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2.4LR16VDOHCAWDTURBO
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
In this "How to" I'll be showing you how to swap out your OEM cloth seats for the OEM leather seats from the GTS. This is going to be RS specific since I have an RS and there are a few differences that will need to be pointed out during the install. If you have a GS, this conversion will be a direct bolt swap for you; however, you'll still have to follow the wire-up. If you have a GT model, this conversion will be a direct bolt swap and wire swap, so you can ignore this altogether. I'll apologize in advance for some bad pictures, these were all taken with an iPhone.

So let's get started. You obviously need the OEM leather seats AND the wire harness for the power control!



This is a bad picture but it shows what I mean. On the right side of the picture you can see the harness to the power control, while the open plug on the left is the seatbelt signal. We must wire the power harness up in our car.



We also need this guy: Part number MR414349. It's name is somewhat of a misnomer as it's called a "Right Rear Seat Bracket". It actually sits in the middle and it is what the bifold seat centers bolt to. It's $14.39 from the dealer. You'll also need two short M8x1.25 bolts which you can get from any hardware store.





Now you're ready to get into it.

It's easier if you start by removing the passenger side seat. There are two 14mm nuts in the front and two 14mm bolts in the rear. Undo both of those.







You'll be left with these, DO NOT LOSE THEM.



Now you can remove the passenger seat. Since the fronts sit down on studs, it's easy to remove if you just lie your hand on the headrest and push backwards towards the hatch to tip the seat backwards like so.



Pick it up from the front and remove it. This is the seat removed.



Perfect time for a vacuum :lol:



Next we can move to the rear seats. First take a hold of your seatbelt buckles and wedge them down into the slits in the bottom seat. Do not shove them in there because you will rip the foam, just kind of wiggle them down in so that they are easy to push through when we lift the actual seat.



Now pull up on the rings located on both sides of the bottom seat. Pull them gently because they're only plastic clips. Lift up slightly as you pull each one, then your bottom seat should be free.



Now you can push your seat belt buckles all the way through. Lift the bottom seat out towards you at a 45* angle and it will slide right out. Make sure you angle it otherwise you'll bend the metal tabs that slide underneath the seat back. You should see this. Mine was filthy underneath so I cleaned it up with some Mean Green.

The square plate is your fuel pump assembly lid.





To remove the seat back, there are two 12mm bolts on both sides of the seat back. Remove one, hold it up and remove the other one with your other hand. The seat should now be free.



You should have this now. If you don't, you don't have an RS, or it has previously had its seats swapped.



Now we need to do some test fitting. Take one half of your split seats, latch the seat onto the striker on the car and bolt the bottom bolt. Just reuse one of your bolts from your bench seat, since you should have already bought the two new 8mm x1.25 bolts.



Now take that seat brace I showed earlier, and put it down in the center of your car. You should have a pretty good idea of where it should go, and your factory sound deadening should help you align it. Mine had the upper left and lower right corner aligned so I just stuck it on there. Test fit the seat back by lining up the bolt hole. You can bolt it in and test the folding if you want, I did just to make sure it didn't go up or down crooked.





Once you are sure it is where you want it/where it works, hold it down and place a self tapping screw in one or two corners. DO NOT do all four yet.





Now test fit your other seat. Check the folding of them separately and simultaneously and make sure they don't rub. If they rub one or both of them is folding crooked and you will need to adjust your seat brace. That's why I said don't screw all four corners in. Once you're happy with it, screw all four corners fast and use your two new 8mm bolts to bolt the seats to the center. You should have kept your two outer bolts to bolt the outsides of the seats.



Notice mine were a little bit crooked even after adjusting the bracket. I fixed this with a couple of washers under the left side center seat bolt bracket.



Now you can slide the bottom seat under the seat backs, but make sure you wedge your seat belt buckles back out of the slits in the seat. Then just push down on the left and right sides to clip the strikers into the clips.

When you're done adjusting it should look like this:







Now, I am currently undergoing my turbo build, and as such I was storing my tools and parts on my passenger front side of my car, so I haven't put that seat back in yet. However, the passenger seat is two bolts and two nuts, just the reversal of how we removed the passenger's side seat. Therefore, you should be able to do it without following a how to :p

So I moved onto the driver's side seat. You will need all the following:



ESPECIALLY this guy for a nice clean look, an ATM Add-A-Fuse:



Normally I would recommend soldering the connections, but my solder pen was broken and I had a metric ton of connectors so I figured I'd use them up.

First look under your driver's side seat. You should see a connector. This is the seatbelt signal, which tells your car when you're wearing your seatbelt and when you aren't. It toggles the seatbelt icon on the gauge cluster. Unplug it.



Removal of the driver's side seat from here is identical to the passenger's side. It should look like this when you're done.



Alright now here is where hopefully your install can go easier than mine. I bought my seats used from another member and the power control connector was already plugged into the seat. The connector tab was really bent and creased over, and so I didn't want to remove it and risk it not being able to clip fast and stay connected. Therefore I had to actually put the seat in the car and figure out a way to run the wire so it was nice and hidden under the carpet and the door sill.

If you have the harness available to be removed from the seat, I would recommend doing so as it will make your life much easier. Run your harness under the carpet or add wire to it to make it longer so that you may do so. The blue is the hot wire while the black is ground.





Strip the ends as you would do in order to make an electrical extension/connection.



I added a butt connector here after sliding shrink wrapping over the wire.



Then I added wire to both the ground and hot wire by taking the wire roll and unraveling it up to the fuse box either for the ground or the power, whichever wire we are talking about. I labeled the hot wire with a piece of tape since I used only one color wire for extensions. Now here is where I had to get crafty. My connector was on the edge of its life so I didn't want to risk breaking it while removing it and having it not be able to hold fast. So I took a piece of heater hose, ran the wires through it, and then ran the heater hose under the carpet and retrieved it through the door sill. To do this just gently pry up on your door sill, being very careful not to break tabs. Then unclip the carpet from the pinch weld.



Once you have the wires in the door sill, run them down under the carpet up to the fuse box. Strip your hot wire and crimp it to the butt connector that comes on the ATM Add-A-Fuse. Make sure you heat shrink and tape the connection.



I ran the ground to one of the bolts in the fuse panel. There are a lot to choose from. Strip the ground, add a ring terminal and bolt it up.

Congratulations! Now you've just successfully installed your OEM leather seats. Not only are they way more comfortable, but they look hella sick too :agreed:

Hopefully you got the seat bolt/rail covers from the person as well, since they help hide the ugly bolts and nuts. Add those over your seat rails. You should have one for the front outside and two for the rear inside and outside. The front inside does not have a cover.



Now enjoy!

 
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