks
Rear Camber Kit
Front Camber Kit (Optional)
***Ingalls & Eibach manufacture both, getting the most adjustable kit is optimal +/- 3 D
Degrees***
Supporting the Car & Jacking
1.) Loosen all of the lug nuts on all four wheels. Using a breaker bar/pipe for leverage makes this a lot easier.
2.) Jack the Car in all for corners in the proper jacking positions (Check Car Manual for proper positions), place a jackstand under each corner until car is supported on all 4 jackstands.
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***NEVER SUPPORT THE CAR WITH JUST A JACK WHEN WORKING UNDER THE CAR!!!***
3.) Remove the loosened lug nuts then remove the wheels and put them aside.
![]()
Removing Rear Suspension
1.) Place Jack under rear control arms/ spindle for support.
![]()
Picture is from front, same thing applies.
2.) Loosen the 17mm Bolt holding the strut into place, located on the rear of the spindle.
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3.) Remove the 2x 14mm nuts that hold the strut in place, might have to remove the small panel to gain access.
![]()
4.) Gently lower your jack, until the strut slides down.
5.) Remove the previous 17mm bolt you loosened.
6.) Remove strut assembly. Sometimes the strut rusts on, spraying with WD40/PB Blaster may help, other wise cutting maybe require on the ring.
Preparing Rear Megan Racing Coilovers for Installation
1.) Measure the uncompressed spring of the rear coilover make sure the spring is not compressed in any manner. The measurement should be 180mm or 18cm. If its not, please make an adjustment to that specification.
2.) Make a note of each coilover and the height of the spring, uncompressed.
3.) Set the height in between the bottom locking ring and ring before the very top ring to be 3 inches.
***This will not be your final ride height, this is just for installation at the moment.***
Installing Rear Coilover
1.) Gently lube the spindle where the strut slides into.
2.) Slide coilover on spindle, then use your jack to raise your suspension, until the top plate of coilover is flat with the cars body.
3.) Gently screw on the two 14mm nuts, do not tighten them.
4.) Screw in the 17mm bolt and tighten.
5.) Lower you jack from the suspension.
6.) Repeat other side.
Removing Front Struts
1.) Place jack under the front suspension, jack the stock suspension slightly until its firm and wont move.
![]()
2.) Remove the stock endlinks. Spray with PB Blaster to loosen the rust. Allen wrench on the bolt end and a 14mm socket on the nut. If this doesn't work. Hacksaw or Dremel the Endlink in the middle. Then using your hand, use break the endlinks at the ball joint, by either pulling or pushing on the cut rod end. This should break off the end of the endlink that's on the ball joint. Now you can use your vice grips and put them on the ball joint end. Take your 14mm socket and a breaker bar and loosen the nut. This should work everytime.
![]()
3.) Time to remove the big bolts, can't miss them. They go through the strut assembly and spindle. There should be two bolts 18mm is the top one. 24mm is the bottom one. Put the shallow 18mm socket on the bolt head end, then put the deep 18mm socket on the nut end, make sure you are using a breaker bar or a breaker bar and a extension on it to make your life easier. Take 18mm bolt out. Keep the 24mm bolt in place.
![]()
4.) Now take a look at the top of the strut there will be three 14mm nuts holding in place. Take those off.
![]()
14mm Nuts-Look gold in the photo
5.) Lower your jack down a little bit, the spindle end should glide down a little bit along with the strut assembly. Now remove the 24mm bolt and remove the entire strut assembly.
6.) Keep your jack in place.
Preparing Front Megan Racing Coilovers for Installation
1.) Measure the uncompressed spring of the rear coilover make sure the spring is not compressed in any manner. The measurement should be 180mm or 18cm. If its not, please make an adjustment to that specification.
2.) Make a note of each coilover and the height of the spring, uncompressed.
3.) Set the height in between the bottom locking ring and ring before the very top ring to be 3 inches.
***This will not be your final ride height, this is just for installation at the moment.***
Installing Front Coilovers
1.) Make sure you still have jack under the suspension.
2.) Slide in the Megan racing coilovers onto the spindle.
3.) Install the 18mm and 24mm bolt and nut. Handtighten, if you tighten them now, making adjustments will be difficult.
4.) Install and bolt into place the endlinks.
5.) Now slowly adjust the bolts on the top plate to the car chassis holes. Slowly start to jack the suspension into place.
6.) Once it is in place, handtighten the 14mm nuts on the studs.
7.) Replace the wheels, and put on two lug nuts to hold wheel in place, tighten lightly. Lower the jack down.
***Now the suspension is installed, time for making final adjustments.***
Measuring Pre-Load
1.) Lower the car off the jacks. Now your car will settle down. The springs were uncompressed, now since the car is on the ground the springs have compressed. This is called preload.
2.) Since you set your suspension higher, at the install you should have enough handroom to take these measurements. Best way I found out is to take a metal/wooden ruler, and measure the springs this way. You will be measuring the from the top of the plate plate on the rears and front the top of the spring plate on the fronts. Be sure to record these numbers.
3.) Once you measured the preload on your car. Time to raise it up again. However this time I recommend.you raise one side of the car and support it with jackstands.
Formula = Uncomprssed Spring 180mm - Compressed Spring XXXmm = Pre-Loaded Spring
I.E. 180mm - 149mm = 31mm or 3.1cm
Adjusting Pre-Load
1.) Remove your wheels.
2.) Now with the supplied ring wrenches time to make the adjustment.
***This step is a real pain in the ass to do it with just the rings and wrench, it would be a good idea to get some spring compressors to make your job a lot easier***
3.) Now before turning anything. Spray all the rings and threads with WD40 or other lubricating spray.
4.) Now loosen the bottom ring from the top one. Now to make the adjustment for preload you have to spin the top ring until you reach the amount of preload needed. This is going to get much harder once the spring gets more compressed.
5.) Once you reach the proper preload tighten the bottom ring from the top So the spring is secured.
6.) Now Measure the distance from the top of the bottom ring to the bottom of the secondary top ring. Record this measure ment. It will be need to adjust the ride height.
7.) Repeat for the rear and other side.
Adjusting Ride Height
1.) With the measurements in hand you are ready to make final ride height adjustments.
2.) Put a jack under the suspension again. Lightly tighten it so it firmly in place. Applies same for rear.
3.) For the front loosen the 14mm bolts on top. Applies same for rear.
4.) Now lower your jack slowly and this will lower down your entire suspension down on that side.
5.) Loosen the bottom lock ring and then measure the distance you want to lower by moving the lock ring up, then spring the rest of the coil over until you hit the desired height. Now tighten the bottom locking ring.
6.) Align the studs and chassis holes again and jack you suspension into place.
7.) Repeat for rear and other side.
8.) This will take a few tries before you get it perfect and its a real pain in the ass to do it. This is where drinking beer is helpful aswell as some tunes. :buddies: :hbang:
Final Product
![]()
![]()
![]()
If anyone has more pictures or better pictures feel free to PM or Email them to me.
Model: GTS, GT, GS, RS
***Pictures Are From an Installed Suspension! However everything is the same on the stock suspension.***
Tools Needed:
Mechanics Toolset Preferably
14mm Shallow & Deep Socket
17mm Shallow & Deep Socket
18mm Shallow & Deep Socket
24mm Shallow & Deep Socket
3/8th & ½ Driver Extensions
3/8th & ½ Ratchets
Breaker Bar 18” or Piece of Metal Pipe
Set of Allen Wrenches (Metric)
Pair of Vice Grips
WD40, etc… loosening agent
Four 2 1/4th Jack Stands
Floor Jack
Dremel with Cutting Attachment or Hacksaw
Ruler or Measuring Tape
Parts Needed:
Set of Megan Racing Coilovers
Front Endlinks
Rear Camber Kit
Front Camber Kit (Optional)
***Ingalls & Eibach manufacture both, getting the most adjustable kit is optimal +/- 3 D
Degrees***
Supporting the Car & Jacking
1.) Loosen all of the lug nuts on all four wheels. Using a breaker bar/pipe for leverage makes this a lot easier.
2.) Jack the Car in all for corners in the proper jacking positions (Check Car Manual for proper positions), place a jackstand under each corner until car is supported on all 4 jackstands.
***NEVER SUPPORT THE CAR WITH JUST A JACK WHEN WORKING UNDER THE CAR!!!***
3.) Remove the loosened lug nuts then remove the wheels and put them aside.
Removing Rear Suspension
1.) Place Jack under rear control arms/ spindle for support.
Picture is from front, same thing applies.
2.) Loosen the 17mm Bolt holding the strut into place, located on the rear of the spindle.
3.) Remove the 2x 14mm nuts that hold the strut in place, might have to remove the small panel to gain access.
4.) Gently lower your jack, until the strut slides down.
5.) Remove the previous 17mm bolt you loosened.
6.) Remove strut assembly. Sometimes the strut rusts on, spraying with WD40/PB Blaster may help, other wise cutting maybe require on the ring.
Preparing Rear Megan Racing Coilovers for Installation
1.) Measure the uncompressed spring of the rear coilover make sure the spring is not compressed in any manner. The measurement should be 180mm or 18cm. If its not, please make an adjustment to that specification.
2.) Make a note of each coilover and the height of the spring, uncompressed.
3.) Set the height in between the bottom locking ring and ring before the very top ring to be 3 inches.
***This will not be your final ride height, this is just for installation at the moment.***
Installing Rear Coilover
1.) Gently lube the spindle where the strut slides into.
2.) Slide coilover on spindle, then use your jack to raise your suspension, until the top plate of coilover is flat with the cars body.
3.) Gently screw on the two 14mm nuts, do not tighten them.
4.) Screw in the 17mm bolt and tighten.
5.) Lower you jack from the suspension.
6.) Repeat other side.
Removing Front Struts
1.) Place jack under the front suspension, jack the stock suspension slightly until its firm and wont move.
2.) Remove the stock endlinks. Spray with PB Blaster to loosen the rust. Allen wrench on the bolt end and a 14mm socket on the nut. If this doesn't work. Hacksaw or Dremel the Endlink in the middle. Then using your hand, use break the endlinks at the ball joint, by either pulling or pushing on the cut rod end. This should break off the end of the endlink that's on the ball joint. Now you can use your vice grips and put them on the ball joint end. Take your 14mm socket and a breaker bar and loosen the nut. This should work everytime.
3.) Time to remove the big bolts, can't miss them. They go through the strut assembly and spindle. There should be two bolts 18mm is the top one. 24mm is the bottom one. Put the shallow 18mm socket on the bolt head end, then put the deep 18mm socket on the nut end, make sure you are using a breaker bar or a breaker bar and a extension on it to make your life easier. Take 18mm bolt out. Keep the 24mm bolt in place.
4.) Now take a look at the top of the strut there will be three 14mm nuts holding in place. Take those off.
14mm Nuts-Look gold in the photo
5.) Lower your jack down a little bit, the spindle end should glide down a little bit along with the strut assembly. Now remove the 24mm bolt and remove the entire strut assembly.
6.) Keep your jack in place.
Preparing Front Megan Racing Coilovers for Installation
1.) Measure the uncompressed spring of the rear coilover make sure the spring is not compressed in any manner. The measurement should be 180mm or 18cm. If its not, please make an adjustment to that specification.
2.) Make a note of each coilover and the height of the spring, uncompressed.
3.) Set the height in between the bottom locking ring and ring before the very top ring to be 3 inches.
***This will not be your final ride height, this is just for installation at the moment.***
Installing Front Coilovers
1.) Make sure you still have jack under the suspension.
2.) Slide in the Megan racing coilovers onto the spindle.
3.) Install the 18mm and 24mm bolt and nut. Handtighten, if you tighten them now, making adjustments will be difficult.
4.) Install and bolt into place the endlinks.
5.) Now slowly adjust the bolts on the top plate to the car chassis holes. Slowly start to jack the suspension into place.
6.) Once it is in place, handtighten the 14mm nuts on the studs.
7.) Replace the wheels, and put on two lug nuts to hold wheel in place, tighten lightly. Lower the jack down.
***Now the suspension is installed, time for making final adjustments.***
Measuring Pre-Load
1.) Lower the car off the jacks. Now your car will settle down. The springs were uncompressed, now since the car is on the ground the springs have compressed. This is called preload.
2.) Since you set your suspension higher, at the install you should have enough handroom to take these measurements. Best way I found out is to take a metal/wooden ruler, and measure the springs this way. You will be measuring the from the top of the plate plate on the rears and front the top of the spring plate on the fronts. Be sure to record these numbers.
3.) Once you measured the preload on your car. Time to raise it up again. However this time I recommend.you raise one side of the car and support it with jackstands.
Formula = Uncomprssed Spring 180mm - Compressed Spring XXXmm = Pre-Loaded Spring
I.E. 180mm - 149mm = 31mm or 3.1cm
Adjusting Pre-Load
1.) Remove your wheels.
2.) Now with the supplied ring wrenches time to make the adjustment.
***This step is a real pain in the ass to do it with just the rings and wrench, it would be a good idea to get some spring compressors to make your job a lot easier***
3.) Now before turning anything. Spray all the rings and threads with WD40 or other lubricating spray.
4.) Now loosen the bottom ring from the top one. Now to make the adjustment for preload you have to spin the top ring until you reach the amount of preload needed. This is going to get much harder once the spring gets more compressed.
5.) Once you reach the proper preload tighten the bottom ring from the top So the spring is secured.
6.) Now Measure the distance from the top of the bottom ring to the bottom of the secondary top ring. Record this measure ment. It will be need to adjust the ride height.
7.) Repeat for the rear and other side.
Adjusting Ride Height
1.) With the measurements in hand you are ready to make final ride height adjustments.
2.) Put a jack under the suspension again. Lightly tighten it so it firmly in place. Applies same for rear.
3.) For the front loosen the 14mm bolts on top. Applies same for rear.
4.) Now lower your jack slowly and this will lower down your entire suspension down on that side.
5.) Loosen the bottom lock ring and then measure the distance you want to lower by moving the lock ring up, then spring the rest of the coil over until you hit the desired height. Now tighten the bottom locking ring.
6.) Align the studs and chassis holes again and jack you suspension into place.
7.) Repeat for rear and other side.
8.) This will take a few tries before you get it perfect and its a real pain in the ass to do it. This is where drinking beer is helpful aswell as some tunes. :buddies: :hbang:
Final Product
If anyone has more pictures or better pictures feel free to PM or Email them to me.
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1 - 1 of 2 Posts
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